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TPS, what a difference a fraction of an inch makes!
Posted 05 February 2002 - 07:45 AM
Posted 05 February 2002 - 10:53 AM
Posted 06 February 2002 - 06:35 PM
Posted 06 February 2002 - 09:44 PM
For most functions it doesnt matter WHERE THE SENSOR IS LOCATED.
The important one is the idle position lead. When the throttle is closed it will be no resitance, with it open a small amount it will be infinite.
This will effect alot of things, depending on how the computer is designed. My legacy would act funny with shifting, and it would jerk sometimes when coasting until I adjusted it.
First you have to figure out which wires control the "closed throttle" portion. Remove the sensor and measure it. Once you find the right one (on mine i think it was the first and last connector).
Now place a dime in between the throttle screw and the throttle. with this much space the sensor should NOT be active. running all the way through the throttle range should also have no effect. When the throttle rests against the screw with the dime removed it should be connected.
That is the correct way. The service manual probably specifies a certain feeler gauge to use but a dime is almost dead on.
Posted 07 February 2002 - 08:03 AM
And have fun!
Posted 07 February 2002 - 10:25 AM
Posted 07 February 2002 - 04:14 PM
Posted 08 February 2002 - 02:30 PM
Posted 08 February 2002 - 04:23 PM
just poking fun, no offense intended.
Posted 08 February 2002 - 11:39 PM
Posted 09 February 2002 - 08:30 PM
I'm trying to follow along. When you are testing the terminal, you're talking about on the sensor itself, not the wires/connector that snap onto it, right? The throttle stop screw and throttle stopper are on the other side of the block, opposite the TPS? What cleaning was necessary on the TPS? Does all this require you to open the TPS itself?
Thanks in advance,
Posted 09 February 2002 - 08:36 PM
Posted 10 February 2002 - 12:05 AM
As far as cleaning, no I did not take it apart. I took it off(watch the screws, I lost one to the great abyss underneath my intake manifold), and sprayed electronic cleaner into the small holes in the plastic it has. Then I sprayed some electronics compressed air duster in it to dry it out some, followed by a little bit of time. I then put it back on, and adjusted it properly. Hope that answered all yer questions.
Posted 10 February 2002 - 03:06 PM
Posted 10 February 2002 - 07:47 PM
For those without manuals:
Posted 11 February 2002 - 06:33 PM
If these are adjusted correctly when the car is new, and the idle screw hasnt changed how to do they get so far out of adjustment?
Posted 12 February 2002 - 08:30 AM
Posted 12 February 2002 - 01:39 PM
The resitance portion can vary wildly from part to part. The important thing is a steady increase/decrease when the sensor is moved.
Judging by the readings I took of all the different terminals it looks like the computer might be able to see total resistance and compare that to the reduced resistance the sensor is giving at a specific point. With the self tuning its able to pretty acuratly tell what percentage of WOT you are at.
Posted 12 February 2002 - 02:28 PM
The ECU must be able to translate where or how the TPS reacts or something....beats me
Posted 14 February 2002 - 12:17 PM
How do you know when your multimeter is reading infinate Ohms? I'm still learning this funky tool
Where do you put marks on to line it up when you want ot put the TPS back on after cleaning it?
Think I could do this in my 1 hour lunch break?
Posted 14 February 2002 - 01:37 PM
I'd suggest spending more then your hour lunch break. It would be VERY VERY close....and that would be if you knew exactly what you were doing.
Posted 15 February 2002 - 08:14 PM
The marks you can put where ever you want, they are for your future use so you can get it in the same place again. Actually Id suggest not marking it. Any time you remove it you should readjust anyways.
Posted 15 February 2002 - 11:36 PM
Posted 17 February 2002 - 12:51 AM
Posted 17 February 2002 - 02:19 AM
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