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Subaru going into the deep freeze!


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Hey everybody.

 

I've got an interesting topic here. Surely somebody can provide some insight.

 

My old boss at Delta Western, a petroleum company, needs to get a car to travel around in northern Canada/AK during the winter, including to Inuvik, which is the farthest-north town on the continent. Temperatures can go to 70 below on a regular basis, and villages are hundreds of miles apart with NOTHIHNG in between, and no traffic for days at a time. Emphasis on the fact that if the car breaks down, death is a possibility.

 

My recommendation for a car is a gen-1 legacy wagon. The EJ22 is pretty much bulletproof, even by subaru standards. Right now, we're looking for a car with less than 100k that's in decent shape. Once we find a car, I'm going to go through everything and make sure it's in perfect shape mechanically. I'm going to change all the oil over to synthetic, flush coolant and replace with a 75% mixture, replace all hoses and belts including the timing belt, flush the brake system and thoroughly inspect the hardware, put a skid plate under the oil pan, put on some snow tires, check out the CV axles, install heaters in the block, transmission, and battery, and go through all the electrical.

 

What other things should be addressed when I go through the car? Should I go to the trouble of replacing all the bearing grease with synthetic? Anything else I'm forgetting?

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Tires: I've heard stories from the North about tires developing ''flat-spots' in very cold weather. This happens if the car is parked in the cold, say overnight; the rubber 'freezes', and it takes a while for the flat-spots to 'thaw-out'.

 

 

Maybe some rubbers are designed for the cold, and avoid this phenomenom.

Anyone know?

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Temperatures can go to 70 below---8<---Anything else I'm forgetting?
Maybe recommend something for the human, too? Car could survive but useless without a driver. ;) One of those space blankets might be good, looks like foil.

Bbbrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!

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For sure you wanna pack some good wool blankets and lots of chocolate. A huge thermos to keep tea hot in, would also allow the driver to survive longer and hopefully be rescued, should the unthinkable happen.

 

 

I would like to second the battery suggestion. Consider rigging up a second, high capacity battery in the trunk. Preferably one that will provide current in those temperatures.

 

Replace the standard spare tyre with one (or two) of the same type as you intend to fit on the car. Make sure they are pumped to the right pressure.

 

 

Make sure you make a proper check-list of all your points, it would be dangerous to miss one out!

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A petroleum company can't afford a newer car than that? It seems crazy to start with an old car instead of a new one.

 

My friends in AK had a second battery they brought inside with them for the night. Then they brought it out in the AM to jumpstart the car.

 

But I think big pickups are the vehicle of choice up there, partly because of their fuel capacity, partly capability on very, very rough roads, and partly because everyone else has them.

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A petroleum company can't afford a newer car than that? It seems crazy to start with an old car instead of a new one.
I think the idea here is that he'd trust a vehicle - engine - that has proven its reliability (EJ22) better than a newer vehicle which might fail albeit new.

 

BTW have you thought of studded tires for additional traction in snow/ice?

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I definitly would be caring some extra fuel with me in case the car got stuck or something. What about some winch or a come along (if thees anything to hook it to) in case the car gets stuck, so you may be able to get it out.

 

Get some good wiper fluid, and wind whind shield wipers, it would suck to not to be able to see.

 

Which trannie would be better out there, i like the auto AWD drive system better, but how would the trannie fuid fare, compared to the manule in that cold of weather?

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Get an 05 Forester XS. That sould do it. Run synthtic everything. Keep the gas tank full (use that anti-water treatment) block heater, battery heater...butt heater. Keep it in a garage when possible. Some nice tire chains, road flares, signal flares, MRE's, lots or water, Extra clothes, blankets, maybe a cord or 2 of fire wood, a shovel, some road salt. A generator...LOL (if you get a small enough one) and a space heater. I would get some (4) of those magnetic LED signal flares from Sam's warehouse too. A nextel with GPS capabilities. A GPS so you can give someone you exact location...maybe even one of those Marine GPS homing beacons. (You activate it when you get into tough times and they last a long time)

 

 

Hope this helps.

 

I don't think you would have to worry about the radiator too much because the fans will only turn on when the engine reaches a certain temp, chances are you won't get there. I wold put in a new T. Stat with a higher opening point. Instaed of 185 perhaps 200. (or something along that line)

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Thanks for the suggestions! I'll pass them on.

 

Yes, high quality studded snow tires are a must. I run them on my car and I don't go farther north than Tok. Dual battery setup is a great idea that I didn't even consider and wouldn't be terribly hard to set up. The winch could be useful if there was a way to anchor it, but I think a lot of the terrain is completely treeless, and in places the road is actually a frozen lake. Two spare tires identical to the ones on the car could be a lifesaver. As far as the "flat-spots" mentioned, I think that was a problem with old bias-ply or radials designed for summer use. Something to look into nonetheless.

 

Transmission is kind of tough to decide on. Most people run automatics up there because the oil constantly circulates and is warmed when running, but I think with a proper plug-in heater and thinner synthetic oil a manual would do fine. They're also more dependable than an automatic.

 

Thanks again.

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Add in a small bag of self lighting charcoal and few bic lighters on stuff to carry in the back in case of emergencies...

 

I never experienced flat spots on tires in the Alaska cold.

 

An engine block heater would be good. I tried the coolant hose type for my son's car, and it didn't work very well. You can also buy a plug-in battery warmer.

 

Tiny

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I think that you should seriously question your boss's sanity at this time. Winter roads which service these communities are for transport trucks supplying the villages only. When people need to get in and out they fly. The trucks used in these areas are never turned off unless they are in a heated garage. Idling the engine overnight is the norm. They also use things like engine blankets and axle/transmission heaters. I live in northern manitba (nowhere NEAR as far north as Inuvik) and it gets as cold as -45 here, without the windchill. My '03 impreza ts has synthetic motor/gear oil and it is still not happy at these temperatures - even when it is warmed up fully. Even subies have their limits!

 

Yes, square tires DO develop at -45. They go away.

 

Just a point of interest for other motorheads: I cover my rad entirely with cardboard and platic with no hole whatsoever in the winter. I keep the fans unplugged, but I have never been able to get the temperature above normal. I've driven the car right up to springtime in lots of city traffic, but no luck. I only remove it out of nervousness. Wierd, eh?

 

Darryl

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"I think that you should seriously question your boss's sanity at this time."

 

:lol: I'll tell him you said that!

 

He's travelled around in northern Canada, but not that far north before that I know of. He always just left his truck (gas-powered F250) running the whole time, and I'd assume he'd do the same thing with a soob.

 

I think the Alcan Winter Rally goes up to Inuvik. If they can do it in similar vehicles, it shouldn't be insurmountable.

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And load up on the little single-AAA LED flashlights from WallyWorld. They're small enough to hold in your mouth when your hands are the only two you've got.

As long as they're plastic. You don't want to put anything metal in your mouth at -50F. I left half my tongue on a metal railing as a young paperboy in Minnesota. That crystal clear ice sure looked good.

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dual optima yellowtops would be elite!!! cause they are drycell (some consider them gel cells) instead of lead acid batts which means NO WATER :) and might even think of running ATF in the tranny even though I dunno how the center diff would take it unless are they sealed? but yeah think of the ATF thing cause I used to have a camry that had that for the manual tranny and a manual tranny would be better for reliability and oh yeah if a open diff in the back is used try the ATF thing on that too cause it is somewhat light but lubricates well

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