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Which oil filter?


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I have a 90 Legacy 2.2L. IT is a real pain to stop by the dealership to buy oil filters, due to location and operating hours. I know that OEM filters were a must on the sube's of the 80's. Does the same hold true for the Legacy engines of today? Anyone have problems using non-OEM filters? (Fram, Mobil, etc.)

 

It would be much easier and cheaper if "regular" filters can be used.

 

Thanks,

 

Rich

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Guest neuro optic

I have used Fram on mine, it now has 246,000 plus miles on it if that makes you feel any easier:) Filters are like oil for the most part as long as it is a name brand you should be set. Most of your discount auto chain's filter are made by the same company, just printed with their name.Free Advertising

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NEVER USE FRAM OIL FILTERS.

 

Even the genaric Knockoffs that fram makes for other people are better.

 

Try a Purolater for the best cheap filter I know of. It certainly is good enough for Subaru as they have purolater make thiers.

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Purolator makes the Subaru filter. I don't have the purolator number that matches the OEM filter, but you can find it in most auto parts stores.

 

You could also order a six pack of OEM filters from http://www.subaruparts.com (or equivelant) they cost the same or less than other filters at the local auto store, and come with a new drain plug washer, woo hoo:)

 

Sam.

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Well on my SHO I have had Two atleast where the filter medium colapsed. Quite noticable in fact as the motor kinda hesitates very suddenly and briefly. Then you notice the 10 HP or so that is missing over just a second ago. Then you take it in for a oil change and get your 10HP back. Then there was the time the filter gluded itelf to the motor. We managed to twist the end cap a FULL rotation while the base didn't move. Finaly we nailed a HUGE scredriver through the filter and got it off. Oh and it was installed corectly as I did it.

 

Then the fact that Most if not all SHO's that spin rod bearings do it with a Fram filter on. Teagues has noticed a Overwhelming majority of the motors in his core pile are fram equiped.

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Guest Stubaru

...who's a real filterhead who did his own thorough but unscientific analysis of several filters available on the market (I don't remember the URL). He found, from disecting and analyzing them, that the Frams were pretty cheesy inside. So the opinions on this thread may very well be true. I used to sell oil and filters years ago and the filters were made by Fram and private-branded. I remember seeing boxes of "rejected" ones, but that was mostly due to bad threads, not bad filter media. Remember: by law (Magnuson-Moss Act) you can use any filter approved for your application and maintain your factory warranty. But, if the filter causes an engine problem, you'll have to go after the filter manufacturer (and/or installer) to recoup the costs of fixing the car. Very compelling reason to use the Subaru filters for at least the first 60K miles.

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Guest SmashPDX

I have the URL but it's at home. I'll post a link. It *IS* informative.

 

If the aftermarket Purolator oil filter that belongs to you car is the Purolator Premium Plus SL14460, I've got bad news for anyone considering Frams and such: there are only TWO filters that are "right":

 

- The Premium Plus SL14460, OR

- The genuine Subie part (which is a Purolator premium plus with, as best as we can figure, something a lot heavier inside).

 

Many aftermarket guides list themselves as having filters that are straight-swap for the Subie part. However, the Purolator part that they then cross-reference to is the SL14459. The 14459 and the 14460 have a different intake plate design and I believe they use a different backflow prevention design. I checked Fram, Purolator, Mobil, and everything else I saw in Pep Boys (ya, I took 'em out of the boxes) and *all* of the non-Purolator "equivalents" were actually parallels to the 14459, not the 14460. Even more annoying is that Purolator doesn't have a PureOne (nice submicronic filter) in the 14460 design.

 

Why does all this matter? I only understand parts of it. I can tell you that every 14459-equivalent filter I've ever used has left me with lifter ticking in my '95 Legacy (EJ22 engine), including the PureOne L14459. Does the lifter ticking matter in terms of doing something bad to the engine? Don't know, not skilled enough over here to tell. Does it matter in some other way? Same thing, don't know. Would love to hear from someone skilled who does.

 

But now on to my real point-- if your car is one that takes the SL14460, get the Subie part. Hold a Purolator aftermarket in one hand and the Subie part in the other-- the Subie part is heavier. Best as I can figure Puro has tweaked that thing a bit for Subaru, probably has metal instead of paper end caps, probably has the submicronic filter inside that is in the aftermarket PureOne. That's the running theory from those of us who tried to figure it out.

 

It would be REALLY nice if someone on the board who understands these things would be willing to take apart a Premium Plus and a Subie Purolator and tell us what the differences are based on the internals...

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Guest kevinsUBARU

On the next oil change, why doesnt someone take a hack say and show it whos boss :) Or better yet, why dont we take up a collection and "save" for a BN one so we dont have to deal with the oil stuff!?!?

 

Kevin

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Guest subibertie

Subi oil filters have a one way valve built into them. This means that when you turn the engine off, instead of all the oil sinking down into the sump, more oil gets retained in the engine to coat the moving parts. That way, when you first start the engine the parts are not running as dry for the first seconds - should prolong the life of the engine. I've both read this from another message board and got it directly from Subaru. Although some non-original filters makers are making them with one way valves, they may not necessarily provide the right flow rates. I plan to stick with original Subi parts. The price difference really isn't that big, especially of you buy them from subaruparts.com.

 

Stefano

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Guest SmashPDX

Ok guys,

 

The site in question is maintained by Russ Knize and it has recently moved. Anyway, here are the three URLs you care about:

 

Engine oil overview: members.nbci.com/minimopar/oil.html

 

Oil Filters Overview (subjective analysis): members.nbci.com/minimopa...lters.html

 

Oil Filters Study (he cut 'em open): members.nbci.com/minimopa...study.html

 

Ditto that Stefano, the only reason I ever wanted an aftermarket filter was to get at the Purolator PureOne submicronic. But since the backflow valve is designed differently, well, end of convo. I figure if I ever get sick of going to the dealer I can just buy a few of 'em at a time or order them or... anyway, it's no big deal and I like the Subiefilter anyway.

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Thats some great information! I was always under the impression that Fleetguard made filters for Everything! They may indeed, but who would have thought specs would change so much - anything to squeeze profit, I guess. That was a great filter page link. Staying away from Fram! I ended up with a Castrol filter for the car, but haven't installed it yet. I will have to inspect it a little more. I may end up going to the dealer after all. I expect to get another 200K from it before retiring it to pasture, so I better treat it right!

 

Thanks for all of the good info. Especially the link to the oil and filter page. I have always used Pennzoil, so good to see that his engine wasn't badly worn from it.

 

Rich

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Guest EQUALIZERplus

Teflon, arguably PTFE, was warned against its use. However, I tested a product claiming to contain 50% more PTFE than slick 50, made by CD-2. I stocked up on it. WHY? Because my 83 GL got a few more mpg when I used it as opposed to when I did not. The additive is only half of a quart, so I don't think it was due to a thinner grade base oil that gave it the better mileage. The white ptfe was so fine that it felt and appeared as a thicker liquid at the bottom of the can. I shake the can well before adding it to put it in suspension. Does the filter paper filter it out? Would be a good experiment and would require the same pressure behind the filter that is in the car to truly test it I think. I never had any problems with it. No engine overheating from restricted flow showing up on my temp gauge. Only other problem I can dream of, (help me out motorheads), is if the PTFE gets into the combustion chamber, plates a couple of microns thick and flakes off. What's the worst that could happen?

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Guest EQUALIZERplus

Forgot to add that the temp gauge on my old 83 showed that the engine ran cooler when I used the PTFE. I don't know why since I thought that the thermostat is supposed to keep engine temp constant. I'm no mechanic, but one things fur sure is that it didn't clog up the radiator. Didn't use it there. ;)

 

Haven't noticed my 97 OB running any cooler with the same stuff. btw, The 83 gl went over 280,000mi with no engine problems, at least none that could be related. I've heard that PTFE comes in different grades. The best grades are super fine and are suposed to fill the pores of metal and plate as the metal heats up. That's one thing I'm a little skeptical about. I am guessing that any surface w/a lubricant on it is going to be mighty hard to plate to.

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