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Speedometer and Odometer dump + codes


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5 replies to this topic

#1 Brass

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 08:29 AM

Hello everyone:
My 92 Legacy, front drive, 2.2 is giving me a fit. The speedometer and odometer suddenly quit and the check engine light came on at the same time.
I ran the OBD flash test and rcvd codes 13 and 33, (cam angle sensor and speed sensor).
Any ideas? Cable bad? Would a bad cable make the computer generate these codes also? Your help is much appreciated.
Marty

#2 Legacy777

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 11:40 AM

Do you have an auto tranny?

If so, the base cable piece probably broke. It's relatively common. I replaced mine a while ago. It's not hard, and the piece isn't expensive. You need to make sure to get the old washer and rubber piece out when you replace the piece.

here's a pic
http://www.main.expe...docablebase.jpg

#3 Brass

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 01:33 PM

Do you have an auto tranny?

If so, the base cable piece probably broke. It's relatively common. I replaced mine a while ago. It's not hard, and the piece isn't expensive. You need to make sure to get the old washer and rubber piece out when you replace the piece.

here's a pic
http://www.main.expe...docablebase.jpg


Yes I have an auto trans., in fact jus had it rebuilt 2 months ago.
Do you think the base cable piece is also making the computer generate these codes? Seems to odd that all these related troubles would pop up at the exact same moment???
Thanks,
Marty

#4 Legacy777

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Posted 25 October 2004 - 09:18 PM

i replied to your pm, but so everyone has the benefit of following the problem and hopefully resolution, here's my reply

The speed sensor is tied into the speedometer. The odometer and speedometer are all driven by the same cable. So yes, it doesn't surprise me at all. The cam or crank code that was there may be a fluke. I'd fix the speedo issue, drive the car, and then check the codes to see if it comes back.

The no speedo issure will also mess with how the transmission shifts. The TC will not lockup and the radiator fans will be on constantly.

Follow the cable down to the transmission to find that base piece. Take the cable out of the piece, stick it in a drill and see if you can make the speedo move. If you can, the cable is good, and more then likely it's the base piece. Once you take it off, you should be able to tell right away if it's bad or not.

#5 Brass

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 07:11 PM

Well Josh, you are sure up on these things. I took off the cable at the base where it goes into the trans. The cable looked good but the inner coil came out of the outer sheath, both ends still had good square tips and was still lubed. I gave it going over with some silicone grease for good measure and ran it back into the sheath. I was upset when the speedo did not read with a drill on it. Then I realized that I needed to run the drill CC, counter clockwise and it worked fine. A 17mm deep socket easily removed the base. The inner tang/spindle had worn in half and was obviously shot. I did have to pick out the lower seal and metal washer from the hole. Used a vac cleaner to suck out the dust and worn bushing material. Screwed in the new base ( $15.00 at the dealer), attached the cable and away we went. Good speedo & odom readings, no bounce on the needle and all the codes are clear, fans quiet and the check eng. light is off! I am very happy. 194K and humming.
Thank you for your guidance, Brass. :)

#6 Legacy777

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Posted 26 October 2004 - 09:14 PM

You're very welcome! Glad it worked.

Only other thing I might suggest doing is resetting the ECU. The learning maps can be more heavily altered by negative things, like sensor error codes and other stuff, so you may want to reset the ECU to clear those things from the learning maps. It's entirely up to you.

If you do, pull fuse 14 EGI/TCU for 30 min. I'm pretty sure it's fuse 14, but just verify it says EGI/TCU.




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