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ea81 4speed conversion to ea82 5speed
Posted 25 October 2004 - 08:32 PM
84 hatch with ea81 also have 87 wagon with ea82 Has any one done a conversion I have talked to a couple of subaru mechs they say that you cant do it because of the diffrence in the motor width and weight so my next thought was to exchange the whole front clip anyone anyone
If I do this IS THER REALLY AN ADVANTAGE
Posted 25 October 2004 - 11:17 PM
Posted 26 October 2004 - 12:13 AM
The only problem with it, is that after X amount of time, results from previous searches (searchids) are purged. Being a mod, you should know that. :-p heh
Please skim this search result. This topic has been discussed numerous times.
mtnman38: Try searching for "5 speed swap" within this forum. You'll find plenty of results.
Posted 26 October 2004 - 10:14 AM
psssshhhhhh, it'll fit.
Posted 26 October 2004 - 04:39 PM
Hey 38 This is Jerry, you want to install a 5 speed dual range tranny in your 84 hatch back. YES you can do it, i have done 6 of them. I am also the guy that makes the 5 speed kit. With this kit everything is stock looking inside of the cab. If you want a kit let me know Thanks Jerry
hey jerry thanks for the info but what I really want to do is switch the whole thing (ea81 for ea82 ohc 4 speedfor 5 speed) and possibly the whole front clip heard anything about this or maybee done it your self I have both cars on site so all the parts are here just need more info thanks man
Posted 26 October 2004 - 08:40 PM
engine, and do a re-seal on it. Same, or close to doing the swap.
This is on/in an '82 BRAT, which still has the D/R 4 Spd tranny.
Upon re-installing the engine, I found that the disty should be left out, and re-installed afterwards.
The Hill-Holder, (ifin you have one), should be moved rearwards the distance of the mounting holes for it. And you need to tweak the front most lines on the Master Cylinder. Being very carefull, not to kink them....
(edited in)> Or, you can use another "T" block and just remove the HH completely. Be sure to fab a bracket to secure the "T's" if you do this.
The wires to the disty need to be lengthened, or you will need to
move the coil to the Driver's side of the engine. That involves more wiring mods, than just lenghtening the disty wires.
Upon installing the engine, you'll want to leave the motor mounts
loose at the engine block. This will help to get the studs into the slots in the crosmember. You can then tighten the mounts to the engine. Before you tighten the mounts to the crossmember, be sure to check that the engine is centered between the frame-rails. It will be close, not much more than a 1/4" per side.
The Vacuum Advance unit on the Disty will hit the Master Cylinder, if you try to go past halfway of the slot for the lock-down bolt. This really doesn't seem to be of any concern, as mine is still in the forward half of the slot. I'm setting Ignition timing by ear, due to the next paragraph... (edited in)> Has been stated that the Auto trans Master Cylinder is shorter, I don't know for sure...
Please, save yourself, and/or the next owner some headaches. Use the EA-82's flywheel!!!! It has the T-belt timing marks, and the
Ignition timing marks are not in the same position, either. You can transfer the marks over to the EA-81 flywheel, But Why??!?!?? Just use the EA-81's clutch disc, pilot and throw-out bearing, ifin you're using the 4 Spd, while using the EA-82's flywheel and
My radiator support has been re-drilled to fit the EA-82's
radiator's upper mounting points. Other than that, the hoses, and
thermo-switch for the fan(s) are the same. The radiator cap, appears to be in a different locale, but it ain't no biggy. The radiator hoses are trimmed to fit their respective runs.... (edited in)>
There is, a difference in the bottom mount points for the EA-82
radiator, but the holes can be drilled into the radiator support to match.
Ifin you have the waterpump mounted fan on your EA-82, you may want to leave it off. There is only 1/4" to 3/8" between it and the radiator. Makes me nervous!!!!!!
The originator of this swap in my BRAT, shortened the housing for
the accelerator cable, then lengthened the cable itself. Why, I
don't know. Made the Weber swap that much more fun. NOT!!!
As for going with a SPFI?MPFI set-up, you'll need to swap-out the
fuel pumps, and the front filter. Best really to re-run all fuel
lines too, as the FI system is higher pressure than carbed.
Best to have "donor vehicle" near you. You will need to pull the ECU and it's wiring from it. My take on this would be to start at the ECU end of the FI harness, and disect the wires out for the ECU. Make sure to tag what goes where, makes life more enjoyable upon installation. This will allow the other systems of the vehicle to operate off the original wiring, and the engine off it's own. Will make for easier trouble-shooting in the future.
If you're using the 5spd tranny, the mounts/crossmember for it is
different than the 4spd one. Jerry (bratsrus1) makes a kit for installing it. His kit reworks the 2 mounts/crossmembers into one, and reworks the shifters so they look stock.
Think that about covers it...............Whew!!!
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