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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Tightening the handbrake in a legacy

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6 replies to this topic

#1 Bkillazrallying


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Posted 26 October 2004 - 08:59 PM

Ok, i do a lot of handbrake turning, because i get very bored.
My handbrake is now so weak that I can't park on a hill, because it wont hold it, unless i pull it so far up its about to break off.

I checked the brake pads and what not, and they are all in perfectly fine shape still.

So i was wondering, is it possible (and if so how) to tighten the handbrake mechanism so that it would apply more pressure when pulled up less distance?

ok reading over that i realize it might not make sense, but if you understand what I'm saying, please help haha thanks.

Oh, btw, its a 93 legacy l awd if that helps any.

#2 who1981


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Posted 26 October 2004 - 09:14 PM

Hmm I never had much luck handbreak-turning my Leg AWD... (and it's kinda hard on stuff)... More fun power sliding! and spinning in snowy parking lots.

But to tighten the HB, undo about 5 screws that are holding the center consol (around the HB lever) and take it up. you should see some cables under there, and an adjustment... adjust it. and there you have it. easy...

have fun, don't die.

#3 Setright


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Posted 26 October 2004 - 11:50 PM

Who1981 describes the method for taking up slack in the handbrake cable. This will work, to some extent.

You checked the pads? The handbrake uses internal shoes! Yep, those discs are hiding a small drum brake inside them. The shoes are probably worn. The shoe clearance can also be adjusted through the drum backplate.

Locking one set of wheels on permanent four-wheel-drive cars is not a good idea. Your transmission suffers.

#4 Bkillazrallying


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Posted 27 October 2004 - 05:57 AM

I only do the turns with the clutch in, because I know how bad it is for permanent awd cars.

I didn't know however that the parking brake was its own set of drums, I just check the back disc brake pads. Tho it does squeak sometimes now, so that might explain it (or its the dirt in the brakes... or its something completely different...)

I approach the turn at whatever speed (60-70 is always fun but usually more in the 40-50mph range, I dont want to die young...) and then clutch in about 50 feet in front of the turn point, shift into 2nd or 3rd (depending on speed) rip the handbrake at the right time, and voila, the back end spins and halfway out, I rev it and drop the clutch. Real sharp turn, real fast... lots of fun. Always.
And yes, power sliding is fun too haha

Thanks for the information, now hopefully we can get this **** tightened up...

#5 Setright


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Posted 27 October 2004 - 10:05 AM

Sorry man, the transmission is still gonna be screwed. All four wheels need to rotate together, with only a few percent speed difference front-to-rear, or the Limited Slip center diff will die a premature death.

De-clutching only release the engine from the gearbox, not the gearbox from the wheels.

Try running 10% higher pressure in your front tyres, entering a ninety-degree street corner at 40mph in second gear, on the gas. Step off the gas aprubtly and feel the tail slide, without smashing your center diff!

Alternatively, try approaching the same corner at 50mph, stand on the brakes hard as you turn the steering wheels and then planting the throttle in the carpet.

If you want oversteer in general, fit a harder rear sway bar or stiffer springs in the rear only.

#6 Subie Gal

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Posted 27 October 2004 - 12:25 PM

clutch in - clutch out makes no difference.
it is not the clutch you are destroying, but the viscious center differential.

the center diff doesnt care if the clutch is in, or out.
it's job is to keep the rear wheels moving...
and you're burning it up every single time you ebrake whilst in motion.

it's not a cheap $$$$ part to fix.....

#7 Bkillazrallying


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Posted 27 October 2004 - 08:58 PM

hmmm good point on the clutch not mattering... now to get some more cash so i can buy a stiffer sway bar or springs...

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