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Loyale Problems- Instruments acting wierd and Rear End Seizes


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7 replies to this topic

#1 sregor13

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 01:39 AM

I have to tranport my newborn baby girl and my only running car is experiencing several problems of concern.
1. The Oil Pressure Gauge the Voltometer and the Thermostat all work intermittently. They did not work at all for ahwhile and then I lost the Fuel Gauge as well. So I bought and new Panel from another Loyale and tried to install it for troubleshooting. It was from a non turbo and wierd things were happening. So I put the old one back in. The gauges worked fine. I thought great! Then I was driving down the road a few days later and I noticed the Voltometer dropping below 12V (I watch this alot after driving Subaru's for years in the Winter) Then all the sudden I lost three of the four Gauges on my Instrument Panel. After ahwhile they all began to work again. But I see them drop in and out. The Gas Gauge has yet to go, but as was the case last time, it went out last) . This would be a problem! So, another thing going on that may be related is the Fact that the Car will not start by turning the key. I must first turn the Key and then Jump the car from the starter ( I do this by touching the Positive Lead on the Starter to the Male Spade coming off the Starter with a SCrewdriver. (I am going to try to rectify that problem by replacing the Starter) What I don't understand is why the starter will start the Car this way, but it wont start by turning the Key) So I imagine it is the solenoid or some like component of the Starter. My Subaru Book does not make reference to a Solenoid. But if my Chevy was doing this I would think it was the Solenoid. The reason I metion the Starter is in case the Electrical Issues are related. So any thoughts on either or those issues or collectively on both would be much appreciated.

2. This next one is a real chump stumper. The car appears to sieze up in the rear end after driving for about 30-45 Miles. You will be driving and then you can feel it getting tight in the rear end. If you go around a turn you can the back wheel just screeching and locking up. This car is a Full Time 4x4 and has had the rear end replaced by the previous owner once already for this problem. Their is not a Mechanic in town that can figure it out. Clues- My mechanic pointed out that the previous owner had 4 tires of Various Sizes, and we all know that is a bad thing. We immediatly put on a set of 4 Equally Sized Tires. My mechanic then took it for spin until it acted up. He hit each wheel with his Temperature Gun to see if it might be Hub in the back or possibly the Front. All 4 Wheels had the same temp, so we ruled out the hubs. We thought it might in the Front or Rear Differential. He claims to have looked at the rear differential and found nothing out of the ordinary. We have taken out the Fuse thats keeps it in 4x4 Mode and it seems to have the same problems, in FWD as well. So I am at a loss for these two maladies.

One looming issues is that I cant get this fixed and it is the only running car we have with our Newborn Girl. Noone in this two horse town knows Subies. My mechanic has a Computer Program that has schematics and stuff for cars. He can not find the info for the Fulltime 4wd Loyale. Does this sound like a differential problem or a Transmission Problem? So I realize this is very long post and I apologize in advance for rambling. However, I rest assured in the fact that this is the best, and my only resource for Subaru knowledge. I will beg, barter, or downright pay cash for a solution to these issues among others that are keeping my family from the good life. So anyway the Car is a 90 Loyale Wagon with Full Time 4WD. VIN Number JF2AN57BXLH401976. Any INFO would be helpful. Thanks, Gabriel

#2 NorthWet

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 01:55 AM

The starter: I do not think that your starting problem is the starter. Your running power to the starter's solenoid wiring (via spade connector) shows that the starter is working much as it should. The wiring diagram I have shows nothing but connectors (no relays, solenoids, etc) between ignition switch and starter spade terminal.

Sounds like connector issues, maybe starter switch.

The instrument panel problem also sounds like connector/power/ground issues.

I'll let others advise you about the FT4WD issues, but it sounds like center diff binding. And it was my belief that the FWD-fuse was normally NOT in its holder, and is placed into the holder to put the car in FWD mode.

Congrats on the baby!

#3 sregor13

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 02:11 AM

The starter: I do not think that your starting problem is the starter. Your running power to the starter's solenoid wiring (via spade connector) shows that the starter is working much as it should. The wiring diagram I have shows nothing but connectors (no relays, solenoids, etc) between ignition switch and starter spade terminal.

Sounds like connector issues, maybe starter switch.

The instrument panel problem also sounds like connector/power/ground issues.

I'll let others advise you about the FT4WD issues, but it sounds like center diff binding. And it was my belief that the FWD-fuse was normally NOT in its holder, and is placed into the holder to put the car in FWD mode.

Congrats on the baby!

Okay thanks for the reply. I got the Fuse mixed up, you are right. I put a fuse in to engage the FWD. Also, the Female Spade Connector is not currently hooked up to the Starters Male Spade Connector. However, when it is connected the Starter Ocassionally works and sometimes it does not. So where is the Starter Switch Loacted? Also where is the Center Diff? Is that something different than the Front and Rear Diffs? Thanks again.

#4 NorthWet

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 02:23 AM

Okay thanks for the reply. I got the Fuse mixed up, you are right. I put a fuse in to engage the FWD. Also, the Female Spade Connector is not currently hooked up to the Starters Male Spade Connector. However, when it is connected the Starter Ocassionally works and sometimes it does not. So where is the Starter Switch Loacted? Also where is the Center Diff? Is that something different than the Front and Rear Diffs? Thanks again.

No starter switch, just the ignition switch, when you turn the key to Start.

The center diff is integral with the tranny. Can't remember what has been said about the AT's center diff on FT4WD trannies, but I think that it uses an electro/hydraulic actuated clutch-pack. The clutch pack and/or actuator sometimes have problems that require repair (not cheap, from what I have heard). You can try searching on "binding" or maybe "Duty Solenoid C" (I think these are both applicable).

Good luck.

#5 sregor13

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 02:27 AM

No starter switch, just the ignition switch, when you turn the key to Start.

The center diff is integral with the tranny. Can't remember what has been said about the AT's center diff on FT4WD trannies, but I think that it uses an electro/hydraulic actuated clutch-pack. The clutch pack and/or actuator sometimes have problems that require repair (not cheap, from what I have heard). You can try searching on "binding" or maybe "Duty Solenoid C" (I think these are both applicable).

Good luck.


I paid $200 for this car with 118000 Miles on it. Do you think it is worth it to fix all these problems or part it out. Also, not mentioned it the fact that oil recently began pouring out of the Front below the Fuel Pump I think. It is a Turbo which is appealing but, Loyale's have very little options, Where are the rear Speakers and the Map Lights. Can you say Basic? Thanks again

#6 NorthWet

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 02:42 AM

I paid $200 for this car with 118000 Miles on it. Do you think it is worth it to fix all these problems or part it out. Also, not mentioned it the fact that oil recently began pouring out of the Front below the Fuel Pump I think. It is a Turbo which is appealing but, Loyale's have very little options, Where are the rear Speakers and the Map Lights. Can you say Basic? Thanks again

For me, YES, it is worth fixing. But then, I do all of my own wrenching. And have learned some ways to get economical parts. Your kind of in a spot as it is your sole car...

If the center diff is the problem and is too expensive to repair, you could get a used tranny. I was lucky enough to pick up a 4-speed FT4WD (4EAT) tranny for $75. A JDM (Japanese used import) tranny might be had for $400-500 (not sure). There are also ways to make the car FWD to lengthen the time you have to decide to repair or sell. (Remove one or both rear axleshafts, for instance)

I just got my '90 Loyale, and yes, I noticed that it lacks stuff that my other Subarus have. The Loyale is basically the same car, just much more plain. I was thinking about this recently, and I think that they dressed-down the Loyales so that they were the budget vehicle compared to the new Legacy. But I have the parts to upgrade mine, thanks to a parts car. Mine has the turbo (rare-ish in Loyales) and map lights, but no remote adjust mirrors. Cheap armrests, no split-back rear seat. Just seems cheaply optioned.

#7 Numbchux

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Posted 01 November 2004 - 01:13 PM

the starter problem is a somewhat common problem, and I would agree, it's not your starter, it's somewhere in between, check out this link, there are a ton of suggestions there -> http://xt6.net/forum...pic.php?t=2686

#8 sregor13

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Posted 08 November 2004 - 02:31 AM

the starter problem is a somewhat common problem, and I would agree, it's not your starter, it's somewhere in between, check out this link, there are a ton of suggestions there -> http://xt6.net/forum...pic.php?t=2686



Numbchux and Northwet, You have been alot of help thus far with the diagnoses of this car. Today, I changed the starter from a 87 GL10 Wagon Manual. Which is the not the right starter, but I thought it might work. Well I learned the proper way to take off a starter. When I went to take the starter of the 87 I took the wrong bolts of and slowly removed the starter peice by peice. I disregarded my better instincts and went by the instructions in Chilton's. Bad Idea.. So anyways I got the starter put back together and put it on my 90 Loyale Turbo w/ Auto. I tried the key and it did not start. No surprise. But then I did my typical Screwdriver start (jump the starter from the solenoid) and it did start. I thought, that since I have changed the Ignition Switch and I have changed the starter, then perhaps my problem is in the Ignition coil. But it was getting dark and cold so I monkeyed around with the Ignition coil for just a moment and then ruled it futile due to the fact that I was cold and dark and I was hungry.
All that being said I then got into the Car and started it with the key. Thats right,it has succesfully started about 8 times from the Key. I dont know what changed. Perhaps it was the starter? Perhaps it was something else... I dont know. When I initially started this afternoon project I assumed it was the Magnetic Coil in the starter that was bad, perhaps that is the case. Thanks for your help on this one and I hope that the particular problem does not return.




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