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AC retrofit to R134a
Posted 16 October 2002 - 06:35 PM
Aprox cost, steps, who can do? If I can do myself, where to get supplies. Probably heard this before, never lookied into it.
Posted 16 October 2002 - 07:19 PM
Posted 16 October 2002 - 08:29 PM
Posted 16 October 2002 - 08:38 PM
Posted 16 October 2002 - 09:26 PM
To get the old refrigerant out- I just opened up my AC system and let it fly. Sssssshhhh- don't tell anyone though, it's illegal to do that. I'm not sure of the *proper* way to get rid of it- ask a shop.
Posted 16 October 2002 - 09:53 PM
Noah DL 88 Wagon
D/R 3" lift
Posted 16 October 2002 - 10:16 PM
If you replace any hoses, get barrier hoses. New hoses for R-12 will leak R-134a because the R-134a is a smaller molecule than the R-12. That's also why the seals should be changed. If the hoses are not in need of replacement and have been used for a long time with R-12, they will work fine for R-134a. The mineral oil has built up its own barrier that will not allow the new refrigerant to leak out. Also, some shops have recovery equipment to suck out the old R-12, which is much better then just "cracking a line and letting it go". Also, it's best to have the system evacuated before charging with R-134a to remove any moisture or air left in the system. Evacuating holds a 27 in.. Hg. vacuum on the system for a min. of 30 minutes. It's also a good way to see if your system leaks. I think I wrote enough. I hope this helps.
Posted 17 October 2002 - 11:20 AM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 12:22 AM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 12:59 AM
For my 82 wagon, I just picked up a retrofit kit at Advance Auto Parts. my system was already empty of the old gas because of a bad compressor. I put in a used compressor, and put one adapter fitting on. (low side). Kit did not contain the proper adapter for the high side, but you don't need it to charge.
I followed the directions and it took just 2 cans to get ice cold AC.
There weren't any AC shops in town that would even touch my car for the AC retrofit.....
Posted 18 October 2002 - 07:08 AM
The reason I don't do it myself is because on a retrofit, the system really should be evacuated and cleaned out well, and you need specialized equipment to do this. Also, you dont want to fool around with the seals and adapters mentioned above more than once. A good shop will get it right the first time with no leaks.
Also, I should mention that there is a new refrigerent out that is totally compatible with the old r12 systems, and safe for the ozone. My guys mentioned it to me when I took my 93 Loyale in for a retrofit, so I thought I would try it out. Overall, I was a little disapointed. It doesn't seem cold enough, and it was also more expensive than r134. I'd like to try it again before condemning it though. It may just be a blower/venting problem on this particular vehicle.
good luck, John
Posted 18 October 2002 - 08:12 AM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 09:18 AM
I concur with several others here, who've done the quick retrofit using the R134a kit from Walmart or elsewhere. Did our '86 GL 4x4 wagon a couple years ago, never had any leaks, and it has the coldest A/C of any of our cars -- usually puts out 36 - 38 F air at the center outlet, and that's on hot days -- simply amazing.
And as already mentioned, you don't really need the high-side fitting, so if your kit doesn't include it, don't sweat it. But *do* make sure you read instructions carefully and fill from the low side, only. If in doubt as to which side is the low side, get some qualified advice -- don't take a chance.
When you add the refrigerant, do it in small stages as you measure the temperature coming out of the dash outlet. Let the engine run for about five minutes between doses of refrigerant. Just add enough to get the temperature low (35 to 45 degrees F). Don't add too much. If you add too much, the temperature will start rising again.
I purged a bit of the refrigerant from the high pressure valve with the engine off, when I got too much in, but I had a thick glove on and was in a well-ventilated area. I also protected other engine parts by covering them with lots of towels.
That was my brute-force way to do the conversion, not as elegant as using gauges, but it worked for me. (I might have taken it in to a pro, but we live so far out in the country that it was just easier for me to do it myself.) Your mileage may vary... Later, Rick
Posted 18 October 2002 - 12:13 PM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 12:34 PM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 02:32 PM
kind of getting cool here now, but come spring, I will deffinately. Ditto on knowing what the high side is. Never made the misteak, but making the error could be very hazardous when the little can in you hand blows up!
Did some if this years ago when you could get ther12. Still have a kit or 2 in the shed. (No r12.) I even had made a makeshift vacuum system to evacuate the system prior to recharging. That's gone, but sure could remake.
Posted 18 October 2002 - 03:01 PM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 03:15 PM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 03:55 PM
Posted 18 October 2002 - 08:14 PM
...and keeps the compressor bearings from brinelling from the constant vibration in the same spot while driving (years ago, when mfgrs. first started having the compressor run in defrost mode, the bearing brinelling was the main reason that I heard for them doing it).
Posted 18 October 2002 - 08:20 PM
Posted 19 October 2002 - 12:16 AM
Posted 19 October 2002 - 05:21 PM
One thing I did find out about over pressurizing/filling a Justy...The dryer has a lead plug that if over filled, will blow to release pressure before damage occurs to the compressor or other parts. Only thing is, though, once the plug blows, ALL the pressure leaks out. I sold the car without replacing the dryer but the buyer epoxied the hole where the lead plug was and had it checked and refilled....works great!!
Posted 19 October 2002 - 06:24 PM
Only thing though, if you do spring a leak, dont get the mist in your eyes because it burns like a bizzznach:) Also, if you get the R134A on your hands, it has a lot of oil in it, so its hard to clean off.
Posted 19 October 2002 - 07:06 PM
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