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Replacing anti-freeze without air locking (don't tell the EPA).


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Here's how I've always done, even before I knew Subarus COULD air lock.

 

Take off radiator cap. Insert hose with water running and engine idling. Open drain cock and adjust hose water flow so they are equal. Allow car to idle with water running thru it until it comes out clear (I usually let it go for ten minutes or so so it flushes too).

 

Close the cock and remove the water hose, turn off engine.

 

Open the drain cock just a teenie little bit and drizzle in the anti-freeze until the jug is empty.

 

Close drain cock and replace radiator cap. Idle engine a few minutes to mix the anti-feeze ('cause it's all on the top, right).

 

Never lets any air into the engine.

 

Oh yeah, don't do this when the cat is around and make sure you dilute any anti-freeze left lying about in puddles (actually it will be diluted so as to be almost non-existant)... and don't tell the EPA.

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umm yah ima newbie whats airlocking?!

 

cause after I did my engine swap my engine doesnt run right once it warms up it loses power then gets it back then loses its quite odd I thought maybe something in the coolent system was cracked or leaking but cant find any clues was thinking it was a fuel problem but I used that seafoam stuff but that didnt make a difference could this be caused by airlocking?

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umm yah ima newbie whats airlocking?!

 

cause after I did my engine swap my engine doesnt run right once it warms up it loses power then gets it back then loses its quite odd I thought maybe something in the coolent system was cracked or leaking but cant find any clues was thinking it was a fuel problem but I used that seafoam stuff but that didnt make a difference could this be caused by airlocking?

Unlikely.

 

The "air locking" is getting an air bubble stuck in the engine, a problem with some subes, especiially the EJs from what I hear.

 

Your problem sounds more fuel filter/pump or ignition (coil, probably) related. You need to give more info about car/engine and the problem for much better advice. (And there is much better advice than mine! :lol: )

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Unlikely.

 

The "air locking" is getting an air bubble stuck in the engine, a problem with some subes, especiially the EJs from what I hear.

 

Your problem sounds more fuel filter/pump or ignition (coil, probably) related. You need to give more info about car/engine and the problem for much better advice. (And there is much better advice than mine! :lol: )

I gave more info in another post just didnt feel like typing it all umm its an ej18 from a 94 wagon and now it is in a 93 sedan the sedan sat for about a year or 2 with very little gas in it so I thought cleaning everything with sea foam should work but it didnt or hasnt yet thought maybe flushing the radiator would change it cause i noticed it didnt do it when the engine was cold only when it got up to normal temps a friend thought maybe its cause my gas was getting to hot but I dont see how that could happen I do not know what more info you need but Ill answer any questions you got about it :D

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I don't think this method will actually flush the engine block. Pouring cold water in continuosly will mean that the thermostat never opens, and the coolant in the engine block will circulate in a closed loop.

 

The radiator will clean, though, but tha's only half the coolant capacity. So pouring in 50/50 mix will give a final of 75/25, and therefore lower the heat capacity of the coolant.

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these days in many areas it is not a responsible method. In urban areas like mine the anti freeze ends up in the storm drains and so in our water.

Pets think it's great and lap it up and die.

I sure remember lots of folks doing this up in Maine when I was a kid. If it is warm when you start trickling the water the water will eventually come out clear.

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The early Montana transplants came to start Dental Floss Ranches ...

 

... Axshully, *I* moved the Hawaii, the Big Island; ya know Kona Gold, Puna Buttah, Maui Wowie, where I discovered, uhhh, Subarus, that's it, Subarus.

 

Montana came much, much later.

 

Someday, ( but not as long as we can still ski) we'll go back, prolly to Molokai.

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MtSmiths and all that replied - thanks. So if done as you say, with engine thoroughly warmed up prior to this procedure, the entire block (including the radiator of course) will be flushed? My only concern is that the 50% of the water in the system (I presume that the engine block will contina 1/2 of all the coolant mix) will be just plain tap water from the hose, not the recommended distilled water. I think the only way to drain the whole system completely would be to drain the radiator through the petcock and the engine block through the two drain openings covered with nuts requiring hex wrench. The size of the hex bit - is what I am trying to find out.

 

 

AK

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MtSmiths and all that replied - thanks. So if done as you say, with engine thoroughly warmed up prior to this procedure, the entire block (including the radiator of course) will be flushed? My only concern is that the 50% of the water in the system (I presume that the engine block will contina 1/2 of all the coolant mix) will be just plain tap water from the hose, not the recommended distilled water. I think the only way to drain the whole system completely would be to drain the radiator through the petcock and the engine block through the two drain openings covered with nuts requiring hex wrench. The size of the hex bit - is what I am trying to find out.

 

 

AK

Well, I've never in my life put anything but tap water and anti-freeze in an angine. I simply can't imagine that you need distilled water in your engine unless you've got REALLY crappy water at your tap ... but hey, I live in Montana! That said, if the engine is warmed up and the hose is running at a trickle (with matching outflow) the engine will be entirely flushed after a few minutes.

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like MT says and then drained the radiator from the petcock. Then you had a space where you could add about a gallon of water. You slowly poured that in and then ran it until it had circulated.Then you tested to see the specific gravity (how far below zero it was good for).

I have never used anything but tap water either, but MT and I are old guys from the last century.

By the way MT i still have a house in Maine and a place in Auckland. When I retire I am headed to New Zealand.

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WOW, that is tres kewel. I keep threatening to move to OZ when I retire in five years. Both OZ and NZ are really great places to fly, and there's SO much new stuff to see and experience. Monday I heard some really neat new NZ music, Maori chant to a Tahitian rhythem, and hapahaole Hawaiian instrumentation "Gardens of Eden", don't know the NZ group, tho'.

 

Alas, I fear that the Pretty One will insist that we return to Hawaii, where she was born and raised. We sold our Hawaii home last spring, and bought a house for our son on Oahu, and one for our daughter in LaLaLand. When they have built up some equity they'll buy us out and we'll rebuild for retirement. At least we have decided on Molokai, even the Big Island where we last lived (before Montana) has gotten TOO crowded.

 

You'll find plenty of strange and wonderful automobiles to play with in Kiwiland. Just remember to stay on the wrong side of the road.

 

But I'd really rather go waaaaay south (and I damnwell WILL if we have another election like THIS one!).

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times on the other side of the road. Kiwi is a land of interesting cars for sure. At this point I might take my BMW M Roadster over there but one can get much better Subarus there in my opinion.

But by the time I retire I might be hotrodding wheel chairs with Subaru WRX engines.

The Islands sure have gotten expensive in the last 20 years. I have a number of friends who settled there but you almost had to buy a house in 1980.

It should be a few years before Bush goes to war with New Zealand.

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