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Wut's the skinny on noisy lifters??
Posted 05 August 2003 - 08:08 PM
Posted 05 August 2003 - 08:14 PM
there's always replacing the oil pump, going to a thicker oil, adding an oil detergant, ect.
Don't know much beyond that. In EA82 cars it seems to be a bigger problem than EA81 cars... but some 20w50 with MOM worked on my engine for a while until I needed to change the oil.
Posted 05 August 2003 - 08:32 PM
Posted 05 August 2003 - 10:04 PM
Posted 05 August 2003 - 10:58 PM
Posted 05 August 2003 - 11:24 PM
.. maybe i should get a job designing cars :evil:
Posted 05 August 2003 - 11:48 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 09:05 AM
The few times I have had it to a dealer, I have asked them about it, they said the noise was normal and not to worry. So I haven't!:cool:
A dealer turning down business!
01 Forester...Does not climb!
Posted 06 August 2003 - 09:37 AM
on the ea82s there are more places for air to get into the oil feed, than the ea81s. i got a ea81 for reliability, and its doin the same thing as my ea82:mad: . if a lifter is collapsed, coulndt you just adjust the valve lash and treat it like a solit:p
Posted 06 August 2003 - 09:53 AM
If hydraulic, (and you'd rather not tear into the engine) you could try the old Kerosene trick.
2Qt. Kerosene + 3Qt. oil. Run the motor until it sounds really scarey then shut it off. Drain the oil/kerosene mix, replace the filter, then run two ot three batches of clean oil through the motor (with filter chenges).
It's time consuming but it's easier than pulling the lifters and a lot of people swear by it for cleaning out gunked up motors.
But.... My bet it that you have noisey solid lifters that need an adjustment.
Posted 06 August 2003 - 11:46 AM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 01:55 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 03:02 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 04:11 PM
Check the archives for Bill Putney's MMO treatment for lifter noise. Slightly less scary than the kerosene treatment but probably just as effective if cleaning the oil can do the trick.
Posted 06 August 2003 - 04:21 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 05:08 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 05:34 PM
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Posted 06 August 2003 - 07:09 PM
Posted 06 August 2003 - 09:53 PM
After you’ve tried detergent oil fixes (Marvel Mystery Oil, Rislone, Kersosene, Engine Flush, etc.) and eliminated a worn oil pump, oil pump seal, and everything else that might allow air to get into the hydraulic lifters causing them to clatter, you might try this before you tear the engine down to get to the lifters themselves. Credit for this goes to qman and I think it may be the fix for those EA82 engines where the clatter seems to come and go at will and the oil pressure seems good.
Remove the cam cover on the side that seems to be most prone to clatter (or you might need to do this on both sides). With the cam cover removed, see the 14mm stud with the horizontal tube welded to it. This stud is actually hollow and houses an oil passage check valve. The purpose of the check valve is to not allow oil into the horizontal tube (which is used to squirt oil onto the cams) until an oil pressure of 15PSI is reached. The purpose of that pressure is to fill the hydraulic lifters. IF THAT 15 PSI IS NOT ATTAINED, THE LIFTERS WILL CLATTER! The clatter will occur if the valve is stuck open due to crud in the oil, a stuck valve cup, or a weak spring allowing the check valve to open at low (i.e. less than 15 PSI) pressure. If that’s the case, the repair is to remove the cam cover, remove the 14mm stud, remove the spring, remove the cup and clean the valve seat and the components (a q-tip will do a good job cleaning the valve seat, just don’t leave any cotton residue in there). You can stretch the spring if you like to cause the check valve to open at a higher pressure, but it’s best to just replace the spring (p/n 15020AA011 and it’s only $2.70 at your dealer). Re-assemble as needed (I don’t know the torque needed to re-tighten the 14mm stud, but since it’s hollow you can easily break it off if you over-tighten it. Now is also a good time to replace the cam cover gaskets and rubber grommets sealing the cam cover.
I've got some jpg's to go with this and will try to get them posted in the Repair Manual section.
Posted 07 August 2003 - 12:54 AM
Posted 07 August 2003 - 08:42 AM
Posted 07 August 2003 - 12:04 PM
If it is the BRAT that I sold you then in reality it has 140k, I had to replace the instrument cluster because the speedo went bad.
The lifters are hydraulic and most subarus have noisy lifters. It never really affects the power, for the most part.
This BRAT got noisy lifters when I blew a headgasket in it and replaced the heads because of some cracking. The heads that were the replacement came off of my clacky 83 wagon that was Hydraulic lifters as well. I don't agree with the blanket statements about solid lifters before 85. I think it was 83. Laziness would lead me to keep hydraulic lifters though.
Me, if it was still mine, I would plunk the money down on some rebuilt heads, or, deal with the noise. Rebuilt heads can be had for under $175 a piece, I believe. Someone here will probably post the link to a shop that rebuilds all kind of heads. I will have to fire up the old laptop to find it.
Hope some of this helps.
Posted 07 August 2003 - 02:38 PM
1. Collapsed, very doubtful. I know a few long time Subaru techs and all have said that in the 25+ years that they have been doing this they have seen a combined one or two bad lifters.
2. Bad seals in the oil pump causing low oil pressure.
3. Worn check valve/ball spring(EA82's only)
4. Solid lifters out of adjustment. Yes, hydraulics did exsist from 1983 on automatic versions and in all from 1985.
5. Another cause is the small seal/o-ring that goes between the head and camcase. It gets hard and distorted and allows oil to bleed past the seal. This is where most oil leaks that come from between the head and camcase come from. This will not allow the lifters to reach the 15psi neccessay to pump themselves up.
And finally, you can remove hydraulic lifters without splitting the case. You can not remove solid lifters without splitting the case. When the hydraulic block was designed they removed some of the casting to allow the lifters to be removed from side instead of internally.
Some engine cleaners work wonders. Some "home" remedies also work well. Vehicle history needs to be taken into account as well. Has the vehicle had it's periodic maintenance done in a timely manner? Has the vehicle been abused, driven hard, or otherwise thrashed? It takes alot to really wear out a boxer motor. That's the way it was designed.
Good luck and do what ever you feel comfortable with. But, it may take a combination of repairs or fixes to eliminate the problem completely.
Posted 08 August 2003 - 01:46 PM
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