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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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DagNabbit! Heater blower is toast! (to be archived)


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55 replies to this topic

#51 Guest_Skip_*

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Posted 04 February 2002 - 02:51 PM

Did anybody catch the Fuzzy Dice Theory?

Using a IC555 timer as an astable oscillator firing a FET ?
The three positions on the switch could be used for three resistance value to change the freq of the ocillator and thus the speed of the blower

Come on FD -kick it out mate

#52 Guest_Fuzzy Dice_*

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Posted 04 February 2002 - 04:48 PM

This is for you electronics geeks, you know who you are...A 555 timer/FET combo might work. Below is a link to a motor controller schematic I found...no sense in reinventing the wheel and designing somthing from scratch. Throw out a few of the extra parts listed, remove old coil resistors and mount the whole circuit in their place and bam...a cool little motor contoller. I see two challenges to overcome. First, you have to figure out a way to get a diode in parallel with the fan motor and second, I'm not sure there's a ground wire coming into that block (although you can route another wire for ground).

After reading the other posts it might just be easier to get some resistors from digi-tech and rig something in there. Possibly less hassle, maybe not as much fun though. I just think the oscillator/FET switch would be kinda fun...just gotta find the time. I'm still trying to find the resistor block in the car!

www.solorb.com/elect/solarcirc/pwm1/

#53 Guest_Skip_*

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Posted 04 February 2002 - 05:00 PM

Hey FD I like your idea of using a IC555 better
how about both guys named "Forrest" Mims and Cook

Hey shoot me an email and I'll get ya hooked up with where the block is.

#54 Guest_Bill Putney_*

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Posted 04 February 2002 - 08:53 PM

The multivibrator motor control is very good from most aspects - compact, easy to build, *very* efficient (produces little heat of its own). The one drawback, as someone mention earlier, is it creates RFI/EMI (radio frequency interference/electromagnetic interference). Overcome that problem, and it should work well.

#55 Guest_edrach_*

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Posted 04 February 2002 - 09:16 PM

Finding the resistor block: Remove the panel below the dash and in front (toward the engine) of the glove box. Look under the dash and see the blower motor. Forward of the blower motor and just a little to the left is the resistor assembly. Mounted with two phillips screws on the left and right of the assembly itself and with one of the mounting bolts (10 mm hex with phillips) on the blower plate. Get under there with a flashlight and you're sure to see it. You could follow the four wire cable down to the unit, but I'm too lazy to go to the garage and see the wire colors involved (mostly blue). Also, you might have to carefully remove the "corrugated" rubber tubing (about 1/2" in diameter) to see the assembly. You won't see the resistor coils until you remove the three phillips screws.

#56 Guest_McBrat_*

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Posted 05 February 2002 - 09:36 AM

This is the info from Ed...
----------------------------------------------------------

Resistance/Voltage readings on Block

Coils are in series. Smallest guage wire is coil A; coils B and C look about the same but about double the wire diameter.

                        Coil A                Coil B                Coil C                Total

                        1.1 ohm        0.9 ohm        0.7 ohm        2.7 ohm
(all resistance readings taken cold)

Speed 1 (lowest)        3.1V                2.0V                1.4V                6.5V

Speed 2                        0.3V                3.0V                2.0V                5.2V

Speed 3                        0.2V                0.1V                2.9V                3.2V

Speed 4 (highest)        0.1V                0.08V                0.05V                0.3V




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