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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Head bolt socket

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5 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_SoobyDoo_*

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Posted 30 December 2001 - 01:22 AM

I'm almost ready to put the engine back in.I'm going to need to retorque the heads after I run it a bit. As some of you know, the rocker arms are in the way of the center bolt. Subaru has a special head bolt socket.
Does anyone know where I can get one or possibly how to make one?
What about an alternative? Any tips?


#2 Guest_Tolerance02_*

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Posted 30 December 2001 - 05:35 AM

There is a special socket. Subaru tool part No. 499987200.
Price here in europe arround $27.
Make one yourself mae be possible using a simple ring spanner (ring wrench?), cutting the ring off and welding the necessary connection peace square on the edge.

The retorque mae be done after the first warm up or later.
I think after about 1000 miles is the best.

Engine should be real cold.
Dont forget to loosen the tree mounting bolts from intake manifold (No.1 and No.3 Cyl. side, passengerside US.) Loosen them no more than 90° or water mae leak. If not loosed, the intake manifold mae breake during tightening the head bolts.
Do not loosen bolts from No2 and No4 cyl. side.

Loosen head bolt 1 about 60° and apply oil if necessary, repeat "loosen and tighten" operation four or five times within the 60° range for a better fit, then tighten bolt to the specified torque. (64Nm.= 6.5Kg-m = 47ft-lb)
Similarly, retighten each bolt in the sequence from 2 to 9 as posted before.

Dont forget to tighten bolts from intake manifold afterwards.

Good luck and best wishes to all for 2002.


#3 Guest_Tolerance02_*

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Posted 30 December 2001 - 05:44 AM

I posted torque specs and sequences in ABZN's topic from 12/27/01

#4 Guest_OH Noah_*

Guest_OH Noah_*
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Posted 30 December 2001 - 08:22 AM

Here's what I've done:

The Chilton's manual suggests making spacers to fill in for the rocker assm., but theirs are much more involved. I just used 4 heavy washers and two 1/2" drive sockets (9/16 I think). After everything is torqued, just pull the spacers out and torque the rocker assm. It worked great.

#5 Guest_Bill Putney_*

Guest_Bill Putney_*
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Posted 30 December 2001 - 09:37 AM

I made one with no welding. Simply bought a Craftsman socket (I forget the size, but you obviously know what it is) and ground the working end down to considerably shorten it - leaving slightly less than the full bolt head height of inside grip length. Then I ground the other end (the end that the driver plugs into) shortening it a little, stopping just short of compromising the ball detents, and ground that end into a conical shape - around 30° chamfer (30° from the plane that's perpindicular to the drive axis) all around. This gave plenty of relief for the socket to clear under the valve train and fit nicely to the bolt heads with room to spare.

Cost: One Craftsman socket plus the time to grind it to minimum material. Another tool for the Subaru special tool box. Funny thing was that when I went to re-torque the bolts, there was no tightening required, but I was able to easily engage all of the bolts heads completely to test them. This was on an '86 turbo - the head gaskets are made of a different (harder) material than for non-turbo which may have made a difference.

I used a Craftsman because I knew it had the best chance of holding up in its modified (weakened state). No problem.

#6 Guest_Mike W_*

Guest_Mike W_*
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Posted 30 December 2001 - 09:29 PM

Could I suggest adding this thread to the Ultimate Subaru Repair Manual or at least to the Archive?

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