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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Why do subys eat T-belts


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_bbitner_*

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Posted 13 December 2001 - 10:08 PM

I have never seen a car that uses t-belts like the EA-82. I can understand the back yard idiot installing non-OEM belts and not torqing them properly going threw belts but even the suby dealership is glad there are few EA-82s left on the road. My friend works at Becker subaru and agres that he was lucky if they lasted 40k miles. My honda uses a thinner belt than the suby and it only uses 1, i also take it around 7k all the time this should all shorten its life but yet it needs changed at 90k miles and they DO NOT go before than. My other friend works at Honda and has never seen a car come in with a premature belt failure. I dont want this to turn into a flame, im simply curous. The belts are pretty big and have very little load on them (4 valves, week springs) i dont understand why they fail so soon.

#2 Guest_edrach_*

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Posted 13 December 2001 - 10:34 PM

My limited experience has been using non-Subaru belts tends to shorten the interval. Secondly, not replacing all the oil seals at the 2nd belt change will serverely reduce belt life. The belts do not like oil.

#3 Guest_schreckman_*

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Posted 13 December 2001 - 10:42 PM

Temperature, amount of bends in the drive, and type of tension all affect the belt life. These are not constant tension drives with auto tensioners. Also original construction was poor. Replace with a Gates T299 and T300 for the upgraded construction.

#4 Guest_Bill Putney_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 05:15 AM

I've never gotten less than 60k miles from my belts (actually that's a stretch - I usually replace them between 55 and 60k).

Regarding the load on the belts - keep in mind that the left belt drives the oil pump and distributor. The distributor probably doesn't strees it much, but I suspect the oil pump is a load (and very constant). This is why the large majority of the time, when a belt breaks, it's the left one.

#5 Guest_leone400_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 08:32 AM

You guys haven´t been driving opel´s older car then...
model years 85-90+.............

ps. don´t shoot me , I have.....

#6 Guest_dlsm_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 10:49 AM

I don't think my problem was the sube, but the auto zone timing belts that my old mechanic put on. When I pulled the covers there were teeth everywhere from the left belt and the right belt was about to go. I got 49,000 miles out of that set and had the old ones replaced at 50,000 before they broke.
Doris

#7 Guest_LeoneTurbo_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 01:10 PM

My current EA82T has 55,000 miles on the current belt, but it needs replacement soon as idle starts to get a bit lopy and you can hear the LH belt not being 'as tensed' is it used to be!

#8 Guest_Reeve_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 01:30 PM

That's how I got my car for $180 so it isn't all bad

#9 Guest_earthguy2_*

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Posted 14 December 2001 - 03:24 PM

I never really thought about that. My GTI had well over 120k miles before I changed the belt, and it was just a preventative measure. Hmm.

#10 Guest_PaganQWA_*

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Posted 15 December 2001 - 12:19 AM

Are the Gates T299 and T300 belts or tensioners? Price :cool: ?

#11 Guest_Dennis ex24_*

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Posted 15 December 2001 - 02:41 AM

im with reeve...

thats how i got the car for free from my dad

#12 Guest_schreckman_*

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Posted 15 December 2001 - 06:25 PM

The Gates T299 and T300 are belts, They also have a belt and tensioner kit. I think it is a tck299 with both belt and tensioners and idlers. I have never been involved in the price end I would need to call.

#13 Guest_dlsm_*

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Posted 15 December 2001 - 11:18 PM

I think the gates belts are abou $23 each from NAPA amd I got the tensioners for about the same from www.thepartsbin.com. Partsbin also has a bunch of the other sube parts.
Doris

#14 Guest_Tolerance02_*

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Posted 16 December 2001 - 06:42 AM

**The belts are pretty big and have very little load on them (4 valves, week springs) i dont understand why they fail so soon.**
The so called "little load" is one of the causes that make them break.
The second cause, in relation to that is that they are manual adjusted which should be done every now and then.
When turning a camshaft by hand you can feel what a belt gos thru. First the cam must be pulled over the valve spring tension and the next moment the spring tension towards the cam gives a strong push foreward. This gives a havy to and fro snatching on the belt which is more or less compensated by the next spring and cam. Since there are only 4 valves for one belt there is not such compensation, so a loose T belt will brake sooner.
If there are 4 cylinders for one belt the follow ups of the valve spring tensions are closer and so are the compensations.
Adjust the belts frequently so they will not brake that soon.




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