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Power window fuse


Guest Lukerz
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Guest Lukerz

All power windows stopped working all at once on my buddy's 1990 loyale. One windows is stuck half open. He looked at the fuses and none listed power windows. Anyone have a clue. My Chilton manual doesn't list these wiring diagrams.

Please help

Luke

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Guest thealleyboy

Luke: I would pull all the fuses out one at a time to check them. A good way to make sure ALL of them are working.

 

If that check out, you may have to dig a little further. It could be wiring, a corroded or loose connector, or the master switch on the drivers door (thats where I would start since all the windows are out). Check for juice at the connector.

 

Dont forget to check the security lock circuit (or even the switch itself in the "off" position). We've all done it and assumed the switch was bad!!

 

Good Luck, John

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Guest Lukerz

Thanks for the feedback. If I find out it is a fuse I will let you all know. He will be swinging by tonight.

Luke

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Guest newbie boater

Checked the wiring diagram, looks like Fuse #10 is the one for the windows, but it is fed by a fused link out by the battery. Check for power at the #10 fuse (or whatever your owners manual says is the right fuse) and if there's no power TO the fuse with the key to RUN, check the fused link. After that, try holding the window switch to "UP" with the key to RUN and slowly opening and closing the door, there may be a partial break in the feed wire for the switch where it goes through the door jamb, it may make a partial connection as you sweep the door and suddenly move for 1/2 second, doesn't fix it, but at least you'd know where the problem lay.

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Guest Lukerz

Thank you for the help,

I fixed it. All fuses were good. I ended up replacing some of the harness under the front seats. What a pain in the a$$. There is a relay control just under the passenger seat. One of the wires to this was open. I just replaced That harness. The previous owner decided to replace a connector with splices so this added lot of work to figuring out where the wiring was open. I could not unplug and replace a different harness I ended up cutting all the wiring and re-splicing after I isolated the problem. I still need to find some real schematics.

Luke

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Guest thealleyboy

Luke: Glad you got things figured out.

 

The Haynes repair manual for Subes is not very popular in these circles, but it does contain reprints of the wiring diagrams for the FSM's. It is worth the 12.99 for that reason alone. The current Chiltons has got the emissions diagrams, if you ever need those.

 

John

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