Guest BigBusa Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 <img src=members.aol.com/seakingrice/shift.jpg> <img src=members.aol.com/seakingrice/shift1.jpg> I got the shifter out. I think that a lot of the "play" is coming from the ball joint type socket that the "little foot" thing sits in. Is this possible? There is a hole drilled through both the sleeve and the shifter spline. Through that was a bolt and nut combo. The bolt is not a super tight fit through the sleeveand shifter spline though. I think I can get a slightly larger bolt and lose some play here. Jeepbrat said yesterday ... Pull the pins that secure the bottom of your shifter to the shaft (rail controller thing ). Remove off shaft , cut 1/8" slit down side with grinder wheel. Put back together but using a graded shoulder bolt instead of the pins. This makes no sense to me looking at the shifter unit. I didn't see 2 pins anywhere to pull and if I did what would I grind a slot in? I stopped at the hardware store today and asked for "shoulder bolts" but they are basically axle bolts for lawnmower wheels. I don't understand where I would use a "shoulder bolt". Sorry to sound so un mechanically inclined. This is all new to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SubaruJunkie Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 You'll have to host the images somewhere other than MSN. Seems like EZBoard doenst like the URL. -Brian- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Thanks brian! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest SubaruJunkie Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 Is this your 1st Subaru? Subarus usually have quite a bit of free play in the shifter when they're in gear. I grew up on Subaru's, so im used to it, but my friends always ask "are you even in gear" when they see me play with the shifter. -Brian- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 No Brian, I've had quite a few subarus. Mostly early 80's wagons ealy on. Before this brat a 90 loyale and before that an 85 fwd wagon then the early 80's wagons. I don't mind the play at all ...what I'm having a problem with is getting the POS shifter into reverse. The play wasn't an issue until the 3" lift kit was installed. On the 2nd picture ...the pointed ball foot thing is supposed to sit in a hole and act as a pivot point? Each time the shifter is moved the hole esentially gets larger for the movement. Eventually the hole is way bigger than the ball that sits in it. This is a pretty bad design in my opinion. Is there a replacement joint availible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EJ Posted May 20, 2002 Share Posted May 20, 2002 You have to make a cut in the female end of the thingie that goes on the male end of the shaft that sticks out of the tranny. Make a cut so when you put it back together and put a bolt in(where you knocked out the pin) it tight'ns and clamps down on the male shaft. Take a look at the site I gave you a link to and use fix number #1 but also look at the pictures of fix #2. Just don't use the compression fittings. Trust me, I had the same problem after I put in my lift and that is how I fixed it. Just make sure you get a high grade nut and bolt with some lock washers to do the job right. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Ohhhhhhh. It just clicked in my head finally! Good description ezap. So the ball joint type thing can be sloppy as long as the sleeve and the shifter shaft are tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 I feel like a retard but I finally got the idea. I had to improvise because I don't even have a grinder! Just a little dremel tool. I gound a slot 1/2 way down the sleeves length but on both sides instead of one. I think this will squeeze together easier. >:-) <img src=http://members.aol.com/seakingrice/s> <img src=http://members.aol.com/seakingrice/ss> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 gotta love this board and its brilliant members! Thanks guys ...now maybe she'll go into reverse without using two hands and all my strength! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hassey Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 You are on the right track make the cut all the way across the sleeve and that taht the call a shift mod a garage will charge 60.00 for excatly what you are doing very easy fix . Hassey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jeepbrat Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Sorry I did not describe it that well , if i had a digicamera I would post pics. I don't think very clearly late at night either but it sounds like you got it licked anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Hondasucks Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 there's also some bushings around the bolt that goes into the gear shift lever, those wear out and add slop as well, I think those are like maybt 6-10 bucks from the dealer but not sure since I've never bought any before, but they aren't very much for a VW Rabbit so I can't imagine them being much more for a Subie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MrsBrat Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Don't feel to bad, I have the same problem just as will. I'm just now getting to mine. I have not took mine apart yet, but the time is coming. I have to get the blower motor in first. Then it's time for the shifter. I'm glad that you asked the question. I was about to ask the samething when I got mine out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EJ Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Did ezap explain it more clearly than I did? Its hard to explain unless you can show someone. Hey those pictures should be posted on the Ultimate Repair board. You should get a picture of it upclose when completed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest McBrat Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 I will grab the pics and add them to the page on the shifter fix. thanks. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 EJ I meant to say you explained it perfectly but I mistakenly said Ezap!. WHoops! Nice detailed instructions ...I like the word thingy ...I can relate to that. :-) I posted a couple pics of what I did. They are pretty big pics but will eventually show up in this thread if you're patient. I just got done putting it back together along with a full tune up and heater hose replacent ...I must say that shifter fix works excellent! I was not sure if the small cuts in the sleeve would be enough but it was. In my extreme case of shifter sloppiness there was no need to grind a larger slot. You may not have to either if you attempt the fix. Grinding thin slots on both sides, half way down the sleeve makes it pretty easy to cinch up. I didn't even need a high tensile strength bolt because it squished together so easily. The big thing that made the job much easier for me was the rubber shifter boot was already cut up pretty good from the previous attempt at fixing the shifter slop. (I don't need no stinkin' shifter boot! HaHa) Getting a good look at what I was doing was as simple as yanking the cut shifter boot open and poking a flashlight down in there. The last thing I did that is hardly rocket science but some might benefit from it too ....Buy some of that triple expanding foam insulation in aerosol can, pull out both rear turnsignals, hose all the mud and debris out and then filled all the rust holes and as much of that cavity as you can with the insulation. I also laid underneath each opened door and filled those rusted areas too. If you've got rust it's probably going to be on the lower doors and inner rear fender wells. This stuff works awesome and is cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest EJ Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 Glad to see your having as much fun with your scoobie as we have all had with ours, glad to help.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 21, 2002 Share Posted May 21, 2002 A topic of mine actually became important enough to become a sticky! My day is made! WooHoo! >:-) Moderators - I had to delete the pics off my hosting service to host new pics. That's why they are no longer showing up. If you want them email me and I'll send them to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest subarubrat Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 I am half considering spot welding the lever, I might try it on a spare shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest MrsBrat Posted May 28, 2002 Share Posted May 28, 2002 I got the shifter out of my brat. You would not believe it if I told you. The seals that are on the bottom of the shifter, while you could there not there anymore. I found the piece at the bottom. And plus the bottom of the shifter is not round any more. I would believe that is my problem with the shifter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest BigBusa Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 mrsbrat mines the same way. That's a small part of your problem. The biggest part (I bet) is the sleeve has worn out and needs to be tightened down on the short shifter shaft that comes out of the tranny. There's a few methods but they all should produce the same effects. Welding would seriously work!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest lumpc1 Posted May 29, 2002 Share Posted May 29, 2002 I got myself in a jam on mine, I put a 5/16" x 2" bolt with the compression fittings from the top, when done the bolt was to long and it interfeared, cause it hit the exhaust hanger I took it apart and the comprssion fittings did nothing but sqwashed on the outside of the bolt. I put a 11/2" from the underside and with two flat washers and a lock nut, did not slot the sleeve, can hit reverse better and 4th also! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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