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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Any vendors make front strut tower braces?


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18 replies to this topic

#1 Tachometer

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 05:24 AM

Granted I really ought to do a search for this...but instead I'm gonna post up and look at what happened when I wake up tomorrow...woot!

Anyway, the top front strut mounts are pretty darn far from the firewall, and when I put a strut brace on my prior car it made an INSANE difference with turn in and responsiveness. Seriously...turn in was increase to an amazing level.

So does anyone make a front strut tower brace for a...say...'86 GL-10 4WD? I'd have no issues with welding one in if A) I could weld! and B) if I planned on never taking the motor out.

#2 Ross

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 05:51 AM

You could get one made at an engineering workshop for a resonably cheap price i suspect.... I made one (bolt on) for my 81 wagon - made a huge difference.

#3 WJM

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 09:07 AM

the bolt pattern is only 1~2MM wider on the GDx chassis, and the strut bolts are clocked the same way. IF you could get a WRX bar, the adjustable type, and adjust it down 2 inches in width...it would work.

#4 Caboobaroo

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 09:48 AM

I kinda think he's referring to a 3-point, not a two point. I'm planning on making one for my '89 RX since I'm doing the XT6 suspension swap into it to get the 5-lug and the bigger sway bars. All of which helps the bottom portion of the car but there's nothing on the upper side of it to make it handle better. You'd be better off going with a 3-point, one point on each strut tower and one in the center of the firewall. It should make a HUGE difference!!!

#5 Tachometer

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 12:38 PM

the bolt pattern is only 1~2MM wider on the GDx chassis, and the strut bolts are clocked the same way. IF you could get a WRX bar, the adjustable type, and adjust it down 2 inches in width...it would work.


Hmmmm...that wouldn't be hard to find I think. And as long as I'm not getting some insane Cusco carbon fiber stick, it shouldn't be too expensive either!

And yeah, a 3 point bar would be MUCH better...but the odds of someone making 'em for us is pretty remote.

I had a 40mm bar, and it was fantastic. Probably biggest "night and day" difference with it's installation out of anything.

#6 NorthWet

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 12:57 PM

Seems to me there is enough ability on this board that someone(s) could do the fab'ing. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet :brow: ) to properly do the mount plates, but the rest is within even my capability.

Just a thought...

#7 Tachometer

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 01:06 PM

Seems to me there is enough ability on this board that someone(s) could do the fab'ing. I don't have a plasma cutter (yet :brow: ) to properly do the mount plates, but the rest is within even my capability.

Just a thought...


Honestly, that would be pretty huge. They truly make a monster difference in the handling dynamics of cars that either/and A) have the strut top mounts in the engine bay far from the firewall and B) are older more mileage flexable chasis.

As long as whomever makes 'em doesn't charge an arm and a leg...they are one of the best mods for a car, period. And on "our" cars...they would be huge.

One thing to take into consideration though would be those installing top mount intercoolers or...GASP...actually leaving the spare tire in the engine bay :P

#8 Snowman

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 03:21 PM

http://www.subspeed....LoyStrutBar.htm

or:
Posted Image

#9 NorthWet

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 04:05 PM

Snowman, that is one empty looking engine bay! Er, I mean neat and uncluttered... :)

How do you like your battery? Do you think they are worth it?

#10 Caboobaroo

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 04:11 PM

well I was kinda thinking about making them, I just need to get me a cutting torch setup since I don't think a plasma cutter would cut through the 1/4" steel plates I'm planning on using. Also I as looking at how it could be configed into a car with a TMIC and it can be done, just needs to get one and the piping so I can start making measurments:D

#11 Ross

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 05:52 PM

I wouldn't bother with a two point, the one i made was three point and was made in a weekend. hardest bit was bolting it to the firewall!

#12 Matty B

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 06:02 PM

2 x clevis forks from an agricultural supply store (or a mate, thanks Ray),

950mm long piece of steel rod, threaded to 18mm x 1.25

2 x steel tabs welded to the strut top plate for lift kit.

2 x lock nuts

$60 Australian, $45 US

Twin carbs not included.

MASSIVE DIFFERENCE, didn't know it flexed that much!

Posted Image

#13 archemitis

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Posted 17 November 2004 - 06:34 PM

http://www.subspeed....LoyStrutBar.htm

or:
Posted Image

not knockin your ride, but that thing aint doin anything.

#14 bajavwnsoobnut

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Posted 18 November 2004 - 04:29 AM

Snowman, that is one empty looking engine bay! Er, I mean neat and uncluttered... :)

How do you like your battery? Do you think they are worth it?


to say it for Snowman it is worth it I had one that was in 4 different vehicles before I did something stupid and left it in the last vehicle when I traded it for my 76 but I am gonna start gettin them when the batts finaly die in the cars and if you can afford it the yellow tops are good if you use aux lights and such cause they are automotive deep cycles that you can use for cranking and also for high drain appliances like lights and Stereo systems etc.

#15 RavenTBK

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Posted 18 November 2004 - 09:21 PM

This is something I came up with a couple years ago with my Datsun Z cars.. no reason why it couldnt be applied to the Subie too. "Skip81ZX" was my id back then.

http://www.zcar.com/...206115&t=205892

#16 Snowman

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Posted 19 November 2004 - 02:56 PM

Archemitis, no offense taken. But why exactly will that not be functional? It goes to one of the strut mount bolts on each side, so wouldn't it still prevent chassis flex?


Oh yeah, the Optima battery is schweeeeeeeet!

#17 Caboobaroo

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Posted 19 November 2004 - 03:06 PM

the way its set up it will bend in the metal thus giving it the same flex. Granted it won't be as bad but it doesn't to much for the handling. Use some squarestock like 3/4" to make a 2-point and make sure its either welded to the strut tower or make a bracket so it can bolt and unbolt from the strut cap.

#18 Snowman

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Posted 19 November 2004 - 04:00 PM

Okay, that makes sense. I'll probably build something along those lines sometime.

#19 Caboobaroo

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Posted 19 November 2004 - 04:13 PM

well I'm going to possibly start making these so if you want one, I can either send you some plans and a materials list or I can send you one that is ready to be assembled type thing. Make it waaaaaaay easier to ship then a big honkin thing:D




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