Guest jdaigle Posted February 26, 2000 Share Posted February 26, 2000 I'm trying to get to the water pump on my '86 wagon... and I'm stuck on haynes step #16 (Remove the cranckshaft pulley.) As directed, I've put a centerpunch in the flywheel, given the bolt on the crankshaft pulley the old heave-ho and... nothing. My breaker bar is a little bent, but other than that I'm not gettin' anything. I'm wondering, before I go back out there and really tear this thing up: Is that pulley reverse threaded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest St Nickolas Posted February 26, 2000 Share Posted February 26, 2000 Yep, just on tighter than.......(insert favorite cliche). Could have been Loctited, too. I've heard of some mechs that heat the Bejeezus out of such bolts and let them cool. THEN they take a wrench to them. Seeing as the crank pulleys have a rubber strip in them (does this make them a harmonic balancer?), you don't want to go that far. This sort of heating/cooling seems more common on Hondas (If I recall the discussion correctly). Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jdaigle Posted February 26, 2000 Share Posted February 26, 2000 Thanks... a friend of mine just recommended the heat/cool method, so thanks for heading me off on that too. I guess I just need a longer lever and a team of mules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ShawnW Posted February 26, 2000 Share Posted February 26, 2000 Somebody has mentioned using the starter and an object thru the hole or something but I am not sure. Can anybody snap some shots of this procedure for the Ult Sub Rep Manual page please? It would do many people a huge favor. I dont own an EA82 model so I am not much help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest gotey Posted February 27, 2000 Share Posted February 27, 2000 Shawn..what you said, that should work. If the bolt is self tightening with rotation of the crank ( as most cars are) a socket on the nut, and the breaker bar secured ( tie wrapped, etc ) to a mount, or something that wont get messed up, just crank the engine over with the starter, it will come right out ( just dont keep cranking the engine, a bump or 2 is plenty) I had a Ford mechanic show me this tip for doing timing belt changes on Escorts, worked great! just triple check the rotation, etc before actually doing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest moosens Posted February 27, 2000 Share Posted February 27, 2000 Standard threading.Remove as normal.22MM socket and heave ho,you'll get it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Witte Posted February 27, 2000 Share Posted February 27, 2000 You don't need to pull it. Its a bitch to do it w/o removing it but its very possible. Had to do it when a rebuilt pump failed 2 weeks after putting it in. I was in a parking lot when it happened so I just got a ride home and got a few tools. Then I got the pump replaced free, and put the new one on. All w/o touching the crank pully. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest St Nickolas Posted February 27, 2000 Share Posted February 27, 2000 Starter cranks engine in clockwise direction from the front, looking at the car(confirm for yourself). Breaker bar with socket should be on at about the 4 o clock position, and braced so it doesn't go past 4:30. It it goes to 6 o clock, then it can rock around the clock and that ain't no good ;-) Disconnect the coil wire where it goes to the distributor and place near ground. This way it can't start when you bump it momentarily. Stand back and give the ignition a quick thump. I've used a deepwell metric socket with 1/2" drive and breaker bar. Works slick. Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jdaigle Posted February 29, 2000 Share Posted February 29, 2000 Well, I went back out, and I got myself a little bit longer lever and a 6 point socket and just sort of hung off that bar for a while and that pulley bolt FINALLY broke free. One for the good guys. I promptly stripped out the bolts for the passengers side timing belt cover. Not to be daunted, with care and ingenuity, I managed to remove the drivers side and center tb covers, search far and wide for a water pump--which every store in my area had said on the phone that they did in fact have but THEY LIED. The pump they had was for the hatchback... completely different pump. Eventually, I got that taken of. Installation of the pump took about two minutes. I noticed that a) my drivers side tb cover has a huge chunk of plastic missing from the bottom (I didn't do that) and I seem to be missing some kind of spacer that should be attached to the bracket on which the ac compressor sits. Now the spacer I can take care of with a couple of washers, but the chunk missing from the tb cover really bothers me. What should I do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest St Nickolas Posted March 1, 2000 Share Posted March 1, 2000 Been there done that, got an option on the t-shirt contract. OK, I am sure someone has me beat on it, but I too have had chunks missing, and fastener problems. Ask yourself what the function of the covers is. It is to keep road grime, etc. out of the area. A small amount of grit will wear the belt fast, a rock the size of say a ....nut....will break the belt in about no time. I learned that on a VW, but I think it is applicable here. So you want to patch that hole(s), and keep the cover on. I patched holes with a top off a coffee can. Cut it with scissors. Put a couple of small bolts from the back of the cover to hold it, and Permatexed the remainder. Lose your inspection plugs? Patch them, too. Those of you that offroad, should probably get a better cover from a yard. Fasteners? I heated the head of one with a soldering iron and worked it out. Detached the nut, and heated it the same way to reinstall. Anti-seize all of the timing cover bolts, torque real light, and dab the head with Permatex to keep it from vibrating out. If the bolt/knurled nut is unsalvageable, go for a plastic wire tie. Not real cool looking, but will keep the cover on. Those of you with turbos, make sure you always install the heat shield on the bottom with bolts! Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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