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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Help - Electrical Power Loss


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12 replies to this topic

#1 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:42 PM

I am home from school for the weekend and went to visit my subaru (EA81T Wagon). Here's how it played out, so far:

The car was having some trouble with the starter at the end of the summer when I parked it. Now, it won't start even with the assistance of a hammer swing to the starter. There was, however, a click sound when the key is turned. So, I pulled it out today and had the internal contacts cleaned (I thought they were corroded but they were just dirty). When I reinstalled it, there was a small spark as I attached the battery cable - didn't think much of it.

Now when I turn the key, there is no clicking sound as before and no power anywhere. The only things that do have power are the dome light, the hazard light, and the horn. The dash shows no readings and things like the lights don't work. Jumping the car does nothing at all.

I'm thinking that maybe there is a bad fuse somewhere. Asside from that I'm lost. I think that the battery is fine.

Suggestions, Comments?

Thanks,

#2 Ross

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:46 PM

Fusible link maybe?

#3 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:49 PM

How do I check the fusible link?

#4 subiemech85

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 08:50 PM

you may have blown a fusible link

it's a black rectangle box near the battery, pop the cover off, remove each one and check for continuity

best place for new ones is the junk yard

good luck sparky

to see if the starter is crap run a hot wire to the male connector, the small one

to hotwire the igniton, run a wire from battery + to coil +

#5 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 09:00 PM

As far as little boxes are concerned, there is a little gray box marked:
GREEN
RED
RED

I can't figure out how to pop it off w/out exerting little-box-breaking-pressures. It has a direct wire to the battery. Can you tell me if that's the right little black box?


Thanks for the help

#6 subiemech85

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Posted 20 November 2004 - 10:52 PM

pop the tab that is on the bottom of the grey cover with your finger as you pull straight up the tab is on the coil side, see diagram

I checked carb and turbo

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#7 TomRhere

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Posted 21 November 2004 - 05:34 AM

Would also suggest that you unbolt the box and check the underside connections. Not saying it's your problem, but I've had them get way corroded on my old '86. Lost headlights on dark curvy road once, due to corrosion on the wires under link box. Wouldn't crank over another time, for same reason.

And as usual, check all of your grounds.....

#8 Skip

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Posted 21 November 2004 - 07:04 AM

You may also want to look at the ignition switch
feed connector.

It's pink in color and located under the steering column.
(panel needs pulled)

They have a habit of corroding and melting open the hot feed to
the ig switch and all circuits controlled by it.

#9 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 21 November 2004 - 05:50 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions. I fixed it right up today. Sure enough it was a blown fusible link. I made a new one (didn't feel like making a j/y run for a piece of wire) and she's roaring back to life!

#10 subiemech85

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Posted 22 November 2004 - 10:23 AM

NO!!!!! BIG MISTAKE

IT BLEW FOR A REASON

FIX THE PROBLEM BEFORE YOU HURT SOMETINNG

THE FUSIBLE LINK IS MORE THAN JUST WIRE, WIRE WILL NOT BLOW AT 180 AMPS

DON'T SAY I DIDN'T WARN YOU:cool:

#11 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 22 November 2004 - 03:27 PM

I used fusible link wire (not just normal wire) if that's what you were thinking. But are you saying that you think I have a prob. w/ my elec. system? It blew because of the spark (I think).

But yeah, I think I just didn't communicate well, there. I did use the proper fusible link wire.

Thanks for the concern

#12 subiemech85

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Posted 23 November 2004 - 03:49 AM

was it just a spark, or was there welding involved, divots and burn marks?

a spark takes about 5-15 amps

communication is crucial

#13 MSSLGECKO

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Posted 23 November 2004 - 07:14 PM

It was just a spark when I attached the battery cable to the starter. No welding. I think the elec. system is fine.




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