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more electric stuff........
Posted 24 October 2001 - 03:15 PM
Posted 24 October 2001 - 03:47 PM
did you get any mud stuck in that thing in WA?
Posted 24 October 2001 - 04:52 PM
I'm not quite understanding some of your statements. Could you elaborate on "I can get out and jump across the battery wire and the selanoid and it starts." Exactly what points do you jump from and too - especially at the battery? By that, I mean do you touch your jumper to the post of the battery, or to the cable clamp? What happens if you do one, and then the other - do you get the same results?
Your other puzzling statement: "Now the guy at the alternator shop told me that if your idiot lights don't come on when the key is turned then the alternator is not being regulated properly...". Is this when you turn the key from off to run (engine off), or from run to start, or what. The statement doesn't make sense.
You might have more than one problem (alternator plus a wiring,poor connection problem, and/or bad solenoid).
You said: "...I have to rev it up to 22-2400 rpm to get the thing charging." Now we're getting somewhere - that is an indication that, yes, the alternator is not putting out. To confirm that, measure the voltage at the battery with the engine running at idle and at about 2000 rpm. Should be between 13.2 and 14.8 volts or thereabouts if it's working correctly. But, as you indicated, low alternator output is not necesssarily an indication that the alternator itself is bad. Pull that "T" connector off, and look into it at the metal terminals. Are they corroded? Are the sides of the terminals that wrap around and are supposed to apply spring pressure against the mating terminals spread to too large of a gap so they don't make good contact? If either of those things is true, try cleaning them with degreaser or contact cleaner, and then squeeze the sides with a pair of needle nose pliers to close the gap somewhat (don't over-do it - i.e., don't squash them flat). Then push some silicone grease (dielectric grease, ignition grease) into the ends of the terminals to prevent future corrosion - then reconnect it to the alternator.
If that doesn't fix it, remove the alternator and take it to your auto parts store and have them test it. If it tests bad, and they seem to know what they're doing, then replace the alternator.
Report back at that point and let us know what you've found. It still could be other things, but there is a good chance that the problem is in the alternator or that connection causing the battery not to be charged enough.
Posted 24 October 2001 - 05:18 PM
problem is with a fusable link,ignition switch,or other wiring
Check voltage at solenoid while having problems(not hotwired)
Above problems may affect alternator/idiot light
Fix starting problem first
Alt. may also have problems,90% of time only worn brushes(under $5)
Posted 24 October 2001 - 06:13 PM
Turning the key from off to the run position...... when the brake light, oil light, etc etc come on.
I will take a multi meter reading before and after reving it up and report back.
I've cleaned all the contacts and use dielectric grease on almost all of my conections, squezed it tight too, repaced the positive cable and the negative battery terminal.
This is why I hate messing with electronic stuff, thanks for the help so far guys, Tim
PS it's not any of the stuff kelowna mentioned. I forgot to say this is the third starter I've put in, they get progressively worse the longer I use them. They start out fine then slowly stop starting the car with out being jumped across. Thanks, Tim
Posted 24 October 2001 - 08:05 PM
Just out of curiosity:
When you've replaced the starter, did you: simply have it rebuilt, toss on another one from a junk yard, put on a rebuilt one that you bought, or put on a brand new one?
The reason I'm curious is I'm wondering how the solenoid contacts look, if you are having your old one rebuilt or just tossing on another from a junk yard. As time goes on, copper slowly wears away from one relay contact, while the other stays about the same. Take a look at the contacts and see what condition they are in. If they are worn unevenly, then you aren't getting good contact when the relay (solenoid) engages. If you can't find a starter repair shop that can get new contacts, then simply switch them around to get a little more life out of the old ones.
Hope this helps,
Posted 24 October 2001 - 09:58 PM
Proof lies in the fact that you can always start w/a screwdriver
As for the reason a new starter works for a while,that is certainly more mysterious
but here is a wild guess
Solenoid circuit supplies enough current to pull in a new solenoid but as solenoid
wears current supply becomes marginal
Posted 24 October 2001 - 10:31 PM
You say you like 4 wheeling, mud, and in this post you say you dont like or know about Electrical Stuff. Egad a Turbo Wagon aint the way to go .
Get a hatch and put all them goodies on it. Make your Wagon a street rod again.
Still have my hatch 4 sale btw, plug.
Posted 25 October 2001 - 06:32 AM
How much for that hatch in the window???
Posted 25 October 2001 - 07:33 AM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 08:46 AM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 09:12 AM
W/lights, blower, radio on.....drops to 11ish
After a rev to 2400rpm w/nothing on.......18ish
W/lights, blower, radio on.........18ish
Belt is alittle loose, I'll tighten it up but I think the Alternator is the culprit. What do you guys think???? Still don't know why I'm not getting any idiot lights. Could the regulator be doing this??? Thanks, Tim
Posted 25 October 2001 - 10:10 AM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 10:17 AM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 10:23 AM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 12:21 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 03:00 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 03:10 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 03:13 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 04:26 PM
Here's the order you need to do things in so as not to perpetuate the existing problem(s) or cause new problems:
1. Put charger on battery - give it plenty of time to charge up (like overnight).
2. Take car to auto parts store and have battery tested.
3. If tests bad (even after being charged up), do not pass go - replace the battery. If tests good, do not replace the battery.
4. Regardless of results of step 3., *then* measure output of alternator with engine running and/or remove alternator and have it tested off the car. Replace alternator if it's bad. Do not replace if it's good.
After doing the above, then tackle any remaining problems. There is a chance your other problems will have magically disappeared by fixing whatever is going on with your alternator and/or battery - but no guarantees.
You've gotten good advice from others here too - but I would do the above stuff *first* in that order, then tackle any remaining problems. Doing it out of order is just going to cause confusion and possibly do more damage.
Let us know what you figure out.
Posted 25 October 2001 - 04:56 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 05:05 PM
When you turn the key and hear a click, but the starter doesn't crank, you either have a bad connection with the battery or your solenoid contacts are dirty/old/bad.
When you turn the key and hear a rapid clicking sound (kind of a buzzing), the solenoid is faulty. The pull-in windings are working fine, but the hold-in windings have a break/short somewhere.
When you turn the key and hear no click whatsoever, but are getting 12+ volts to the solenoid activator terminal on the starter (the little one), then the solenoid is faulty. You have a break/short in the pull-in windings.
To test the condition of the solenoid contacts, you'll need someone to help. You need to place one contact of your multimeter on the connection on the starter that comes from the battery. The other contact of your multimeter you'll need to place on the contact that is on the very bottom of the starter, it should be covered with a little rubber protective boot (this is not the solenoid contact). Once you have your multimeter connected, making certain that your hands/other body parts/tools are out of the way of any spinning objects, have your friend hit the key to roll the engine over. If the multimeter is reading a voltage of any higher than 1/2 volt, the contacts are bad or are getting there fast.
Posted 25 October 2001 - 05:41 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 06:01 PM
Posted 25 October 2001 - 07:04 PM
As for by passing the nutral safety..... I just put the shifter into park and then disassembled it as far as I could and shoved it under the new council. By-the-by it took me a day and a half to figure that one out and fix....LOL
Thanks for the help and patiants, Tim
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