tj84833@cox.net Posted November 25, 2004 Share Posted November 25, 2004 Hello, I am an new member and have a problem with my 93 legacy AWD. When turning sharp out of a parking space it feels as though the wheels or something else is binding underneath. There is no clunking or other noise but seems to almost grab then let go. I put the car completely off the ground and ran it with the wheels cocked all the way in both directions and there was no problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am not D. Trump. The dealer said without looking at it that it is the clutches in the transfer case. YAHOO! Over $1000.00 to fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tinkerers Posted November 25, 2004 Share Posted November 25, 2004 We had a similar noise on our 2000 Outback and it would only make noise when turning to the right. It turned out to be a rubber/plastic guard inside the wheel well. We just broke it off and the sound is gone. The guard was actually rubbing against the tire. We found it by having someone drive slow & turn and the other person sticking their head in the wheel well to see what was going on. Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StapleCheese Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 Your dealer was right, your problem is in the transfer clutch. And his quote might be a little high, but not much. Hey, if we wanna drive the old stuff, we've either gotta be D. Trump or Mr. Goodwrench, right? Just keep thinking about how you don't have one of those fancy car payments, and that should get you through the struggle of writing the check. I don't mean to sound harsh -- I hope it works out well for you. Keep us posted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friendly_jacek Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 Please do a search on torque bind. If you do, you might find that your problem might not be that expensive, although it possibly could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JaapH Posted November 26, 2004 Share Posted November 26, 2004 can be as simple as tirepressure. do a search on the binding problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CardinaA Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 If you've got a MT, I can attest to a torque bind problem that was fixed with a replacement of the VC unit (like the automatic's clutch pack) on my 1996 Outback 5m; there is NO miracle fix (magic fluid or otherwise) for the problem as the VC fluid is sealed in the unit. A mechanic was able to do the job for under 500 and I believe the part was something like 250. Many dealers charge over 1000, but an independent shop can probably undercut that figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rottenhead Posted November 30, 2004 Share Posted November 30, 2004 Recently have had the same issue on my 92 AT wagon. Multiple shops have insisted it needs the $800-1000 service (which I'm sure it eventually will) but for now a flush and fill has helped tremendously. Good luck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kjeldahlsoxlet Posted January 2, 2005 Share Posted January 2, 2005 Hello, I am an new member and have a problem with my 93 legacy AWD. When turning sharp out of a parking space it feels as though the wheels or something else is binding underneath. There is no clunking or other noise but seems to almost grab then let go. I put the car completely off the ground and ran it with the wheels cocked all the way in both directions and there was no problems. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am not D. Trump. The dealer said without looking at it that it is the clutches in the transfer case. YAHOO! Over $1000.00 to fix.This fixed the rear wheel shudder in my '98 forester - "Instant Shudder Fixx" by Lubguard added to the auto-trans. I orderd it from my local parts dealer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miranda Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Had the same problem with the binding in my 96' outback that I just bought(for cheap) thank god! Anyway, the problem lies with the transfer clutches that get damaged as a result of driving an AWD without a matching set of tires(not me). I had mine fixed for about $800 from the dealer, you can get it done much cheaper i'm told. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
legacy48 Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Had the same problem with my 95 legacy lsi. Independent shop said $1k to fix, another said $600, researched it a little on usmb and had the transmission fluid changed. Well, it worked! 5 mos later and 4k miles and no issues. Try it first, might be a cheap alternative. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyuunuuya Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hello I just bought my wife a 92 subaru legacy AWD, and am having the same problem. I'm a pretty good mechanic I think just FYI. Anyways I diagnosed the problem by first letting someone else drive the vehicle while I watched. The first thing the car did when turning was make a horrific clicking noise as if the axles were bad, yet the sound was coming from underneath the shifter. The second thing I noticed was that when turning sharply the rear wheel would actually try to lock up. Soooooo Next thing I did was lift just the rear left tire off the ground, put the car in nuetral with e-brake down, and tried to spin it. No matter how hard I pushed it wouldn't budge. Also when I lifted the tire off the ground initially it spun about 1/4 turn from the tourqe that was on the driveshaft. So I believe it's my clutches inside my tansfer case. Anyways my QUESTION is I disconnected the middle piece of the driveshaft since putting the 20 amp fuse into the FWD didn't seem to actually turn the car into 2WD mode since I'm guessing the clutch is welded together. Does anyone out there know enough about this to tell me wheather I'm running any kind of risk by taking out that piece of driveshaft? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sregor13 Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 Have you check the all of your tires are the same size? Measure them if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 18, 2005 Share Posted June 18, 2005 check your tires. improperly matched sets will cause the TCU to inadvertently lock and unlock the transfer clutches at abnormal times. i've seen it happen. check the tire tread depth and the tire pressure. AUTOMATIC - if the tires are good then have the fluid flushed and the trans filter changed. you can probably get away without the filter change, but i recommend changing the filter personally. if you have an automatic trans - install an aftermarket transmission cooler, the best 30 or 40 dollars you can spend. the stock cooler in the side of the radiator is limited in capability and easily degrades as the radiator ages. hands down best 30 dollars you can spend if you want high mileage and few issues out of your trans. this becomes more and more important if you do any hard driving, towing, racing, live in hot areas, mountain driving, torque converter launches, etc. MANUAL - if the tires are fine then change the diff fluid and transmission gear oil. i'd also change the rear diff fluid as the fluid costs a couple dollars. if you end up needing transfer clutches for an automatic trans, buy a used set and have a place install them. look for a bad trans and buy the rear transfer housing and have it installed. or find a cheap trans yourself and buy the whole thing. i know two people that have installed transer housings/clutches in this way. both in north caronlina now that i think about it, strange coincidene. good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyuunuuya Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 check your tires. improperly matched sets will cause the TCU to inadvertently lock and unlock the transfer clutches at abnormal times. i've seen it happen. check the tire tread depth and the tire pressure. AUTOMATIC - if the tires are good then have the fluid flushed and the trans filter changed. you can probably get away without the filter change, but i recommend changing the filter personally. if you have an automatic trans - install an aftermarket transmission cooler, the best 30 or 40 dollars you can spend. the stock cooler in the side of the radiator is limited in capability and easily degrades as the radiator ages. hands down best 30 dollars you can spend if you want high mileage and few issues out of your trans. this becomes more and more important if you do any hard driving, towing, racing, live in hot areas, mountain driving, torque converter launches, etc. MANUAL - if the tires are fine then change the diff fluid and transmission gear oil. i'd also change the rear diff fluid as the fluid costs a couple dollars. if you end up needing transfer clutches for an automatic trans, buy a used set and have a place install them. look for a bad trans and buy the rear transfer housing and have it installed. or find a cheap trans yourself and buy the whole thing. i know two people that have installed transer housings/clutches in this way. both in north caronlina now that i think about it, strange coincidene. good luck This filter thing you speak of do you think it's capable of binding up the transfer clutches if dirty? Also those people that put in the used tanfer case do you know how difficult it was for them to do it? About the tire thing yes the guy I bought it from had a flat and used a different brand tire on if. I beileve he droive on that used tire for awhile until the limited slip couldn't take it anymore and welded the clutches together or something. Since I believe I don't know for sure but even if I have a different size tire in the back once I put that fuse into 2 wheel drive mode it should unlock the driveshaft and let me keep on driving. I'm eagerly waiting for your reply Garbage pail kid Gary hehe. Thanks again for all your input guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 the filter should not cause this, just a recommended maintenance item while diagnosing the trans. a really bad filter could cause line pressure problems which can affect the trans, but would be unlikely to cause only the problems you're experiencing. that's why i said you can get away without doing it. a fellow moderator at http://www.xt6.net says replacing the transfer clutches is fairly straight forward and they can be purchased from subaru for about 1.50 each for the XT6 4EAT trans. (there are 6 or 8 of them). this can also be done without removing the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyScoop Posted August 23, 2005 Share Posted August 23, 2005 Hi Grossgary, do you know if there is any link on how this transfer clutches replace is done? It will be greatly helpful if you know there is any procedure, since I have the same problem and needed my Auto Tranny transfer clutch done. And did he change it on a hydrolic lift or just jack stands? Thanks in advance. the filter should not cause this, just a recommended maintenance item while diagnosing the trans. a really bad filter could cause line pressure problems which can affect the trans, but would be unlikely to cause only the problems you're experiencing. that's why i said you can get away without doing it. a fellow moderator at www.xt6.net says replacing the transfer clutches is fairly straight forward and they can be purchased from subaru for about 1.50 each for the XT6 4EAT trans. (there are 6 or 8 of them). this can also be done without removing the trans. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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