LostWater Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 Hey all, I was wondering if any special tools are needed for a rear wheel bearing replacement on my 97 Outback? I have reviewed other posts and read of something called a hub tamer. I googled that and it is a $300 tool set!! Is that waht everyone uses?? Is there a tool set that harbor freight sells that may fulfill the same function? The endwrench site also calls for a bearing puller. What is that and where can that be found? Thanks for any and all help! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenSisters Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45210 This may do it. No guarantees. Take a look at it. Someone else had a post for this item. Try a search for HubTamer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gbhrps Posted November 27, 2004 Share Posted November 27, 2004 Lostwater, I had a rear wheel bearing replaced in my 97 OBW years ago under warranty, and was able to watch the entire operation in the dealer's service department. As I recall, they removed the wheel and the links to the rear hub, removed the axle shaft to the rear hub, and left everything hanging on the lift. They then put the rear hub assembly in a 10 or 20 ton press and just pressed out the old bearing assembly, pressed in the new one and reassembled the car. It wasn't 45 minutes on the hoist. I suggest that you get the job done to the point of taking the hub off the car, then take it to a shop that has a press, and get them to press out the old and in with the new. It shouldn't be too expensive, and you don't get stuck buying a special tool that you may never need again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alia176 Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Mark, The Harbor Freight front end tool looks like it should work. I have a Hub Tamer tool and probably didn't need it if I had done a search and found the HFreight one! You'll also need to purchase one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5223. The slidehammer will be used to remove the current hub out of the car. I think that both of these tools are worth the investment since we have an AWD vehicle! Removing the hub from the vehicle wiill work also. The problem is the amount of corrosion on the hardware and the subsequent alignment afterwards. Also, I'd have a hard time placing the knuckle in my press since it's an irregular shape. But anything is possible! If you have any corrosion on your vehicle, then plan on ordering two lateral link busings, one long bolt, one nut. A new axle nut should be used. I had to sawsall my lateral link bolt due to the Midwest salt belt corrosion! Even if you manage to remove the lateral link nut, by rotating the lateral link bolt, there's a chance that your bushings will get torn in the process. The sleeves that are inside the bushings try to become "one" with the lateral link bolt! PB Blaster (or similar) will be your best friend! Note: the bearings and hubs will be extricated toward the outside of the vehicle. Another words, as your facing the hub assembly, everything gets pulled out toward you for removal. Hope I didn't confuse you...too much! Ali '95 Legacy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted November 29, 2004 Author Share Posted November 29, 2004 Ali, Thanks so much for your post and the information. I looked at the OTC hub Tamer set and the one from Harbor Freight looks so similar and for so much less money. Also, will I need a ball joint press tool to push the lateral link bolts out as others have suggested? Do you by chance have the parts numbers for the bushings or the lateral link bolts? I may have those one hand because I bought this car out of Connecticult and the there is some corrosion on the exposed parts. Thanks again, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Mark, The Harbor Freight front end tool looks like it should work. I have a Hub Tamer tool and probably didn't need it if I had done a search and found the HFreight one! You'll also need to purchase one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=5223. The slidehammer will be used to remove the current hub out of the car. I think that both of these tools are worth the investment since we have an AWD vehicle! Removing the hub from the vehicle wiill work also. The problem is the amount of corrosion on the hardware and the subsequent alignment afterwards. Also, I'd have a hard time placing the knuckle in my press since it's an irregular shape. But anything is possible! If you have any corrosion on your vehicle, then plan on ordering two lateral link busings, one long bolt, one nut. A new axle nut should be used. I had to sawsall my lateral link bolt due to the Midwest salt belt corrosion! Even if you manage to remove the lateral link nut, by rotating the lateral link bolt, there's a chance that your bushings will get torn in the process. The sleeves that are inside the bushings try to become "one" with the lateral link bolt! PB Blaster (or similar) will be your best friend! Note: the bearings and hubs will be extricated toward the outside of the vehicle. Another words, as your facing the hub assembly, everything gets pulled out toward you for removal. Hope I didn't confuse you...too much! Ali '95 Legacy Alia, could you tell what is the maximum pressure rating on your bench press in tons? I have a 12 tons press and I'm wondering if it's enough for bearing replacing? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alia176 Posted November 29, 2004 Share Posted November 29, 2004 Mark, No problem. I posted some pics in my Personal Locker in the SVX page for your enjoyment: http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?alia176|13589 Not sure if you have to be a member in order to view these pics though! For part #s, I'm afraid I don't have anything handy. Perhaps, there's a website that may spell these #s out? I usually go to www.subaruparts.com for my SVX parts. Here's the page where I ordered the parts for my SVX (same wheel bearing job!) http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?model=2&year=1992&style=4WD&body=&scn=2&category=201-A2. I recommend using Subaru parts or Liberty Subaru (out of NJ) for the best prices. My local stealership has a serious markup on parts prices. I didn't use a ball joint press out tool to push the lateral link bolt out...I cut it out! My logic is that if it takes that much effort to free a rusted bolt, then it's not worth re-using it! Besides, I don't think a puller would've worked here due to the amount of corrosion/adhesion and the lack of enough surface area to work with. I think I tried using my Pitman arm puller to no avail. New hardware has plenty of antiseize on it to make it easier for the next time. Frag, I have a 20 ton press and I think your 12ton should be enough. I don't know what kind of a force is being applied by using the "forcing screw" from the hubtamer tool. Generally, I do all of my other wheel bearing job with the 20T press w/o any issues. The forcing scew is the super long/beefy looking bolt that you see in the HFreight pic! Be sure to spray your favorite penetration fluid on a daily basis on the offending parts before starting the actual work. Sometimes, sacrificing a goat might help to appease the corrosion gods! Pneumatic tool will be your very best friend for this job. If you can't afford a decent quality unit then borrow one. This is a classic case where an Impact with 600 ft-lb (or more) of reversing torque is necessary to break these hardware loose. Also, use a torque wrench on tighteting everything to spec. Otherwise, the lateral arm or the knuckle may deflect. I'm sure there're more but can't remember right now! Later, Ali ps separate the wheel bearings upon receipt and clean/repack with fresh wheel bearing grease. Trust me, that stuff looks like grease that the bearing come with but it ain't. Just apply some heat and watch it melt away like wax. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted December 18, 2004 Author Share Posted December 18, 2004 Ok, I cut a piece of plate steel to mimic what the special hub puller would do. I drilled holes in it for the lugs and I drilled a hole in the center for the slide hammer to go through. It looks like it will function exactly as the "5 hole adapter" that SOA recommends in the endwrench article. I have been beating on it for two hours and it has not budged. Anybody have any ideas? Help! Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenSisters Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 I assume you are trying to separate the hub from the axle. I trust you took off the axle nut. If you did, a little heat may help. You're replacing the bearings anyhow. Also a lot of penetrant on the splines. As far as the grease goes, Subaru has had a lot of problems with bearings and has supplied different parts with and without grease. The Subaru Endwrench site has good directions for the current bearings. I did not re-lube mine per their instructions. No problems yet, but it can't hurt to clean and re-pack as long as you don't apply too much grease when you do. Too much grease is bad according to a tapered bearing manufacturer I talked to. Good luck and you need a torque wrench to put things bach together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 The axle is totally out and loose. The rotor is off too. Even got the lateral link bolt out with no problems. The problem is trying to seperate the hub from the bearing. It is put together like this: Knuckle is bearing housing, bearings are pressed into that, then hub is pressed into bearings, the rotor goes over hub, the axle comes through all. I can't get the stinkin hub out, my arms hurt, I have blisters even wearing gloves. I am pretty frustrated. My dad thinks I should go get a bottle of Mapp gas as I tried propane and couldn't get it hot enough to do anything. Any other suggestions? Thanks Mark I assume you are trying to separate the hub from the axle. I trust you took off the axle nut. If you did, a little heat may help. You're replacing the bearings anyhow. Also a lot of penetrant on the splines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 The axle is totally out and loose. The rotor is off too. Even got the lateral link bolt out with no problems. The problem is trying to seperate the hub from the bearing. It is put together like this: Knuckle is bearing housing, bearings are pressed into that, then hub is pressed into bearings, the rotor goes over hub, the axle comes through all. I can't get the stinkin hub out, my arms hurt, I have blisters even wearing gloves. I am pretty frustrated. My dad thinks I should go get a bottle of Mapp gas as I tried propane and couldn't get it hot enough to do anything. Any other suggestions? Thanks Mark Machine shop to get the hub pressed out of the berrings, and then the berrings out of the knuckle? When I had that work done here it only cost on the order of $35 a side all told. Sounds like you have had much more than $35 worth of frustration already. . . . Call around and see what prices are like in your neck of the woods. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 I was thinking about that. If I took it all to a machine shop, the I would have to get an alignment, hence the desire for doing it on the car. Thanks for the suggestion. Anybody have any other ideas? Mark Machine shop to get the hub pressed out of the berrings, and then the berrings out of the knuckle? When I had that work done here it only cost on the order of $35 a side all told. Sounds like you have had much more than $35 worth of frustration already. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SevenSisters Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 This is the point where I used the Hubtamer to pull the hub out of the bearing. As I recall, I used an adapter that pushed on the hub part that went through the bearing center and the inner bearing race. Once the hub was out, there is a clip that is removed and then the bearing is pulled out the same way. The Endwrench article shows this procedure with Subaru tools. It could also be the step where you take the housing and all to someone that has a press and they press the hub, then the bearing out. KEY POINT: When you put the bearing in, only put pressure on the outer race! When you push in the hub, apply pressure only to the inner race! If you don't you can screw up the bearing by putting force on the tapered rollers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LostWater Posted December 19, 2004 Author Share Posted December 19, 2004 Unfortunately, the harbor freight hubtamer copy does not appear to have the large adapter thingy that the screw would need to push against in order to use the screw to push the hub out. It looks like the pictures Ali posted used that method. Any other ideas? Thanks, Mark This is the point where I used the Hubtamer to pull the hub out of the bearing. As I recall, I used an adapter that pushed on the hub part that went through the bearing center and the inner bearing race. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alia176 Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Sorry to hear about the frustrations...if I recall, I didn't have the easiest of luck using the hubtamer tool to push the hub out. You know, that huge C clamp looking thing just doesn't fit well over all of the rear parking brake crap. It always ended up being a little skewed anyway and I spent just too much time fiddling with its position. You said, you pulled the link bolt out. I hope you put all of the suspension parts back in while you're slidehammering away. Otherwise, there's no resistance being put on the knuckle while you're slamming away as the whole thing will just sway as you're slamming! I also rented a rather large slidehammer to do this job, perhaps it was a 5 or a 10 lb slidehammer? Let's see, the axle nut is out and you're pulling on the wheel lugs....sounds logical to me. That biatch should come out! Yeah, try some more heat while, I mean red glow. Perhaps there's some sort of factory loctite that's bonded or you got corrosion in there. Wish I could be of more help! Ali Unfortunately, the harbor freight hubtamer copy does not appear to have the large adapter thingy that the screw would need to push against in order to use the screw to push the hub out. It looks like the pictures Ali posted used that method. Any other ideas? Thanks, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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