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Brat Ig key will not turn to off


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Well my Brat "Snow Worries" has been getting harder and harder

to turn to the OFF position.

Today it refused to turn.

In advance of this problem I removed the lower panel under the steering col. and put in a toggle switch.

I am not going to change the lock.

I would like to find an original blank and will get the key number off the pass side lock but until then I put the toggle switch on the white feed wire to the pink main igniton connector under the col.

Where do I hide my not so secret switch?

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Have the same problem with the '86 BRAT. Can still get it to turn off most of the time, but it gets real iffy sometimes. Thought of trying an air blast, then some lock-ease for lube, but haven't done it yet. Hadn't gave much thought to a work around for it until now. Thinking on splicing into main power feed to ignition switch, and installing a keyed on/off switch in one of the empty switch holes in the dash. Just have to make sure the new switch can take the load, as in amps. Not sure on how much that would be though. Guess I need a good DC ampmeter to check out the full amp load thru ignition switch with everything on....Tom

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Skip if you decide to change the cyl, let me know, I may have one and door locks that are the same. Check for a sticker on the glove box door and inside the owners manual before pulling the pass door lock when looking for the code.

 

Chris

:banana: :banana: :banana: :wave:

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aren't soobs well known for their ignition worries? I can put mine in partial (1/2 way) and turn it almost all the way , pull it out, put it back in 1/2 way, turn it back, stick the key in all the way, and turn it like normal. It's interesting. Andrew once told me about a guy who could put the key in, turn it on, and take the key out.

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Tom, mine worked when I pulled it out about 0.125" then turned

until today

 

Chris, thanks, mon I may have a look will email you if I decide to do the nasty

 

Joh, yes suby ig switches are known for having problems

EA81's go like outlined

EA82's have contact problems in the start position

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We've got at least a couple Subbie's that you can leave running, and remove the key. Works great in the winter, so you can leave it run, while you dash into the store or whatever, and still lock it.

 

Also, several of our keys will work in different Subbies.

 

RedLance

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Skip, I don't have a fix but I might have a solution. I had the same problem with my '84 Brat. Fought with it for a while and was even tempted to go out and get a cylinder lock out of a wreck along with the door locks and replace all three. My last resort prior to getting new lock cylinders was to go to my local locksmith--not the hardware store keymaker but a REAL locksmith. It took him 15 minutes (and $30 of my money) and it's been good as gold ever since. I still don't know what he did and I watched him like a hawk, but I can't argue with success.

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Ed did the locksmith work on the lock or make you a new key?

I gave thought to going to a dealer and getting a fresh key from the number made,

is that not an option?

 

Zeno - no offense taken mate. I thought getting the cyl out was a PITA? It looks like it is? The toggle switch I put in is a kind of theft deterent, am thinking of using a micro switch behind the ash tray

It will inturn control a relay to turn the ig off and on

ashtray out - run

push in - off

Now that seems like a lot of trouble -eh!

 

 

Please note:

I tend to loose things - like keys, wallet, my mind ect.

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Nah, the ig. lock wasn't as bad as the manual leads you to believe. I could be a little off on that, it was quite a while ago when I did that job. The biggest problem I had was the switch failed at 9PM the Wednesday before Thanksgiving..dealer parts closed until Monday, ugh!

 

I like the ashtray idea, although you might have the potential to accidently hit the ashtray while driving and turn the car off. I'd suggest getting a stock "passing light" (Cyclops) switch and using that in its stock position on the lower dash.

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Originally posted by RedLance

We've got at least a couple Subbie's that you can leave running, and remove the key. Works great in the winter, so you can leave it run, while you dash into the store or whatever, and still lock it.

 

Mine "works" exactly like that. Never thought of it as being a feature though. You must work in Marketing! ;)

 

I also have the "feature" of barely being able to turn the key off unless I wiggle it while applying counter-clockwise pressure. A toggle switch may be in order at some point.

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NV, the ashtray is on the far side of the dash on a Brat

NOW the passenger may push it in - and then say

"WhadIdu??"

 

The blank for the Passing light is an easy to get to one, nice idea.

I could use a lighted push pull like the orig, make it easy to find at night.

 

I have read where some guys change the entire col. just to change an ig switch. Guess thats where I got the idea it was a tuff nut to crack.

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My keys to my Nissan Truck from 86 were all worn down to almost nothing.. couldnt even copy it... So like others I took the code numbers off the lock in the door and went to a lock smith and he made me a new set... The keys are great... Nothing wrong with the locks at all///

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Skip:

 

A trick to getting the cylinder out is to use a right angle drill (or attchement), if you have access to one. You can drill out the rivets and replace them with screws if you are careful.

 

I you want to go the remote switch route, a footswitch mounted out of the way on the firewall is my favorite spot.

 

good luck, John

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Wow! Guess I made it "through" (First post on new board) Anyway, My old BRAT I had to pull the key out just slightly to turn it. Everyone always had problems with that and getting it into reverse (Even the dealer) I like to think of it as my own personal security system. :D I also used to be able to leave it running and pull the key out and lock doors etc. Like a cadillac. I used to BS people and tell them it was a standard option on the old Subarus. Ha Ha Ha

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Skip, you must not be a smoker!

I can take my key out in any position, too. It is worn and requires a wiggle sometimes.

I also have found brand-new keys under the carpet under the front passenger seat in FERTHER and in boneyard cars. I think the factory did it. You have to remove the seat to get at it.

(I'm not sure what to make of that banana.)

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Hi, as good as our cars are, this is and was a lousy place to go the cheap route. Every pre 90 Subaru I have owned has had ignition problems. My 3 first gen's all had to be re-cylindered, my '82 has had a new lock put in it, my '88 hatch gave up the ghost at 78,000 miles. Face it, they are p.o.s. locks. I have been driving my first gen '80 around with the switch removed from the lock, one screw, and using a screwdriver for a key while the locksmith beats his tool until he gets around to installing the lock that subaru3 was kind enough to send me.:banana: I vote junk, Bradd

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Im one of the guys that came on here saying the ign switch replacement stinks and that I would rather replace the column.

 

Its mostly true but I have gotten pretty good at them.

 

Patience and a small 10MM thin ignition wrench, along with a strong back and some patience can make the job pretty reasonable. You will be on your knees next to the vehicle to do it so bring something comfortable to buy yourself patience.

 

If you have a spare column and two locks and a helper, the column swap is easier. If you don't and you buy a new ignition switch or at least have one you KNOW is good then its a toss up.

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