This quote from McBrat was the best description of what I need to do, but I still have more questions:
well, there will be at a minimum 18 bolts that get replaced with longer ones.
you'll need the following blocks:
(2 blocks, 4 bolts) engine crossmember blocks. one long block each side where the crossmember mounts to the frame rails
(6 blocks, 6 bolts) radius rod blocks. 3 each side. where the plates that hold the swaybar/tranny crossmsmber attach to the body
(2 blocks) Strut block tops. new top bolts need to be offset to push in the struts at the top...
steering extension. unbolt the "T" piece, cut, extend 2", weld tube around the bar.
(4 blocks, 4 bolts) torsion bar. 2 blocks each side.
(2 blocks, 4 bolts) diff hanger blocks. 1 block each side.
shock extensions. original BYB kit came with a bottom extension, which worked fine unless you were carrying a LOT of weight. they never broke,but pivoted under the weight.
Mostly I wonder about how to do the top of the struts and the rear shocks.
For the strut tops do I turn a 3" thick disk in the lathe and run bolts all the way through it; or can I cut a rounded triangular block and do the same thing? And, did I read that there is a 22 degree angle to all of this? Does this mean that the strut has to stay at 22 degrees but the strut top is more or less on the same plane as the ground, or do I have to make my disk/triangle with a 22 degree angle as well?
For the rear shock, has anyone tried to drop the top mounting bracket down? I was thinking I could bolt and weld a steel plate in there, but need some advice in this department as well.
Finally, are there any other places that aren't just a matter of putting some sort of spacer block with longer bolts? Any comments on this would be a big help.
- James B