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Broken Timing Belt Idler, what to do.....


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Ok guys, I am looking for some help and advice here.......... Allow me to cut right to the chase and explain everything......

 

For a second winter car, I picked up a 1996 Subary Legacy 2.2, AWD Wagon. The car has 180,000 miles on it. I paid $500 for the car. It has new tires, one owner, and is VERY well maintaned. When I got it, it was due for a timing belt and it needed a clutch. I replaced both. After about a week of driving everything seemed fine on the car until last night. I was driving around when I heard a clunk and the motor stopped running.

 

I had a suspusion that it was the timing belt that I had just replaced, so I had it towed home and I took the timing cover off to discover that in fact the timimg belt was off, due to a missing pulley! Thats right, my geared idler pulley broke right out of the drivers side head! I am very mehcanically inclined, when I installed the timing belt, I was very careful to follow all the procedures in the Haynes manual to the letter.

 

 

You can see all the pictures of the damage here

 

I have almost $1000 invested in this car, between purchasing it, the clutch, timing belt, and tax/title/registration. This car was supposed to be a cheap winter car, its not going that way so far.

 

It looks like that to remove the heads on this car, the engine needs to be removed. I feel that I am capable of this. I have found these heads on eBay, I am not sure that this is a good deal though......... And I also need to see what he'll charge without a core, since one of my heads is F'ed.

 

Ebay Subaru Heads

 

The motor was in great running condition, so I think I would be fine with just new heads, but then a part of me figures if I have the engine out, why not get a better/newer one to put in......... (Or a WRX motor, I love swaps, but it is and needs to be a winter car)

 

My last option is to sell the car as is. I don't know that I would get all my money back, but maybe I can and should cut my losses.........

 

You guys seem like a knowledgable bunch and your input would be greatly appreciated.

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If it is part of the block then I am inclined to say go ahead, pull the engine and replace it. You could scout out a short block and stick your heads....etc on it or you could buy a complete engine and sell your old engine parts to offset the cost, ...or keep them for future repairs.

 

I have seen some engine carnage in my day but that is bad. If I had some cash and you lived near me I would buy it off you.

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Another thing I completly forgot to mention, what are the chances that the valves were damaged in the process? I was just pushing in the clutch at the time to shift into a lower gear, I would guess that the engine was at about 2k rpm, I didn't hear any weird noises, with the exception of the initial 'pop"

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Another thing I completly forgot to mention, what are the chances that the valves were damaged in the process? I was just pushing in the clutch at the time to shift into a lower gear, I would guess that the engine was at about 2k rpm, I didn't hear any weird noises, with the exception of the initial 'pop"

You're lucky. 2.2L engines are non interference.

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The geared idler is attached to the water pump , Yes you will have to replace the waterpump , geared idler and maybe the T-belt if it was damaged (you may want to check the other idlers)

It is a non interference engine , so if the belt breaks or the idler lets go , no damage will occur at the valves

Stick the new parts in and if it's assembled correctly everything should last another 100k

SEA#3

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Wow, you guys have really saved my day! When I first realized that the water pump was actually the part that broke, I was a little relieved, but still worried about valve damage. Since my car was built in Jan of 1996, it sounds like it was a non interference engine. After rotating the cam pullies around, it doesn't sound like they are hitting anything. I am very excited that I can have my winter car again!

 

Thanks for all the help. I will make sure that I post this thread on my website, NewEnglandCustoms.com and put a big shout out to all you guys for the help!

 

Another quick question, I am assuming that the water pump does NOT come with that idler pulley? that must be a Subaru Dealer only item?

 

Thanks for all the help! :drunk:

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You should be able to tell if the valves are o.k. with compression gauge. When my Idle pully came apart on my 97 2.2 after getting it back together it would not start. I checked the compression on the cyclinders and only found compression on one cyclinder, I think it had around 150 p.s.i and the rest had none. I dont know if this works every time but it worked in my case. Of course if it starts you wont need to check it, and you cant check it untill it is back together.

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