15 replies to this topic

[beezer]

I have a 92 2.2L legacy.

A couple of weeks ago now the CEL came on. The codes 24 and 35 appeared.
From what I understood it was probably the fuel purge solenoid. I didn't replace it since it would only come on once and a while.

Two days ago the CEL came on again, and it won't go away. I still wasn't too concerned, I was going to replace the solenoid this week or next and see if that solved the problem. If it didn't then I would look into replacing the air control valve.

When I start the car when the engine is cold the rpm only rise to about 800-1000. There is a fairly strong smell of gas from the exhaust when the car is first started. Once the engine warms up it idles at 1200-1300 rpm, it will occassionally blip up and down betwenn 1200-1250 rpm. Then sometimes it idles around 2000 rpm then will quickly fall back down to 1200 rpm. The exhaust seems to be louder as well, not like a hole in the exhaust, but just louder. The car seems to drive OK when the rpms are kept higher than 2500 rpm. The mileage doen't seem to be affected too much.

Like I said this didn't concern me too much until I decided to pull the codes up tonight for some reason. The codes 11, 12, 24, 32, 35 appeared. These would be Crank Angle Sensor, Starter Switch, Air control valve, Oxygen sensor, Canister purge solenoid. I truly hope all this doesn't need replacing. Any light on this situation would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

[coloradosubarules]

I would reccomend changing the O@ sensor if you car is using mor gas than usual and it stinks like petro. I just changes mine on my 90 legacy with 239K miles.

I apologize for all the typing errors I made on this and all posts. I just got my new laptop and the keys seem to be closer to eash other and they are still a little stiff.

[Legacy777]

clear the codes, drive the car, and if the CEL comes back on, check codes again to verify the previous codes, or rule out the false ones.

[beezer]

Cleared the codes and 24 and 35 came back.

Few questions
1. The person I bought the car off of has a loyale....I think(could be a legacy, didn't take a close look, he said most of the parts would fit.). Would the parts off of this car fit if it is a 2.2L?

2. While I was checking all the hoses I noticed a black rubber square like piece that seems to be on the transmission. It is almost directly below the throttle body. Anyways it wasn't sitting in place correctly. what is it? Could this cause damage to the car?

[Legacy777]

No, the 1990 legacy, 2.2 engine was brand new and for the most part was considered the first of the "new gen subarus"

Can you take a pic of the piece in question?

Or possibly look through some of these pictures I took of my injector work and identify it

http://www.main.expe...mages/injectors

[beezer]

It is in the picture head/pass clean the 2nd one. It is the top left hand corner

[Legacy777]

You mean this thing?
http://www.main.expe...rs/DCP_2488.JPG

It's just a cover....nothing to worry about.

[beezer]

Keeps saying cannot find server. Seems like we are talking about the same thing I think though.Thanks again!

[Legacy777]

Your ISP is probably going through a proxy server and may not let port 8080 go through.

try this
https://www.mail.exp...rs/DCP_2488.JPG

[beezer]

Yeah that is it.

So would any 1990-1994 legacy do for parts? Does this include the turbo? Re:the air control valve and purge solenoid.

[Legacy777]

The idle air control valves were different on the US 1990-1991 MT n/a cars. They use an oscilating valve vs. a rotating valve. So you could use a valve from a US 1990-1991 AT n/a car and one from a US 1992-1994 MT & AT n/a car. The turbo valve may be the same with an addition of a check valve type thing, but I haven't dealt with them much.

[beezer]

Sorry I don't mean to beat this to death, but, the car started to behave normally today. I cleaned the throttle body with a throtle body cleaner I had laying around last night. I didn't think this would help, but, what the hay, I'm poor anything is worth a shot. I think it helped.

I'm pretty sure it is the air control valve that is causing the majority of the problems and not the fuel purge solenoid. I hooked the fuel canister directly to the throttle body, this made no difference in how the car behaved. I've read about people spraying brake cleaner into the air control valve, there are a lot of mixed reviews here. I think I might spray a little cleaner into the valve. Good idea?

Wow you know a lot about the legacy Josh.
Thanks for all your time

[Legacy777]

You don't really want to plug the canister directly into the TB.

I've done the brake cleaner thing on the IAC valve. I did it a while back when I had taken everything off. It did seem to help.

Might want to give it a shot and see. However if the code is being displayed for the IAC valve, more then likely there's some sort of electrical issue with it, and cleaning prob. won't do anything.

[beezer]

Just a little tid bit of information. I am pretty sure the air control valve and the purge solenoid are somewhat connected.

Here is my reasoning:
When the car starts to act up the codes 24 and 35 appear. When I hooked the fuel canister directly to the throttle body there was no change in how the car behaved. The 2 codes still appeared obviously, since the purge solenoid was not connected. I cleared the codes, hooked everything back up and started the car, everything was normal. I was getting the all clear signal from the car. I drove the car, shut it off then restarted it, started to act up again. Retrieved the codes, it came up 24 and 35 again. It is hard to believe that both sensors would work and fail at the same time if they were not cannected somehow. Probably not that useful, but, maybe it will help somebody somehow,

[Legacy777]

The sensors are not connected. The ECU is sort of weird in how codes get displayed. The canister purge solenoid can intermittantly set off the code to be displayed when it's on its way out.

I'd still suggest replacing the canister purge solenoid, and go from there.

[beezer]

OK I will believe you, it just seeems a little strange. This should have something to do with the engine running ever so slightly rich(if it was stuck open), which would in turn set off the air control valve, maybe? right? Maybe I am too stupid to understand computers? Anyways hope you are right with your 80$ fix instead of my 400$ fix. Actually I hope I am right. Just kidding you have been the best. I respect your opinion over most, thanks again for all your time. You are the kind of people that make this forum great!


Thanks again Brent