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Power windows again...


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35 replies to this topic

#26 subyfreak

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 03:54 AM

I have ran into nasty corroded green crap on the connector behind the drivers side kick panel along with the ones under the passenger seat on about 4 of my older ea82 Subies. You wont always see the damage without unplugging the connectors and looking close.

#27 Gloyale

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 01:02 PM

well well well

I have power all the way to the kick panel, it now seems it has to be exactly as you said, possibly in that short run from the kick panel, through the door frame...

It's pretty hard to see what might be going on. I was thinking the easiest way to deal with this would be to cut the red wire above the connector inside the car, splice a new wire on, and fish it through into the door. When the correct length is reached, splice above the connector in the door. By removing the tape and pulling the old wire clear while I worked, I'm sure I'd find the break in the insulation just as you described.


Try operating the windows while the door is fully open, if it works open, but then not as you close it, it is a sure sign. Although yours could be bad enough that it never makes contact.

What's really funny is both times I've seen this scenario, it was on 3-door coupes. Never seen this problem on a wagon.

Your idea of just running a new wire is right on. Just make sure you splice into the door harness side of the kick panel connector, that way if you ever have to replace door, you can simply unplug like factory.

#28 Txakura

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 02:56 PM

I have ran into nasty corroded green crap on the connector behind the drivers side kick panel along with the ones under the passenger seat on about 4 of my older ea82 Subies. You wont always see the damage without unplugging the connectors and looking close.


so far so good, everything I've checked - terminals and all - has been tightly packed with dielectric grease and corrosion free underneath

I wonder if that's because we don't salt the roads here?

#29 Txakura

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 04:44 PM

LMAO... I didn't have the right wire gauge to fix this, (on my way to the auto store)... I did use a wire to make a bypass and the driver window worked for the first time in two years... the passenger window did not work at all, so it seems like I can have one or the other, but not both at the same time.

and I had a flat... and there was a puddle of coolant under my water pump :lol:

I think the Loyale is trying to tell me it doesn't want to be fixed and is done driving for the winter

#30 Txakura

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Posted 23 January 2009 - 11:34 PM

What's really funny is both times I've seen this scenario, it was on 3-door coupes. Never seen this problem on a wagon.


Make it three coupes, it's official. I have bypassed the main power lead in the harness and got the driver window back, and bypassed the blu/blk and now have regained the up on the passenger side... for the first time in two years, I can run both windows from the master panel. I had two broken wires in the door harness, main power and pass up.

Thank's to all of you who helped me wade through this, we have left something useful for the next person who searches the threads for power window problems.

On that note, I leave with this

master panel wiring harness color code;

heavy red and black, master power and ground
wht/blu (changes to wht/blk after harness) - passenger window down
blu/blk - passenger window up

red,grn,ylw go to power window control unit under passenger seat right hand seat track, under carpet near door threshold (pull up sill plates, seat, carpet)

the forward most device is the resettable breaker, it should have 12v at all times, the middle device is the relay for the system, it will have 12 v when the key is 'on', the 2" x 2" black box is the window control module itself

the two black wires screwed down through the plate all the devices mount on are ground leads, check them for corrosion.

many people said the main power splices further towards the middle of the car and that they corrode like hell, if you have no power to the devices, follow the wiring under the carpet and re-read this thread for ideas

motor colors;

passenger door - blu/red and blu come off the passenger door switch to the window motor

driver door - blu, wht/red to the motor are actually coming all the way over from the power window control unit under the passenger side

all in all I'd say that if you are having problems with your master switch, I'd go right to the driver kick panel - door frame harness and make a bypass lead for testing - splicing in such a way that you can always go back and leaving yourself room to splice well away from the harness connectors - be careful and keep your options open - don't cut anything too short and make another problem


thanks gang :)

#31 Txakura

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Posted 26 January 2009 - 12:09 PM

%$#@ :horse:

oh but wait, it isn't over yet. after I ran my new wires through the door pillar from the kick panel to the door - the passenger side stopped working :banghead:

I re-did my splices and double checked my connections, but maybe yet a third wire has broken while I was steering the harness around

at this point I think the only way to deal with this is too take the door off, fish the harness out of the kick panel and cut the harness open and replace-a-way damn near every wire

of course it's -8 outside right now... maybe I can bring the door into my living room :grin:

and why do I want this fixed so badly in the winter? I run a delivery route in the car and need to be able to use both windows

#32 Txakura

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Posted 31 January 2009 - 10:04 PM

:banana: Found it after I pulled the door, when I replaced the two wires previously - the passenger side stopped altogether,
the driver still worked because it was grounding out through the system!

I put more pics in the repair section, maybe it'll help someone else, good call on the bundle fatigue Gloyale

Posted Image
I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires
broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years

#33 Gloyale

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 12:21 PM

:banana: Found it after I pulled the door, when I replaced the two wires previously - the passenger side stopped altogether,
the driver still worked because it was grounding out through the system!

I put more pics in the repair section, maybe it'll help someone else, good call on the bundle fatigue Gloyale

Posted Image
I cut the factory tape off and here is the whole problem, the wires
broke from rubbing on the edge of the door cutout after 19 years


Nice work. this could be a good addition to the USRM

#34 Txakura

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Posted 01 February 2009 - 01:03 PM

I put together some additional photos and a write up, I am pleased it was accepted into the USRM quite quickly. Today I might straighten a fender and do 'skip's cool turn signal mod', those will be other threads - of course.

#35 bwraven

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Posted 28 March 2009 - 07:51 PM

Thanks for all of the details above. It helped me troubleshoot and repair a power windows problem in my '85 GL wagon.

#36 kmckinney0126

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Posted 23 April 2009 - 09:43 PM

Thank you so much EVERYONE.

What a great contribution from everyone.

I just joined. : ) I am the not as proud owner of a bent up beat body salvaged titled 92 legacy and now the a very proud owner of a ea82 spfi 3 door coupe.

Guess what? Windows don't work.

So with all your help I'm sure I will have it tackled in no time.




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