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blown coil fuse?
Posted 07 December 2004 - 03:29 PM
I went snowboarding at MT baker sunday the snow was awsome. On the way home i noticed that i was loosing power and had to keep the car floored to keep the speed constant. I get to a stoplight and the car dies. it starts and I get it into a parking lot. Theres a huge lack of power. I pop the hood and start checking hoses for vacume leaks. Then i go start the car again and it cranks but wont even sputter, and the battery gadge in the car zeroed but the light isnt on. I pull the wire from the coil and the treminal end breaks off (i have a accel super stock, and accel 8mm wires they are a month old) I go buy a new coil and wires and put them in and the car still just cranks and wont sputter. I Check the fuse and 15a coil fuse is burnt and so i relplace it. Then the car starts but idle ruff and then dies. The carb clearly has vacume leak i cant seem to find it though sprade starting fuild all over and their was no change in the idle. Then i let it rest and now it seems that the coil isnt getting power again. THe fuse is fine. I was wondering if any one had ideas what down the line from coil casue it to first cook the terminal end of the wire and then blow the fuse. and keep power from getting to the coil at all.
Thanks a lot
Posted 07 December 2004 - 05:10 PM
Posted 07 December 2004 - 08:47 PM
Posted 14 December 2004 - 01:36 PM
Posted 14 December 2004 - 01:53 PM
Posted 14 December 2004 - 02:11 PM
Posted 18 December 2004 - 03:24 PM
Thanks a lot.
(this is all on my 83 gl 4wd wagon with a weber)
Posted 18 December 2004 - 04:22 PM
Sounds like you are describing a secondary (spark) distribution problem. Did you replace the distributer cap and rotor? How about plugs? And how strong was that spark that you saw?
How common is it for the internals of the distributor to go bad? Im getting spark from the coil to the distributor but then only spark at two of the plugs. All the wires, plugs, cap, rotor and coil are new and it still doesnt get spark to two of the plugs. My only guess is to replace the whole distributor. Sounds like a big job and didnt want to do it if others thought that it wasnt the problem.
Thanks a lot.
(this is all on my 83 gl 4wd wagon with a weber)
*edit sorry, I am tired and missed that you just said that the cap, rotor and plugs are new. Still worth checking, especially the plugs that can get wasted in just a few bad miles. end edit*
Posted 21 December 2004 - 08:14 PM
If you can help my e-mail is email@example.com
I would go to a junk yard but my schedule hasn't allowed it.
Posted 21 December 2004 - 08:44 PM
i have got a lot of parts from washington folks when i needed them so would gladly help you out if you had no alternative.
i think you could find a disty in a yard out there though, keep me in mind if you cant.
it is easy to swap out the whole disty. take of the cap and note the position that the rotor is pointing. draw a line on something if you have to.
disconnect the small power wires to the disty.
remove the two bolts that attach it to the block.
slowly pull it up, the rotor will turn a little as you remove it.
do not disturb the motor or crank it when disty is out!
put in new disty, teeth have to engage and rotor will turn a little when you get it down, you may have to monkey with it- you have to get the rotor pointing at the exact point that the old rotor was pointing so you do not mess up your timing.
hook everything back up and hopefully that will solve your problem.
not 100% sure the disty is your problem but hope this helps you out if you find out it is.
are any of the small wires going to the disty intermittantly shorting on anything?
Posted 21 December 2004 - 08:51 PM
someone else can correct me, i think the only diff. between 4wd disty and 2wd disty is the advance curve. so the disty may still work if you need it.
sorry for the mixup.
Posted 22 December 2004 - 01:28 PM
Posted 22 December 2004 - 02:21 PM
I am somewhat confused why you think pickup coil. You said that you are getting a strong spark from coil to ditributer cap, correct? I assume that is using the stock pickup coil and ignition module rather than bypassing both with wires that you are grounding manual.
... reading the trouble shooting part in my haynes manual it leads me to the pick up coil in the distributor...
If you are getting strong spark, then primary ignition components are probably good (exception would be intermittent/erratic operation). If strong spark to dist-cap, and weak/no spark to plug wires or plugs, sounds like problem in cap/rotor/wires/plugs.
If you need a disty, I have some '82s that I could loan you. (Might need them replaced eventually.) I will be out and about today and could drop one off.
Posted 22 December 2004 - 02:23 PM
What is the difference between the two distributors?...
I don't personally know, but I have heard several recommendations for performance increase to replace 4WD disty with a 2WD unit. Reason sited was better advance curves.
Posted 23 December 2004 - 02:53 PM
Thanks for all the help
Posted 23 December 2004 - 06:15 PM
this is typical nondiagnostic parts changing advice but- if you have access easily to another disty, i would pop it in and see if it solves your problem.
if not then you can rule it out.
if you have already changed cap, rotor, wires and plugs, and you only get spark on two plugs consistently- i think it is worth a shot to change the disty. should only take you 10 min or so.
if nothing changes, put the old one back in and go from there, repost and maybe someone will come up with a better idea.
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