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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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Timing marks on a EJ 25 DHOC


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7 replies to this topic

#1 gsrxrsx68

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Posted 08 December 2004 - 07:02 PM

Can anyone explain the timing belt marks for this engine. The single marks on the top pulleys do not line up with the notches at the same time, although they appear to be off by less than one tooth. What about the double marks, how and when should they line up.

Also does the coolant overflow tube require a clamp where it comes out of the radiator?

These questions relate to my post "new timing belt, then started overheating"

#2 Legacy777

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 09:12 AM

you might want to try scoobymods.com They may have timing belt scans that show what to do with the DOHC setup, or search. I think it's been covered.

Yes there should be a clamp on the radiator hose.

#3 gsrxrsx68

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 10:36 AM

Thanks, I found some good info at endwrench.com(?).

I was wondering about that clamp. If air was introduced at that connection could it cause overheating?

The story I got from the people who replaced the timing belt was that they didn't touch any part of the cooling system when doing the timing belt. Kinda funny denial. Just for fun let's count the "touches":

1. The timing belt accross the water pump.

2. The coolant reservoir.

3. The fan assembly.
4. It looks like they took the upper radiator hose off(the clamp bolt is shiny clean and the rubber deformation through the hose clamp slots doesn't match up.)

I guess he meant he didn't get any coolant on his hands or something. Seriously, I have no idea why someone would claim to have not touched something when they obviously did.

#4 Gnuman

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Posted 09 December 2004 - 11:51 AM

Thanks, I found some good info at endwrench.com(?).

I was wondering about that clamp. If air was introduced at that connection could it cause overheating?

The story I got from the people who replaced the timing belt was that they didn't touch any part of the cooling system when doing the timing belt. Kinda funny denial. Just for fun let's count the "touches":

1. The timing belt accross the water pump.

2. The coolant reservoir.

3. The fan assembly.
4. It looks like they took the upper radiator hose off(the clamp bolt is shiny clean and the rubber deformation through the hose clamp slots doesn't match up.)

I guess he meant he didn't get any coolant on his hands or something. Seriously, I have no idea why someone would claim to have not touched something when they obviously did.


So they won't have to fix what they broke?

#5 Storm

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Posted 10 December 2004 - 01:04 AM

I noticed this too. I checked and double-triple checked all the marks to make sure they were correct. I found the same thing with the LH intake cam not lining up perfectly. It's off by less than a tooth, but the motor seems to run fine regardless. That single cam pulley mark, when lined up perfectly with the beltcover mark makes the double marks line up perfect, but the mark on the belt won't line up. Fitting the belt mark closest to the single mark on the pulley pushes the double marks off by half a tooth. I think the tensioner recovers most, if not all of this slack when fully extended.

Is this what you encountered?


As for the clamp on the overflow tube....The mech probably dropped it and kicked it into a drain somewhere. It should have a clamp, but it shouldn't need a super tight connection like a upper/lower rad. hose.

#6 gsrxrsx68

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Posted 10 December 2004 - 06:32 PM

Yeah, exact same thing. I looked at it for a while until I thought of whether or not it would be better if it were over one tooth or not. On one side it was a no, on the other side it was a probably not. My engine runs fine, but is not. HG is definately blown. I figure it was already blown when I got the main crakseal fixed. The crank seal appeared to fail all at once, during an extended drive. As soon as a new seal was put in oil and exhaust gases showed up in the cooling system causing overheating. My theory has evolved to believe that the super hot exhaust gases led to both of these problems. I guess I am thinking the ehaust gases escaping the head seal was looking for the path of least resistence.

I have looked at all the solutions to thos problem and have come to the conclusion that this engine is a POS. That is what I get for being an uneducated comsumer. I didn't realize this motor had these problems. I wouldn't have paid for the crank seal and timing belt had I known about this. $350 for that, $1100 for an HG, valves job $450 and I still have a spent motor with 130K on it. I looked at doing a hack job(just a HG while leaving the motor in place) not even possible and also a terrible idea. To me the only option is reman motor with a warranty($3000 and a lot of wrench time).

Anyway, that's life.

#7 Clutchbob

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 09:29 AM

Sorry to hear about your H/G failure. Join the club...

http://mysite.verizo...eplacement.html

The coolant overflow tube is on the other side of the pressure cap. Just normal atmospheric pressure here, does it really need a clamp?

I've read where counting teeth between marks is the best method of timing belt positioning.

Incidentally, in the two weeks since I signed the H/G Guestbook, there have been 17 new entries.

#8 gsrxrsx68

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Posted 12 December 2004 - 12:52 PM

Great site. I saw a reference on your site to replacing the hg with the engine in car. Is that possible? I really don't feel like pulling the motor or have a good place to do it. If it could run til summer I would be happy. Is it predominately the passenger side HG?




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