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To Buy new or replace the seals, Oil pump?


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Ok all you ea82 guys out there....

After all this tinkering with noisy valve train , I have finally narrowed it down to , and I hope , its the oil pump airation.

I dgreased the entire undercarrtiage and drove it for a few days and noticed oil and wetnes at the base of the timing caovers, I suspect oil leakage from multiple gaskets and seals.

So anyway, since the oil pumps are mechanical , how often do the pumps go bad.

I mean my 70 VW Bug has mech pumps and they almost never go bad.

The manual says to measure the depth of the cavity and the depth of the shaft for wear , but it seems like this kind of wear would be next to nil.

I think Ill be ok just replacing the MM seal and gaskets and all the other seals under my timing belt as well as the belts and water pump.

I am going to document this Via my Digi cam and I will submit it to the tech column .

 

:confused:

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just drop the hammer and buy a new unit...

 

autozone has melling oil pumps which are brand new for around $80, i bought mine after battling the lifter noise for 7 months and with the turn of a key it was gone after the replacement...

 

i never messed around with "resealing" or anything, id rather pay the extra money and have piece of mind...

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Brian's right. Just did my ea-81 oil pump and it took about 10 minutes to re-seal. Just 2 o-rings inside the pump body, 2 o-rings and a gasket on the body to engine side and you're done. EA-82 I'm sure is not much different. I was going to spend the $50 from autopartsworld.com, but I took a chance and spent under $5 for the re-seal kit and it was so easy. Try the $5 kit first.

 

Chris:banana:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hey, overkiller -- go down the list a few postings, to "What tools do I need to replace T.Belt?". Oregonloyale is doin' the Oil Pump seals and we talked about the steps.

 

http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3204

 

It's not tough, in fact the worst part of the whole thing is cleaning all the parts before reinstalling.

 

The seal/gasket kit for an EA82 has a seal (for the oil pump drive shaft), an O-ring (for the body of the pump that inserts into the boss in the block), and a Mickey-Mouse gasket for the mating surfaces. 5 bolts hold the pump on; there are two cut-outs on the rim of the drive sprocket that, when you line them up properly, let you get the two worst bolts out.

 

Clearances for the pump rotors are almost zero, they float on a film of oil. So cleaning is critical, don't want any grit in the pump or the rotor housing. Wipe a film of oil on before bolting 'em back in.

 

-- Mark

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Replace the pump! The pump starts sucking air because of wear between the shaft and the body of the pump. O-rings and seal can't fix that.

 

EA81 pumps are totaly different. They are driven directly off the cam, so they don't have the side load from the timing belt like EA82's.

 

It ain't no 10 minute job on an EA82.

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