Subarutex Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Ok, I've been given the green light to go ahead and order a megasquirt. Of course, i'm going the easy way, and buying it preassembled. I'm not confident of my soldering abilities, and also want to cut out a lot of possible troubleshooting. I'm looking to run EDIS. In fact, i already have the module, and coil pack. JUst need to go to NAPA to pick up my sensor and ring... then figure out a way to magically meld the ring onto the crank. I'm buying the "kit" from http://www.rs-autosport.com/ Includes prelabeled wires for harness, connector, and assembled megasquirt. Just to double check i really know whats going on, the MS i'm looking at getting will be configured in the following way: MSnS firmware MSnEDIS hardware mod Is this correct? The stock coolant temp sensor will work with MS, right? And I'll need to pick up a GM air temp sensor... will i need a special connector for this? I'm also contemplating getting the relay board kit (from glensgarage.com) and using that. Oddcomp doesn't use the relay board I do believe. Garner, do you? I was thinking it would be the cleaner simpler way to do it, but i'm also cheap, so if its not that needed I won't do it. Thanks for your input! Merry Christmas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Tex, I am running MS & S extra code. (yes, actually running in the Brat) See this page for more info about MS & S extra http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/index.html The hardware mod is crucial and if you dig around that site in the setting up page there are actually two ways to make the hardware mod. I am using the "old" way, running spoark out the Fast Idle pin. On our cars, we don't need fast idle control, just 12v+ and ground to the Aux Air Valve. The "new" way runs the spark control out one of the LED pins. I don't really see one being better than the other in our application. As for the code, don't worry too much about how it comes from the builder. By the time you get it and install it there will likely be a new code version or two. This stuff moves really quick and one of the things you'll need to do is load and upgrade the code your self. In fact, this is how you make the Subaru stock coolant temp sensor work. Yes, I do use the relay board. I think it makes for a cleaner and simpler install and offers some "oh s*%t" protection if you get some wires crossed or something. It has built in relays and fuses for protection. It is a really easy soldering project too... It is a few $$ but I think it's well worth it. I've ordered a Tech Edge Wide Band O2 sensor kit and will be building it and using it to get some good maps built. Since we have virtually the same set up, I'll be happy to share my maps with you for a starting point. In the mean time, get the newest version of Megatune and test drive it and get to know what it offers and what you have to plug into it in terms of values. Just a little home work while your waiting for hardware. Man, it's a bit of work but you're going to love it garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Oh, and what are the part #s and prices for the trigger wheel and VR sensor from Napa? garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted December 17, 2004 Author Share Posted December 17, 2004 NAPA part numbers are: CSS304 = wheel ($10) (the wheel has a large hole, about 1" in the middle) CSS411 = sensor ($25) (body diameter is about .50" instead of .625" for the Escort sensor) Thanks for the reply Garner. I'll go with the relay board, doesn't look that complex to do. How much did you end up paying for the techedge kit? I've looked at it before, but i alwayd get crossed up converting AU to US monies. Probally will be a month or so till I recieve the MS. In the meantime i should put the engine back together (HG's finally came today). I'll download the megatune software and start playing around with it, getting aquainted with it. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Tex, when you can finally figure out how much it is, let me know! I'm like totally lost on this whole setup and I'm looking for a simple plug and play action with none of the sodering crap:D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 yea pretty much what garner said i ran a basic ms box and did the edis mods myself.. actually hell i made the whole thing so i just modded it as i got there the napa wheel is smaller if i remember right and also is not as open in the middle like the stock escort part i use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garner Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 Tex, I paid $165.50 shipped for the DIY Kit with cable. It is supposed to be a pretty heavy soldering job but I'm up for it. I skipped the display as I will tune via megatune and use my Autometer AFR as the in dash display. It will be a much more accurate real time display getting simulated NB voltage. The sensor itself is from 1stvwparts.com (1stsubarupars.com is the same dealership) VW parts # 021-906-262-B (about $45 shipped) Its the Bosch LSU4 WB sensor and for what ever reason, VW sells them as OEM parts for about half price..... For the Megatune software for use with MS&Sextra, get the latest version from this page... http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/files/ I'm using version 225b326, it looks like 225b331 is even newer, like I said, this stuff moves quick..... garner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooziewhatsit Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 If anyone uses the MegaJolt system (for ignition timing), my friend wrote a windows based program to replace the java one it comes with. It does some stuff the java program doesn't, which makes it kinda nice, just an FYI... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caboobaroo Posted December 17, 2004 Share Posted December 17, 2004 hmmm maybe I'll have a couple of you guys live in my car to help me figure all of this out because all of whats being said is right over the top of my head......guess maybe a computer course in highschool might have helped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subarutex Posted December 18, 2004 Author Share Posted December 18, 2004 On the napa ring... did you just sandwhich it behind the crank pulley? or how did you do it? I'm cheap, but only to a point. I'm not confident enough in my soldering skills to solder on the board. I've tried doing some kits like that, and just really had a struggle with it. On the flip side, I'm fairly good at soldering lines together... and i just recently made a cable to remote mount a cd player faceplate using some db15 plugs. Took me a while, but I was able to solder those... I think its just my own lack of confidence keeping me from soldering the MS myself. Its not something i want to get frustrated with, and discouraged, so I'll gladly pony up some extra cash to get a guaranteed working unit. Side note... engine is back together with copper hg's and new oem head bolts. Will be dropping it in tomorrow hopefully... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 *subscribes ro read later* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oddcomp Posted December 18, 2004 Share Posted December 18, 2004 i think everyone know hows mine is done but in case the last belt thing is turned down for the original escort ring to fit and its attached ..in the end after other attempts.. by 4 sorta even spaced screws the water pump pulley has been modifed i cut the back belt rib off that so it did not tear up the ring teeth and i drove and spot wlded 4 1/8 inch pins into the pulley to lock together the two sections of the stock ea82t pulley <this heavy kind witht he rubber stuff in it> to keep the timing from "slipping" shadows way i don't think will suffer from teh slip problem i had since i think.. his will be attached to the center part of the pulley where as mine is attached to the outer part Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WJM Posted December 19, 2004 Share Posted December 19, 2004 Looks like im going to extend my wait for MSDIS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.