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93 Loyale wiring diagram please?


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37 replies to this topic

#1 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 03:36 PM

Does anyone have a link to a schematic/wiring diagram for a 1993 Loyale 4door Wagon- manual transmission? I need some help!

Fuel is not getting delivered through the Injector!

I also have an issue with my parking lights not turning off and I cannot find the connector to plug the Code Reader into! So a wiring diagram would go a long ways towards helping me.

thanks. sub

#2 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 03:49 PM

I have a drawing for an '88 model that may be close to your model.

One thing that can cut the fuel delivery is the lack of spark. Have you checked that spark is occuring while this problem happening?

As far as your parking lights staying on I would check the light switch on the top of the steering column to see it that is on.

#3 hush777

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 03:55 PM

Cougar's diagram should work for all of your system except the auto seatbelt stuff. The signal for the injectors to open comes from the ditributor and the ignitor.


Hush

#4 brus brother

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 03:58 PM

http://www.main.expe...u_manual_scans/
The above link (courtesy of Moderator Legacy777) is for a variety of FSM including electrical for 92. Might be of help. I wish these type documents could be gathered together and made available more obviously in Repair and Mods or under their own heading! Santa, are you still around?

#5 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:00 PM

Can you post the diagram that you have or email it to me at scottyd9@nventure.com. I appreciate your help.

#6 hush777

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:07 PM

BTW Your loyale is considered a old gen wagon as it is the ea82 body style.


New Gen is legacy, impreza, outback, forester stuff.

Hush

#7 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:09 PM

I can try to scan it a send it to you. Do you know if the engine is getting spark?

#8 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:19 PM

The engine will start and run for about 2-3 seconds- If raw gas is poured down the throat of the carb, it will stay running unti my small can of fuel is used up.

#9 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:26 PM

So the ignition is ok then. You may have a bad fuel pump. One easy thing you can do is to see if the pump is running is to turn the key to the run position and listen for a slight hum from the pump motor as it charges the system. This will only happen for a couple of seconds. You may have to try to start the engine and then turn the key off and then to on and listen if the pressure is up already.

#10 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:29 PM

I can hear the pump run and have loosened the clamp on the fuel line at the Injector- Fuel squirts out!

#11 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:33 PM

It seems that the injector is not opening for some reason then. This could be because the signal is not getting to the injector or the injector is bad. Do you have a multimeter to check this out and know what to check for?

#12 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:37 PM

Please Standby, Owners Are Checking Their Vehicles.

#13 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:48 PM

Did you read my post #11 Subpennyman?

#14 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:49 PM

I have a multimeter and know how to use it. Just let me know what pins to check and what resistance should I be looking for?

I also found a '92 subaru manual. It talks about performing various checks (U-check,read memory, and D-check) using test mode and read memory plugs coinciding with flashing of check engine and O2 light. Going to run the tests now. Be back shortly

Thanks
Sub

#15 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 04:58 PM

Great! Things should be going good now.

I'm not real sure what the resistance of the injector coil should be but I seem to recall it is around 70 ohms and if you have a reading close to that then I would think that the injector is most likely ok and then check the signal to it. I assume that this engine only has one injector and is not multipoint injected.

If you want to check the voltage getting to the injector then you could remove the lead and check the DC voltage while trying to start the engine. Not sure what the meter will read as this will be DC pulsing signal but I would guess around 5 volts.

Did you check your light switch on the steering column?

#16 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 05:05 PM

Reading 5 volts on 2 pair of wires in the harness going to the single injector.


The resistance on the injector- dont have precise readings but assuming there should be 2 coils of resistance to match the harness wiring- one coil has a higher reading than the other.

Havent had time to look at the light issue- in fact laights dont matter if the car doesnt move!?

Sub

#17 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 05:07 PM

What were the readings of the two coils?

Edit: As far as the light switch is concerned. If the lights are staying on while the vehicle is off then you really do need to check that switch position on top of the steering column.

#18 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 05:36 PM

While waiting for your response I got out my manual and it only shows one pair of wires going to the injector. These tie to pins 43 and 48 of the SPFI unit.

#19 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 05:56 PM

Light problem fixed. ID 10 T error. It was the switch-operator error.

Injector problem: (1 Wire bundle - 4 wires 4 pins.) One set has higher resistance than the other.

Note: red light on ECU is flashing 5 rapid flashes. I couldn't find the test connectors mentioned in the '92 series repair manual. Not sure if the '93 has the same configuration.

Not sure if this helps, but there is a two wire device with vacuum lines running to it- it was clicking about every 1.5 seconds- has a black round cap(?) that can be rotated- on left side of engine on top of intake manifold just to the right of the front left cylinder.

BTW- the wiring diagram we have been working with is for a Legacy-we have a Loyale.

Sub and son

#20 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 06:06 PM

What was the resistance of each of the coils? I assume that the harness is removed while taking the reading.

#21 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 06:32 PM

I am unable to get good readings on my hand held VOM. The X1 scale cannot be adjusted for zero ohms with the leads shorted! My x100 scale works ok and I get 4400 on one coil pair and a short on the other pair. Harness is removed.

Sub

#22 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 06:38 PM

Let me run some extension cords and take my digital 60 cycle DVM out and get some good #'s- Stand by.

Sub.

#23 subpennyman

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 06:47 PM

.12 ohms on the upper pair and 4.4k ohms on the lower pair.

#24 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 07:10 PM

As far as the ECU codes, I think that five pulses are normal and it means there are no troubles reported. Not certain on that though.

#25 Cougar

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Posted 26 December 2004 - 07:17 PM

Wow, those resistance readings are not anything like I would expect. Does your manual say anything about what the readings should be? It sounds like the injector is bad but I would try to verify that against a new one if possible.

To fix your ohmmeter you need a new battery that is used for the lower scale readings. The battery voltage is too low to set the zero on it.




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