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Posted 29 December 2004 - 03:37 PM
Also, there are 3 dif. results for the oil filter, 2 are almost $30 and 1 is $5; Any clue as to which is the one I need?
Posted 29 December 2004 - 03:42 PM
All the oil changes in my old 87 GL I used a fram filter from schucks......and I'm about to change the oil in my 92 Loyale.
Hi-jack of thread over.....
Posted 29 December 2004 - 03:54 PM
Posted 29 December 2004 - 04:03 PM
I'm not gonna stress over a few bucks buying online.
Posted 29 December 2004 - 04:11 PM
Posted 29 December 2004 - 04:41 PM
Posted 29 December 2004 - 05:20 PM
Santa Claus lives!
Posted 29 December 2004 - 08:43 PM
The black or blue ones are genuine JDM Subaru, and made my Nippon...These are the filters you want.
Posted 29 December 2004 - 09:10 PM
Posted 29 December 2004 - 10:06 PM
After about 10 years, um, actually it was about 10 months but it felt like 10 years I began to lengthen the time between oil changes. My ultimate solution was to switch to 20-50 weight and now I let the oil go 5,000-10,000 miles between changes. The key point to remember is as older cars burn and leak more oil than newer cars, the car is continuously going through an oil change AS LONG AS YOU DON'T LET THE OIL GET LOW! Never lower than a quart down then put another quart in and you're good to go for a while.
Just hit 257,000 miles on the original engine.
Posted 30 December 2004 - 12:14 AM
Ed, why such a funny oil change schedule?
Posted 30 December 2004 - 04:45 AM
oh, and i was just wonderin.. did you pick up that 83 wagon in washington. i seem to remember running into someone down at hellgate conoco this past summer who had just picked up a wagon like that in washington or oregon or something. anyways... nice rig..
Posted 30 December 2004 - 05:37 AM
Most of the top end filters use an anti-backflow(I think that is the correct term) valve as that is one of the main benefits of the OEM filter. Almost all the bottom end filters do not have this. What this means is those without the valve allow the oil to drain out of the filter and subsequently out of the oil pump.(read, dry start up)
Also, thicker oil in the winter is very hard on the engine. Ever notice how thick it is when you add oil when it is freezing? That is what it looks like in your engine. 20w-50 in the summer and 10w-40 in the winter.
Now considering that I am not an engineer(nor do I want to be) these are solely my opinions.
Posted 30 December 2004 - 07:51 AM
Posted 30 December 2004 - 11:55 AM
I have noticed that on start up until the car is warm oil pressure is up around the top of the gauge (85psi I think), then when it warms up it drops to normal at the same rpm's..........
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