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The backlighting for the fuel gauge on the wife's 99 OB is out. Is this an easy fix? Is it actual bulbs in there or do they use some other method? Do you need to remove the dash or can you get in underneath. Just wondering if anyone has done this before I start looking under there while out in the cold. Thanks.

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The backlighting for the fuel gauge on the wife's 99 OB is out. Is this an easy fix? Is it actual bulbs in there or do they use some other method? Do you need to remove the dash or can you get in underneath. Just wondering if anyone has done this before I start looking under there while out in the cold. Thanks.

 

I just did this on my wife's 98 OBW. You cannot access the instrument cluster bulbs by reaching in from behind. The instrument cluster assembly has to be removed from the dash, which is really not that difficult (but IS a little time-consuming). You should also be aware that the job of removing/reinstalling the cluster can be less clumsy if the steering column is lowered--not simply by tilting it down but by removing the two 12mm bolts that secure it to the dash bracing. If you're still interested, let me know and I'll continue......

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I just did this on my wife's 98 OBW. You cannot access the instrument cluster bulbs by reaching in from behind. The instrument cluster assembly has to be removed from the dash, which is really not that difficult (but IS a little time-consuming). You should also be aware that the job of removing/reinstalling the cluster can be less clumsy if the steering column is lowered--not simply by tilting it down but by removing the two 12mm bolts that secure it to the dash bracing. If you're still interested, let me know and I'll continue......

Just to add to this piece of very good advice : it may be not necessary to «remove» the two bolts securing the steering column. When I installed a tach on my Brighton, it was sufficient to slack them a few turns to have the column clear the cluster. Much easier to reinstall afterwards.

My .02$

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I just did this on my wife's 98 OBW. You cannot access the instrument cluster bulbs by reaching in from behind. The instrument cluster assembly has to be removed from the dash, which is really not that difficult (but IS a little time-consuming). You should also be aware that the job of removing/reinstalling the cluster can be less clumsy if the steering column is lowered--not simply by tilting it down but by removing the two 12mm bolts that secure it to the dash bracing. If you're still interested, let me know and I'll continue......

Please do continue. You have my complete attention. Thanks for your time (boy do I hate working under dashes).

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Please do continue. You have my complete attention. Thanks for your time (boy do I hate working under dashes).

When you said "boy do I hate working under dashes", I feel your pain. that kind of thing was a lot easier for me when I was in my twenties. But then, cars were simpler in the early 80's.....

 

Luckily, this job doesn't require too much "under the dash" work:

 

(ignition obviously "off", consider disconnecting battery)

 

1. remove trim panel under steering column (remove 2 large phillips screws, then give a firm pull on each end of trim panel to dislodge 2 trim clips that "force fit" into slots in dash panel). You can leave the trim panel laying on the floor as there are harnesses/relays attached to it.

 

2. When you look where the steering column passes thru the dash, you will see two 12mm bolts that hold the column to the dash support. You should consider getting under the dash just to note how those bolts are installed. I removed those two 12mm bolts using a socket, and a ratchet with an extension. Its actually easy to do this while in the driver's seat, as you can see the bolts thru the opening in the dash. The bolt on the right side was a little tougher to access because it's partially obscured by a wiring harness.

KEEP IN MIND NOT TO PINCH ANY HARNESS!! When the bolts are removed, the column only drops an inch or two, but it's enough. You might try what Gilles suggested and loosen but not completely remove the bolts (they're fairly long bolts) but I removed them completely on my wife's car....

 

3. remove 4 phillips screws securing the instrument cluster "surround trim" panel (the black plastic panel going around the circumfrence of the cluster--it's the panel that the cruise, fog lamp, rear defrost, and security switch (if you have that option) are located in. Two of the screws face upward, above the speedo and tach--use a short phillips screwdriver to remove them. The other two screws are at the bottom left and right side of the panel.

 

4. The cluster surround panel will slide out, then the connectors must be disconnected from each switch. Each connector has a locking "tab" that has to be pressed very firmly before the connector will separate from each switch.

 

5. Remove the four phillips screws that retain the cluster to the dash. Tilt the top edge of the cluster downward while pulling the cluster out toward you. There are four connectors that plug into the cluster (two on the right side of it, one on the left side, and a little blue one in the back). These connectors also have locking tabs that must be pressed firmly before sliding each connector out of the cluster. After the connectors are pulled loose, remove the cluster by CAREFULLY manuvering it out past the steering wheel TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE CLUSTER LENS. IT'S ALSO IMPORTANT TO BE GENTLE WITH THE PRINTED CIRCUIT ON THE BACK OF THE CLUSTER.

 

6. Once the cluster is out, you can see the bulb sockets on the back. (Don't freak out if you see open holes with no sockets in them--that's normal) The bulb sockets simply twist about 1/4 turn to unlock or lock them into the printed circuit. NOTE THAT THERE ARE TWO DIFFERENT KINDS OF BULBS: #74 and #158. I found both available at a local AutoZone store. As I recall, there are only two of the #158 bulbs. The rest are the smaller bulb #74. The bulbs simply pull straight out of the sockets. You can sort-of tell which bulbs serve as back-lighting illumination and which serve as warning lamp bulbs. If in doubt, shine a flashlight thru the bulb holes in a dark area to see "what lights up". THE BACK-LIGHTING BULBS ARE COVERED WITH A TINY BLUE "BULB CONDOM" that tints the bulb to the correct color for back-lighting. Normally, you would transfer the little blue bulb cover to the new bulb. On my wife's car however, heat from the bulbs over time had caused the rubber covering to simply crumble. Worst case: if you don't reinstall the blue "bulb condoms", the back lighting will be brighter than it used to be. But don't leave one back-lighting bulb covered and the rest un-covered. That'll obviously result in uneven back-lighting.

 

7. CONSIDER REPLACING ALL BACK-LIGHTING BULBS WHILE YOU HAVE THE CLUSTER OUT.

 

Hope this helps...feel free to write back if any questions. Mark

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