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You had the trans fluid and filter changed where? Subaru dealer??
I had my tranny fluid and filter changed by my local mechanic. I've been going to him a few years and his work has always been top notch. He works on a lot of foreign cars (including my maxima) and I've never had any problem with his work. I haven't spoken to him yet but the invoice claims he changed the fluid and filter and I specified that I wanted only subaru parts.

 

Also, I clarified with my wife, she only first noticed the problem about a month ago. Which means that she's was driving about 6 months after the fluid and filter were changed with no problems.

 

The car has about 66,000 miles on it.

 

So if my tranny fluid and filter were changed 7 months ago, what do you think the problem is?

 

Thanks again for your input.

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I'm not sure I saw a post in this thread regarding "hesitation of the AWD". Isn't everyone posting here referring to the automatic transmission delaying before going into gear, or slipping out of gear when stopped?

I didn't see any mention of "hesitation of the AWD" ...I was replying to the hesistation B4 going into gear.

 

I'll be trying a new filter and see how that does...my wife said that it does seem a little better since getting the tranny flush....so maybe a filter will take care of the rest

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I had my tranny fluid and filter changed by my local mechanic. I've been going to him a few years and his work has always been top notch. He works on a lot of foreign cars (including my maxima) and I've never had any problem with his work. I haven't spoken to him yet but the invoice claims he changed the fluid and filter and I specified that I wanted only subaru parts.

 

Also, I clarified with my wife, she only first noticed the problem about a month ago. Which means that she's was driving about 6 months after the fluid and filter were changed with no problems.

 

The car has about 66,000 miles on it.

 

So if my tranny fluid and filter were changed 7 months ago, what do you think the problem is?

 

Thanks again for your input.

When you're checking the transmission fluid level, are the engine and transmission fully warmed up, idleing in "P" with the vehicle parked on a level surface? Did technician refill with recommended Dexron III fluid??

Also--did you look at the new transmission filter (and your invoice) to make sure the filter was genuine Subaru? If you're positive the fluid level is full when the transmission is hot with vehicle on a level surface, and the new filter is genuine Subaru, I'm afraid I'm out of ideas on this one........

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Another thing to consider is AT temperature. When it is too hot, it will have that shifting delay due to slippage of clutches. I had it in my mazda for several months before the tranny finally died of overheating. That was my first AT, so I was clueless. Now, I am extra carefull and I put in an synth ATF, AT cooler and AT temp gauge, especially since I do some towing from time to time. So far so good (55000 miles).

 

You can buy a $40 radioshack IR thermometer that is fun to play with but also suitable to give you some ideas about how hot the tranny gets. I know that subarus have that AT temp warning light but I was not able to find out the exact temp that triggers the light. The light may well be too late warning.

 

And finally, one more thought. There are several active threads about failing AT right now. How many of these folks changed fluid every 15000/30000 miles (severe/normal service) as the subaru manual requires?

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  • 6 months later...

Hello,

my 99 forester with 62k was delaying going into drive from p,n or r. I followed mwatt's advice. solved my delay problem. my atf was discolored yellow/brown and smelled bad. drained it the first time 4qts 1 cup came out. same amount of new dextron iii went in. this helped the problem out in itself after only 10 or so miles of driving. drove it a week about 180 miles. drained the pan then pulled the screw on atf filter. 6 qts 1.5 cups drained out total. torqued on new subaru atf filter $40 to 120 in-lbs. added 6.25 qts new atf fluid. tranny shifts like new and no hesitation going into D. If you guys have this problem try this b4 spending big $ on rebuilding the tranny. This is a easy job to do yourself, will cost about $60. you will need 11 qts of atf.

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It might be just me but I don't share all that entusiasm about simple preventive maintenace "fixing" "a big problem". If the maintenance was done regularly every 30000 miles, as recommended by SOA, there would be no problem to begin with.

 

I fully agree. When we bought our '99 Legacy GT (the car I've referred to in previous posts here) last Sept the previous owner showed me his maint records---and the trans fluid had not been changed (115K miles). I used that as leverage to talk him down on the price. And I've changed the trans fluid on it one more time (early August) since I wrote about it back in January (just because it's so easy to do and the fluid is pretty cheap). The trans still goes into gear immediately. I still think fresh fluid has "swelled up" shrunken seals.

 

On my wife's 98 Outback that we've owned since new (and I've changed the fluid on it every 25-30K) the transmission has never been a problem.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, here's a follow-up: Yes, I know it's been a crazy long time to have gotten around to this, but hey, family keeps me busy! I replaced both filter and fluid (about 5qrts), drove about 100mi, and all is markedly better. The hesitation is largely down to <3 sec., if at all. It was 15-45 sec, sometimes not all without some throttle.

 

Upon inspection, the filter is just a paper filter with a screen. I got the OEM filter here and an independent general mechanic I trust did the swap. With only half the fluid changed, I am witnessing a 95% improvment. When I first brought this to my sube dealer, they did a "power" flush, and the hesitation got progressivly worse from there. In hindsight, It makes me wonder if they even did it. They never boned me before, but there's a first time for everything.

 

Is it possible that the old filter gasket was seeping causing a pressure loss even thought there was not a trans fluid leak? I just can't understand why a partial fluid change and new filter makes such a huge difference vs a complete flush.

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