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Loyale acceleration hesitation


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Now I know these cars' 1.8ers don't have much accelerating power, but there are seriously times when I will hit the gas and for a good 2-3 seconds NOTHING will happen.

 

Now that I've put in the usual performance coil, plugs, wires, filter, etc., the hesistations have lessened. I now have a nice low-end torque kick. But every once in a while (while still being annoyingly often), my engine just won't give a damn I've just hammered the pedal to the floor. Then, after a couple seconds, it'll surge and climb 1000rpm in a split second.

 

Is all this just because my engine is small, or could there be issues with fuel delivery, such as a dirty injector? Does the O2 sensor contribute? I know mine is funky since I'm only getting 20-22mpg on a relatively smooth running car. Ignition timing needs to be adjusted? Would raising that and running 90-92 octane be beneficial? Or is my transmission funky? Thank you for your help.

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No, no codes at all. Had one for the EGR solenoid when I got the car 3000 miles ago, but pulled one off a junker and wiped the codes. Been fine now.

 

Previous owner seemed to have forgotten a lot of basic maintenance, so I'm sure there's all kinds of smaller things in non-optimal condition. I'm just wondering which might affect the cars acceleration in such a way.

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Mine was also like you described, when the ignition timing was incorrect. Be sure to set it properly, and to use good spark plugs. I also would check the fuel filter and the fuel pump operating pressure.

 

Hope this helps!

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I'm not an expert on transmissions, so there's only little I can tell. The first time I drive the car in the morning I usually get the hesistation at it's worst. I'll be going down the road at a low speed, and when I hit the main road and want to jet out, it's like the car will speed up a bit, and then just hit a wall. It stays at the same RPM for 2-3 seconds, and then jumps. After that, it's fine for the rest of the trip. The later hesistations (which do not *always* occur) are minor compared to the first one, usually involving me going at higher speeds and wanting to go a bit faster, but it taking the car a second or two for that concept to kick in :-)

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welcome to the club. My loyale has that same dead pedal feel. Mine's a manual, but I know the symptom. You can be moving along, fairly slow, rpm's round 1.5k, floor the car, and it just increases intake noise. The car slowly picks up speed, till about 2.5-3k when the power comes on. It friggin sucks, cause the car will bogg and stall rather than spinning its tires when backing and filling in deep snow. I'm solving my problem with an EJ22, but I am curious about the real cause.

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Fuel filter is new. Compression I have no way of testing. Exhaust seems ok. Cat doesnt go "clonk" when I hit it, and the mufflers exhaust pipe is pretty rusty, but the muffler itself sounds ok. Would a turbo muffler help? Problem also existed before I put in new plugs, but I will admit that it was the first time I had ever gapped plugs and they might variate between .47 and .50. This is only because I have a MSD coil and accel 8mm wires in there now, plus NGK v-powers. Otherwise I would have left a smaller gap.

 

Anyone else heard of the "dead pedal" phenomenon?

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actually... now that I hear more about it, I think my GL does the same thing when it's cold.

 

usually in second gear, around 1500 rpms, I have to be light on the pedal to make it accelerate. I have a new rotor and cap, the plugs and wires are fine.

 

I'm thinking I might have a small intake manifold leak, due to some other problems I've been having (heater vents changing under load).

 

wonder if that has anything to do with it

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  • 8 months later...

Did anyone ever figure this problem out. Mine is doing the same thing and I was hoping that since the [posts stopped the problem had been resolved and you just forgot to post the fix. It would be a dream if you could tell me the magic potion. Thanks Dutch

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Been having the same problem with my loyale, except I'm getting code 34-egr solenoid. Some people have said this can be the culprit for the problem described in this thread, even if no code is showing. Just got three solenoids from the junkyard, we'll see if one fixes it.

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I have a 93 loyale with the auto trans,31,000 original miles , and 4x4. Mine boggs out only when its cold. after it warms up, it runs ok. Someone told me its becase it has a "one wire" o2 sensor. this occurs even after i replaced the o2 sensor,fuel filter,cap rotor plugs and wires.

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I have a 93 loyale, MT, 4x4 with 153000 miles. Getting EGR valve control, vehicle speed sensor 2, IAC valve, and EVAP purge valve codes but only get that hesitation when engine's cold. I'm thinking has to do with IAC valve not functioning properly. Once RPM's are above 1500 does fine when cold. Smooth acceleration at normal driving temperatures from a stop or while driving.

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I replaced the throttle position sensor and the problem went away. Adjusting the tps may also help.

 

Same for my 91 Loyale. Major hesitation, much worse when cold. I changed out the O2 sensor, plugs, wires, coil, etc., and each item semmed to help at least a little. But when I changed the TPS, the problem went away entirely.

 

You can check TPS resistance across terminals B and C with an Ohmmeter, and if the resistance doesn't change smoothly over the entire range of movement, the TPS will have to be replaced. There isn't really anything you can do to fix them, although you could try blowing some electronic cleaner into it.

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Good Thread!

My 92 wagon has the same problem. I was planning on working on it this weekend......

However, I have found that if "feather" the throttle, I can usually get the car to respond. Anyone else have similar luck?

I will have to try the TPS. Is this a dealer only part?

 

Wow...bang on with what my '91 Loyale would do! Problem was worst when the engine was cold. I'd go to pull out into traffic ...the initial aceleration would set in for about a second, and then everything would just die right out with the engine bogging down really baddly. Mine was a manual and I found if I depressed the clutch and engaged again while flooring the gas I could get it moving again. If I didn't do this them it would take a lot longer for the bogginess to go away. Sometimes I thought the car might almost stall out. Once it was warmed up though there was no problem. Unfortunately I got a new Suby before I found out what the problem was, but I suspect it was the O2 sensor as that was one of the few things I did not replace.....go figure.

 

UC

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  • 3 years later...

So yeah,

I see that everyone has tagged along on this thread so I thought I would do the same.

I have a 90 loyale fivespeeed machine (push button four)

I have the weirdest problem...(1)My car will not start. There is plenty of juice in the battery and the starter is moving the engine but it will not turn over. However the car can be started by popping the clutch.

(2)All my warning light are "on" on my dash (check engine , brake , light out..) They go off sometimes when I am on the freeway for a while.

(3) This is the big one and I am trying to describe it right: My car will start to run really rough after a little bit of driving sometimes and then it seems like there is no balls behind it. I mean the car will eventually not hold an idle and then it won;t even be able to be push started.

I heard O2 sensor, EGR solenoid, IAC, and TPS (replace/adjust)

 

I am wondering if this is the same problem as being described in this thread.

Or if it is a related problem.....:banana::banana::banana::banana:

 

Thanks for reading, Peace

Is there a fix for this problem that I did not mention....? I am gonna try and hammer through a little bit of this by Friday.

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