f15xxx Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 99 leg l sedan 2.2 5-sp what is the correct crank bolt spec? endwrench article, haynes book and gates cambelt book say in area of 90 ft/lb. some here say 120 ft/lbs, what gives? also, do you use any blue locktite on the crank bolt? another weird deal here is that this particular engine has the "new" 2.5l tensioner. 77k miles, no cam or crank seal leaks, just a little oil mist from the crank seal. i'm sure it was about to go. had to pull radiator and use air-gun to remove cambolts, they were tight. hardly any room to move here. pretty straighforward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 I've got a fever... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nug Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 It is definately (edit) at least120lb-ft. 90 is insufficient, and will loosen, possibly damaging the crank and balancer. Loctite it if you wish, I did on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bearbalu Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 Subaru service manual calls for 130 +-7 ft-lb for my 98 outback EJ25 DOHC engine - must be same for yours...As for the new tensioner - the type where they recommend vertical press to press the rod, the local dealership mechanic uses horizontal vice - just make sure the rod is straight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted January 21, 2005 Share Posted January 21, 2005 I've got a fever... And the only cure is some more cow bell! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f15xxx Posted January 22, 2005 Author Share Posted January 22, 2005 yeah, wow, that is a heck of a fro on that white guy with the black les paul. the 70's are still out thankfully. 'preciate the torque spec. might be interested to know that camseals and crank seal were really hard and brittle, never seen any like this before. they were black in color. the car has been in service exactly 6 years. i guess the rear main will go before the clutch... 99 leg l sedan 2.2l 5-sp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted January 22, 2005 Share Posted January 22, 2005 <<i guess the rear main will go before the clutch...>> the only time i saw a rear main leak is from an engine that sat for a few years and then used. the seal dried up, then started to leak. you'll get a leak from the backing plate before the rear main seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f15xxx Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 what has been your experience with the tranny seals and the diff seals? do they tend to last a while? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
svxpert Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 in a 5 speed, i have never seen them leak. gear lube is alot thicker than ATF thats in the auto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
f15xxx Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 thats good info. fyi, the countersunk screws in the back of my oil pump had not backed out, they were all oil-gunked. all needed to be "persuaded" out with an impact wrench. inspected, cleaned and reinstalled w/blue loctite. also, blind seal puller popped seal right out, not nearly as difficult as cam seals. waiting on parts... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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