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Bad Wheel Bearing?


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Tarnel

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  • Boise

Posted 24 January 2005 - 07:48 PM

Hey all, 1st time posting.

Now that thats out of the way, Im pretty sure that one of my wheel bearings on my RF wheel is going bad. I own the repair manual but it doesn't help very much on how to replace it. I was wondering if anyone could give me any tips or short cuts on how to replace the bad bearing.

Just to let ya know I haven't worked on cars very much but Im willing to learn. So try to use little kiddy talk when talking about things.

-Thanks!

#2 jefvos

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 08:34 PM

i have the same problem, it just grinds away. but not knowing what car you have, i can only say that (like my 91 Loyale) i beleive all of the 1600 and 1800s have a pressed bearing that must be removed and pressed back in with a hydrolic press and special adapters. this means you would have to remove the driveaxle. not a big deal, but i'm cheap and i'm thinking about $80 to $100 for the garage labor. i'm actually going to pull it apart tommorow and i'll repost when i get a good look at it.

#3 Ross

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 09:18 PM

You don't need a press, just tap the old ones out with a drift, then carefully tap the new ones in with a trimed peice of 4x2. Try to make sure you only tap on hte outer race of the new ones to avoid damaging them. Undo the hub nut before you take the knuckle/axle assembly off hte car, its much easier!

use good quality bearings, these things like to slog through them quickly!

other than that, its pretty self explanatory.
good luck!

#4 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 09:45 PM

a cheap thing to check before you get into the bearings is the axle nut. Make sure it's really tight, since if it's loose it can make a nasty grinding sound.

But if it does turn out to be the bearings, follow the directions above :)

good luck

#5 Mike386

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 10:20 PM

Hey guys,

I don't know how different the front end of a 91 Loyale is compared to my 88 GL WGN, but on my car if the main axle nut is not torque to spec (145ft/lbs for the 88 GL) you will get a grinding noise out of it. You'll need a 36mm socket with a 1/2" drive and a torque wrench. I'd check out that first before you start dropping money at the auto shop. Or have your mechanic check that out first.

-Mike


i have the same problem, it just grinds away. but not knowing what car you have, i can only say that (like my 91 Loyale) i beleive all of the 1600 and 1800s have a pressed bearing that must be removed and pressed back in with a hydrolic press and special adapters. this means you would have to remove the driveaxle. not a big deal, but i'm cheap and i'm thinking about $80 to $100 for the garage labor. i'm actually going to pull it apart tommorow and i'll repost when i get a good look at it.



#6 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 11:34 PM

36mm socket


Is it a 36 or 32mm? I thought it was a 32, but I'm not sure. I just have a big crescent wrench with a four foot cheater I use to tighten them.

Might want to make sure before you buy a $15 socket.

#7 Wasteland

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 11:46 PM

If I remember correctly, the OEM nuts are 36mm, the reman nuts are 32mm.

#8 monstaru

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Posted 24 January 2005 - 11:47 PM

on an 88 it would be 36mm.i only know this cause baccaruda has an 87 and it is the same as an 88 ,and i borrowed it for my brat .so all in all , i would say it is a 36mm.and sears sells them for around 7 bucks.craftsman,if you break it they give you a new one.

#9 mudduck

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Posted 25 January 2005 - 01:00 AM

The barings might have to be pressed out. If yout hammering on them for an hour and nouthings happening they need to be pressed out

#10 Ross

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Posted 25 January 2005 - 02:05 AM

The barings might have to be pressed out. If yout hammering on them for an hour and nouthings happening they need to be pressed out

Or you need a bigger hammer!:lol:

make sure you tap around the bearing, so as it doesn't end up trying to go sideways. That will make it incredibly hard to get out.

#11 84gl

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Posted 25 January 2005 - 12:21 PM

150 foot pounds

#12 Tarnel

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Posted 25 January 2005 - 09:00 PM

Sorry bout that. Its a 88 GL WGN non-turbo. Anyway. When driving straight it just grinds a bit. And it lets off and gets worse with weight transfer. (IE turn left its worse, turn right gets better). Don't know if that can still be the bearing but I will try that axle nut thing. I plan on doing the work myself. Les Schwab wanted 30 bucks a bearing and 64 for labor. I can rent special tools from Schucks and I was wondering what special tools I would need to do it. Like I said, I haven't done anything like this before, and don't have much tools to work with. The repair manual I have explains how to do it in bits and pieces, here and there.

Thanks for everyones help tho!

#13 Ross

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Posted 25 January 2005 - 11:15 PM

30 bucks is very expensive for a bearing. We get top quality SKF bearings for NZ$14 (about US$9 or so) each.

I have done many wheel bearings and have never needed anything else other than spanners, sockets, screwdrivers, a hammer, a drift, and a block of wood. You will also need some stuff to clean out the old grease from the steering knuckle (Never mix different kinds of grease!).

#14 weekendwarrior3169

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Posted 26 January 2005 - 12:01 AM

Funny you should ask about wheel bearings. I just finished my 88 DL tonight. Everything they have told you is right of course. One thing I didn't see mentioned I found out the hard way is each bearing has to be knocked out the way it was put in. There is a ridge in there that won't let it go out the other end. That I am sure is elementary to most of you but I always learn the hard way. I had mine pressed out by a friend of mine. Also if you buy your parts at Autozone they give the same part number for the inner and outer seals. The number is only good for the outer seals and they don't know what happened to your car because it don't fit the inner. Go to NAPA and they will have everything you need.


Paul




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