Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

Bad Wheel Bearing?


Recommended Posts

Hey all, 1st time posting.

 

Now that thats out of the way, Im pretty sure that one of my wheel bearings on my RF wheel is going bad. I own the repair manual but it doesn't help very much on how to replace it. I was wondering if anyone could give me any tips or short cuts on how to replace the bad bearing.

 

Just to let ya know I haven't worked on cars very much but Im willing to learn. So try to use little kiddy talk when talking about things.

 

-Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i have the same problem, it just grinds away. but not knowing what car you have, i can only say that (like my 91 Loyale) i beleive all of the 1600 and 1800s have a pressed bearing that must be removed and pressed back in with a hydrolic press and special adapters. this means you would have to remove the driveaxle. not a big deal, but i'm cheap and i'm thinking about $80 to $100 for the garage labor. i'm actually going to pull it apart tommorow and i'll repost when i get a good look at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't need a press, just tap the old ones out with a drift, then carefully tap the new ones in with a trimed peice of 4x2. Try to make sure you only tap on hte outer race of the new ones to avoid damaging them. Undo the hub nut before you take the knuckle/axle assembly off hte car, its much easier!

 

use good quality bearings, these things like to slog through them quickly!

 

other than that, its pretty self explanatory.

good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey guys,

 

I don't know how different the front end of a 91 Loyale is compared to my 88 GL WGN, but on my car if the main axle nut is not torque to spec (145ft/lbs for the 88 GL) you will get a grinding noise out of it. You'll need a 36mm socket with a 1/2" drive and a torque wrench. I'd check out that first before you start dropping money at the auto shop. Or have your mechanic check that out first.

 

-Mike

 

 

i have the same problem, it just grinds away. but not knowing what car you have, i can only say that (like my 91 Loyale) i beleive all of the 1600 and 1800s have a pressed bearing that must be removed and pressed back in with a hydrolic press and special adapters. this means you would have to remove the driveaxle. not a big deal, but i'm cheap and i'm thinking about $80 to $100 for the garage labor. i'm actually going to pull it apart tommorow and i'll repost when i get a good look at it.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The barings might have to be pressed out. If yout hammering on them for an hour and nouthings happening they need to be pressed out
Or you need a bigger hammer!:lol:

 

make sure you tap around the bearing, so as it doesn't end up trying to go sideways. That will make it incredibly hard to get out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry bout that. Its a 88 GL WGN non-turbo. Anyway. When driving straight it just grinds a bit. And it lets off and gets worse with weight transfer. (IE turn left its worse, turn right gets better). Don't know if that can still be the bearing but I will try that axle nut thing. I plan on doing the work myself. Les Schwab wanted 30 bucks a bearing and 64 for labor. I can rent special tools from Schucks and I was wondering what special tools I would need to do it. Like I said, I haven't done anything like this before, and don't have much tools to work with. The repair manual I have explains how to do it in bits and pieces, here and there.

 

Thanks for everyones help tho!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

30 bucks is very expensive for a bearing. We get top quality SKF bearings for NZ$14 (about US$9 or so) each.

 

I have done many wheel bearings and have never needed anything else other than spanners, sockets, screwdrivers, a hammer, a drift, and a block of wood. You will also need some stuff to clean out the old grease from the steering knuckle (Never mix different kinds of grease!).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Funny you should ask about wheel bearings. I just finished my 88 DL tonight. Everything they have told you is right of course. One thing I didn't see mentioned I found out the hard way is each bearing has to be knocked out the way it was put in. There is a ridge in there that won't let it go out the other end. That I am sure is elementary to most of you but I always learn the hard way. I had mine pressed out by a friend of mine. Also if you buy your parts at Autozone they give the same part number for the inner and outer seals. The number is only good for the outer seals and they don't know what happened to your car because it don't fit the inner. Go to NAPA and they will have everything you need.

 

 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...