NoahDL88 Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 EJ 22 Swap: To do the EA searies 4 or 5 sp. you will need the adapter Kit I build to mount it to the EJ-22 What Transmission should i use with the adaptor plate (John 541-953-1769) You can without a Doubt use the 5 speed Hi-Lo and You could use the 4 speed, But I wouldn't suggest it...... To do the EA searies 4 or 5 sp. you will need the adapter Kit I build to mount it to the EJ-22 What engine is better, the EJ-22 or the EJ18? Remember, Most if Not all EJ-18 motors were put into Automatic cars.....these Motors tach higher which if fine in an Auto with torque Converter, But they have less actual crank Torque than an EJ-22 .....In a Brat I'd Say go for it.....You should be happy with it, and as was already stated, the price is Great..... EJ18 redlines 6000. but making less horsepower might make for a really good increase in mpg, compared to the stock motor......more power= less gas to move car ......1.8 liters vs. well....1.8 liters. (Austin) if i did a swap into another EA car... i wouldnt hesitate to do an EJ18... especially if you have one available cheap... but one tip... do all resealing and work on the engine before installing... makes things much easier.. Basic how to, Thank you Austin The EJ22 should fit nicer into an Ea82 body then it did on mine.. the Ea81 body is narrower, but the heads cleared the sides, and the Y pipe and mid pipe all fit in there (tight squeese, you willl need to remove the heat shields from the cat to make it fit near the radius rod plates in the ea81 bodys) the front clearance is a lot less, in an ea81 body with the stock rad. I had to use a AC fan mounted at a funny angle, because the tbelt casing and the serpentine style pulley setup (dual belt, AC/alt/PS) put the engine only an inch or so from the fan... (the thin AC fan!) the radiator hoses are a pain just so you know ahead of time... be prepared to customise something in there! the wiring.. I have the whole front harness and ECU that I removed from the wrecked legacy, you need the parts between the ECU<--->Engine and if its wiring from an AT, then ECU<-->TCU<--->Engine with the AT/MT selector wires jumped if you convert to an MT. fuel pump- use ea82T Axles- All the early EJ trannys are 25 spline, so you need to use ea82T MT (25spline) axles. make sure your rear diff matches your front! (4.11? 3.9?) driveline- lengthen it by 55mm or so from ea82 length.. there is a shop in the yakima area that Jerry knows about that has good prices... the EJ temp guage sensor are compatible with the ea series dash... just connect the one yellow wire for temp (you will see it, its on the back of the coolant plentum under the right rear leg of the intake) there are 2 sensors, one for ECU, and one for the guage) the EJ22 has an idiot light oil sender, so you can use that, or you will have to plumb an EA style sender into the EJ's sender's hole- (sender is under the alternator on top of the motor) good luck with the conversion! Those that have done it will caution that it straight forward but not easy. A complete writeup will follow my conversion in June, wiring, hoses, exhaust, the works, with pictures. Not all questions will be answerable, some things you'll just have to figure out yourself, like austin and john when they pioneered the US version of the conversion going off only pictures from OZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 Excellent! Even if its not a complete writeup, an outline is better than none. I'm still curious as to the extent of the wiring nonsense. Is the "front harness" more or less plug and play, mounting the ECU under the hood, or is there a lot of cutting and splicing involved? I can really get into a difficult but straight forward swap, but cannot handle (in my own yard) a difficult and tedious swap. The bits about the temp sender and oil sender are golden. I can now write off those two issues from my personal list. I've been reading so many threads with info scattered about.. my eyes, head, and even my A.D.D. hurts. :-\ Awesome to see it gathered together in one spot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 There is still a bunch of DIY work for that swap, I will be done with my swap in probably a month from now so i will get started on a write-up in conjunction with Austin, John, and Noah. Lucky Noah has a converted car to look at for reference material. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty2Austin Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 I could easily make a simplified wiring diagram for everyone, if I could get the pinout of the ECU and such.. or.. if people would like me to- I could possibly (once i get the diagram figured out) make a harness that could plug into the engine and ECU and your existing EA harness to make life easier... I will keep collecting info, and discuss with Noah and John as I figure things out... (sorry john, i had some transportation issues this past weekend, I will come down there to help with the wiring soon!! (after I get my brat licensed to me and insured i just need to pass smog first) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 hmmm..... a semi-massproducable wiring harness available for those that could fork over the dough and convert their crappy 80-95 hp subie into a 140 hp monster.........doesnt that sound good to you .......yes it is a good time to be a subafreak. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 EA harness? I've removed all such items. The only thing that remains is the +12v to the dash components. The only thing I'd probably need is a signal for the tach, as currently it comes off the coil, and the EJ uses sparkpacks. That and to tie in the fuel pump controls. I cannot think of anything else I'd have to splice into. Maybe wire up a tiny LED on the dash to use as an OBD1 MIL.. Other than that, I've got a Weber, and a straight pipe. No steenkin harness here. Heh.. is the front harness more or less one piece? I just need to get the inectors and spark plugs firing right, and +12v to the ECU. Since I've got everything electronic removed, I think I'd have the swap easy - just plug in engine sensors and injectors and go. However, if I need to splice together three harnesses from the EJ body to make one harness just to run the engine.. *shudders at that thought* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 26, 2005 Share Posted January 26, 2005 look in your chiltons or haynes manual, it will tell you in the location of the tachometer pin-out on the ecu, tap into it and run it to your gauges, they are compatible just like the temp. gauge, and oil pressure sender unit, if you want oil pressure. in ej block underneath the alternator, there is an idiot oil sender for low oil pressure, remove it and the sheath-like thing that also screws into the block, use some sort of curing thread sealer to make sure you get a good seal or you will have an oil leak and loss in oil pressure, make a "Y" out of electrical wire and splices so you can send the idiot light signal to the ecu, and one for your gauge cluster. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted January 27, 2005 Share Posted January 27, 2005 Thats not quite what I was looking for. I'm more curious about physically making the engine run....the absolute basics of the swap. In my case, the tach is no biggie, as I know that will need to be pulled from my coil and tied into the EJ ecu. Coolant is no biggie, as I already knew those were compatible earlier in this thread. Oil pressure and other associated gauges are mechanical. However, my goal is to learn about the absolute basics of the swap which would apply to everyone. I already know I've got it easy with not having all the extra crap to hook up. Without going into making all the idiot lights and such light up correctly on an EA82, which I'm sure would be an absolute pain, how much wire splicing and "voodoo magic" is required to just make the engine run? From what I understand from my readings, the swap is more or less move the harness from the donor, plug in the injectors and sensors, and the end of said "front harness" plugs into the ECU, which needs only switched +12v to allow the engine to run.. correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85Sub4WD Posted January 29, 2005 Share Posted January 29, 2005 You will definately need the battery connector from the ECU to be connected to the battery all the time unless you want it to run like crap, but that is basically all you need. (Don't Forget the fuel pump) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 i just got all the ecu related wires separated from the harness, it is amazing how much wiring you dont need. just have to solder and heatshink all conncections and run power and ground wires, and plumb in the o2 sensor in my exhaust, and fish all the loom behind my glovebox. someone needs to tell me how to load pictures from a digi onto this board, i plan on taking multiple pictures from many angles so everyone can see what i did. ill probably be done soon, need to be done before march 16, when my insurance renewal comes due..... ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Josh - You need to find a hosting provider. Once you have them uploaded to a web host, you just link to them; either by typing in the http:// address as text, or place them inline in your posting by using . Or, if you like, you can email them to me, and I'll crop, link, and host them all for you on one of my servers. The info you've posted is great.. exactly the kind I'm looking for. I'm just out to find out exactly how much wiring work is necessary to make the engine run. Once I get that info down, I'm sure I could get the swap done and running quite fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 Oh yeah, a suggestion: be sure you write down the color codes of the wires that you keep. That would come in handy, and make for faster and easier stripping from the harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 one problem there bud, subaru likes to use different color codes for different models and years, so a 1991 legacy w/ no CC or ABS will have a totally different wiring colors for the same wires, like austin said, if you take your time and isolate the wires that go from engine to ecu then you should be ok, i will enlighten more on the subject once the darn thing runs, until then i put a penny to my words on wiring. im gonna tackle the splicing tommorow so wish me luck. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 30, 2005 Share Posted January 30, 2005 i'm going to pull my harness tomorrow.... will i need to remove the dash or just go under it? thanks and i'm glad things are going smoothly on your projects (because it is a good omen for mine ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 i think you need to take out the dash and all that stuff, I bought my harness from a guy on nabisco forum. one thing is for sure, save yourself an extra 10 or so hours of wiring by getting harness form a MT car, so much easier to get one from an OBD-1 era car also. I got most of the soldering and heatshinking done this weekend, next weekend ill see if she'll fire up once i get the loom all together and grounded and powered and the o2 sensor stuff done and the fuel pump wired in and etc. God i hope im doin this right. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 i started removing the wiring today. would have finished, i'm sure, except i had to take a sawzall to the radiator support and crossmember to get the wrecked part of the car out of the way. I will also be replacing the crank pulley and most of the timing belt cover as it turns out. my parts car is a '90 automatic 2WD. pull n save didn't have any manual transmission cars that i could have de-wired (i may have missed one) but if a manual car turns up somewhere i will probably take the time to yank the harness. the more i fink with EJ22s, the more i like them.. they're so much simpler than the EA cars with all their vacuum crap.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 ive said it before and ill say it again.......F**K CARBUERATORS............hope i spelled carbuerators correctly. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted January 31, 2005 Share Posted January 31, 2005 carburetor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 1, 2005 Share Posted February 1, 2005 thanks bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted February 3, 2005 Share Posted February 3, 2005 one more thing, make sure the engine you buy for your converison is in the same generation as the wiring harness you get, i got a 1991 5MT legacy harness and i am using a 96' imprezza motor, engine harnesses are different, good thing the guy i bought my harness form included the engine harness also, what a bro that guy. oh ya, to the top baby. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RavenTBK Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 TTT.. Its now May. Where do these ongoing conversions currently stand? Its either a cheap EJ swap or I get freaky with a Mazda 13b... mmmm rotary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty2Austin Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 the more i fink with EJ22s, the more i like them.. they're so much simpler than the EA cars with all their vacuum crap.. I agree!!! its a trade off though, there are more wires to deal with on the EJ engines, and more hoses on the EAs! but wires dont go bad or leak as easily... usually... and they are more colorful!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonist Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 Sorry, but I've got to clear up some wrong info at the beginning. The EJ temp sensor for the dash gauge is not compatible with an EA82 cluster!!! It will run it yes, but the output signal of the EJ sender is about half that of the EA version. This means that once you go past about half way up the gauge on the EA cluster, you're about to blow the system. It may not be a problem in the colder climates, but it sures matters here! Apparently there is a replacement sensor made by VDO (I don't know if you've got hem overthere) for the EA motor. It is too small to fit into an EA block & requires an adaptor, but it is a direct screw in the EJ sensor position. I'm looking into this at the moment to find out how try this is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baccaruda Posted May 3, 2005 Share Posted May 3, 2005 nngh, slow. my car's front end is still all apart (excuse: i'm waiting for the lift to arrive so i don't have to take it apart again), and I've done next to nothing on the wiring. I am in the process of getting my flywheel adapted, and I am going to cut out my adapter plate this week Oh, and I need to reinstall my heater core and dash. argh. TTT.. Its now May. Where do these ongoing conversions currently stand? Its either a cheap EJ swap or I get freaky with a Mazda 13b... mmmm rotary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballitch Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 well mine was done, until i decided to do it the right way and have the flywheel machined and use XT-6 pres. plate and clutch disc, flywheel is still in the machine shop. do it right the first time, cant stress that enough. wiring, not a huge ordeal for me, TAKE YOUR TIME!!!! and now the motor is leaking oil, i think from the oil pan gasket, but ill do some prev. maint. that is over due. definately worth every penny to do this conversion, screw getting a turbo EA-82 or high-comp EA-82, go EJ22, last forever, and parts are just about as cheap as EA-82 parts.................. ~Josh~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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