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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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1980 DL 4wd


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48 replies to this topic

#26 gbrand

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 01:20 PM

Had a 1980(base model) 4wd wagon w/EA71. Was the best car I have EVER had in snow, and on ice was unstoppable(no pun intended). I have driven 6 other 4x4s and none came close. Had big vacuum leak in some pollution control valve(anti backfire valve?) that caused car to run on 2 cyl only, a long determined diagnosis session found that and a plug in it caused the car to run beatifully. yeas, check over all your hoses and brakes and stuff , should be good to go. Beware if your alt quits the fuel pump will die too and the car will die in about 30 seconds-i rigged and overide switch to get me home after a night with an intermittent alt. And it came in handy several years later when the belt broke, I got to get off the road and put on a spare. Good luck and this board will get you any tips you need!

#27 tscinmd

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 08:58 PM

Well, worked on the subie a tiny it tonight ... more or less just looked at it since it's so cold out.

Put in a new filter and bought the pcv valve for it .. still have to install it .

Have another question . Looking down from the top of the motor , there is a little device that is off to the upper right hand corner of the air filter cover. it looks like this.

__
| |== <--- hose with clamp
| |== <--- hose with clamp
| |
\ /

^
hose with clamp


Arrows point to where hoses go in. Whatever it is , It needs a new one. Both nipples at the top where the hoses clamp on are broken inside the hoses. Sorry for my stupidity on this part, but I didn't have my camera to take a picture of it.

#28 85Sub4WD

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 09:02 PM

Sounds/looks like part of the ASV system. The ASV system (Air Suction Valve) is the same thing as a smog pump for your emissions, except it uses the venturi principle (like a carb) instead of a pump.
Forget about it, will make car noisier, but all the more fun :drunk:
If you are a perfectionist, fix it, but really not having it set up right won't hurt anything.
Though on further though ... the 1980 cars had a coasting bypass system, which might need to be addressed. I can't tell from the image and descriptons what you have well enough to rule that out.

#29 tscinmd

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 09:24 PM

One tube off of this device goes directly into the right side of the air cleaner ( when looking at the motor from the top ) the hose comming off the bottom of this device goes down towards the crankcase from what it looks like.

#30 85Sub4WD

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 09:27 PM

the hose comming off the bottom of this device goes down towards the crankcase from what it looks like.

OK, if you pull it off and it turns out to go nowhere, it is ASV, if it does go into the crankcase, it is PCV - related, and it needs to be fixed.

#31 tscinmd

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 09:30 PM

ill take a picture of it tomorrow and post it

#32 gbrand

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Posted 01 February 2005 - 11:01 PM

That I believe is the part that generated the vac leak that caused my car to run on 2 cyl only. If it has a big connectoion to the right(drivers) side intake manifold replace or plug it.

#33 85Sub4WD

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 12:38 AM

That I believe is the part that generated the vac leak that caused my car to run on 2 cyl only. If it has a big connectoion to the right(drivers) side intake manifold replace or plug it.

I know what you are talking about is the "Coasting By-Pass System", and if ANY components act up on it you have a MAJOR vacuum leak instantly. It was only on the 1980 models. So if it is the coasting by-pass system is acting up, I would dump it alltogether if emissions allow.

#34 tscinmd

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 07:47 AM

I'll get a picture today and post it. We don't have strict emmisions here in western md/northern WV ... so I don't think dumping it is going to be a problem. I'll just need to know what to plug up or reroute.

#35 85Sub4WD

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 10:55 AM

The haynes manual I mentioned earlier has a detailed diagram of the Coasting By-Pass system, basically anything that goes into the intake manifold would need to be blocked.

#36 tscinmd

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 09:26 PM

Here are some picks of the Subie in its temporary home while its being worked on ... I'll include a picture of the part in question too ...



Posted Image
Posted Image
Posted Image

#37 tscinmd

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 09:29 PM

The part is question is in the engine pic above --- it's between the breather and the oil filler cap.

#38 85Sub4WD

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 09:51 PM

:slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber: :slobber:

BEAUTIFUL CAR
Geezz, I wish I had something that goregous - NO RUST :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:
OK, that looks like it is related to the PCV system. I assume there is a miniature filter-like thing on the other side of the hose going into the manifold (unless it comes in on the inside of the air filter). You will need to replace it, and you should be able to find it in a junkyard without any problem.
(and an OEM oil cap :) )
I am not 100% sure as it has been some time since I messed with an EA81/EA71, but I am pretty sure that's what it is, if not please let me know.

#39 tscinmd

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 10:11 PM

I'm just wondering if I am gonna be able to find a replacement part for that thing ... Not too many of these cars left in this area. Also, anyone have any tips on removing a stuck pcv valve? That bugger is in a tight spot and looks like it's rounded off a bit.

The hose that leads out of that funny black device at the bottom curves around into the end of the pcv valve. The top tiny hose goes into the breather, the middle hose goes down into the top of the drivers side valve cover.

#40 85Sub4WD

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 10:16 PM

Put an add on this board for the plastic piece, I am sure someone will be able to cough it up.
Stuck PCV ......... I am thinking soaking it in WD-40 and/or liquid wrench.
Be sure to take the spare tire out when working on it - makes life easier (I know on EA82's they are easy to get at with the spare tire out)
If above methods don't work, I would try freezing the PCV valve with liquid nitrogen. I would not recomend heating the manifold because I don't like putting that kind of stress on the aluminium, but you might have to as a last resort.

#41 tscinmd

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 10:20 PM

Cool , I'll make a new post and put the picture up. Never thought of the liquid nitrogen ... wonder where something like that could be had here in little western md.

#42 85Sub4WD

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Posted 02 February 2005 - 11:33 PM

Liquid nitrogen is a bit extreme, but I assume your intake manifold is in good shape, and it is better to hurt the PCV valve which you are pitching anyway, than to mar your manifold, which could be difficult to replace. (breaking 25 year-old bolts loose will not be easy)

#43 tscinmd

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 10:59 AM

Can you recommend a socket that would allow access to this bolt or will I have to use a wrench to get it the rest of the way off??

#44 gbrand

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 12:45 PM

Before you get too gung ho about heat, check the PCV. Some were made of plastic, some metal. When I buy a replacement I always make sure I get an all metal one. (the same valve is used on my my 91Legacy and the 2 Nissan trucks i have owned). I have always found that while heat works well, cycling hot/cold is very good too. I would spray with Liquid wrench or PB Blaster, let soak in, then run engine to warm up. Then spray the valve, the idea is to cool it so it shrinks slightly while the manifold remains warm. I think you will be able to break it loose with no problem.

As far as liquid nitrogen goes, some metals get VERY brittle at those temps and shatter like glass. Dry ice is usually easier to find and not as extreme if cold is needed.

Put some liquid teflon thread sealer or anti sieze on the threads of the new valve and it will come out easily next time. I just changed the one on my 97 Nissan truck, was located way up behind the alternator and only accessable through the fender well-I'm sure it was orig as it was almost impossible to find let alone change. A soak, heat and soak allowed to break loose with out too much mojo.

#45 tscinmd

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 02:33 PM

Thanks for all the help everyone. I'm sure I'll be able to get the bolt out , as it was turning, but not too much. The issue now is finding something that will get the valve out because it's rounded off slightly. Looks like someone tried to change it, then said F**k it and plugged the hose back onto the valve.

#46 85Sub4WD

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 08:09 PM

Two words : Vise Grips

#47 tscinmd

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 09:52 PM

Yeah , that was my next step ..... just don't know if I'm gonna be able to squeeze a set in there or not .... i might go to the local tool shop and pick up one of those gator grip sockets. I've heard those things will even turn a bolt with a broken head.

#48 85Sub4WD

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Posted 03 February 2005 - 11:43 PM

I've actually used something like those (craftsman equivalent) and really liked them, but you have to use your own handstrength to hold it on the valve while loosening it. (they are also not that cheap) There are also needle-nose vise grips available. I have a pair and use them all the time because they are easy to use, and can fit in tight places.

#49 tscinmd

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Posted 11 February 2005 - 04:24 PM

Well, looks like the car has a dead piston. I just talked to the mechanic and havn't gotten the full skinny , but I may be selling the car. I don't want to get rid of it, but I don't have the time to mess with it right now. I'll post pictures and a price once I get the full diagnosis from him later today. So if someone is looking for a nice dl hatch for an engine conversion or rebuild .... it may be up for sale.




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