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Oily Residue in Breather? Cause?


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30 replies to this topic

#1 tscinmd

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 07:19 PM

1980 DL 1600 4wd Hatch 52k Miles All original.

Replaced PCV Valve, getting suction on it now.

A little pressure comming out of oil cap when I loosen it, with a little bit of fumes.

Getting some Oily residue in the breather. Not comming out of direct top of carb, but out of small white plastic cap with hole in the top that is located inside the breather case. The white cap is located to the left of the inside of the breather case when looking at the front of the car.


Could this residue be caused by a bad evaporative canister or a timing issue? I already replaced the pcv thinking that was the cause. The car burns no oil. No signs of coolant in the oil pan. No smell of gas in the oil.

#2 Skip

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 08:52 PM

Could this residue be caused by a bad evaporative canister
no
or a timing issue?
no
I already replaced the pcv .
did you use an aftermarket PCV?
if so - - bad juju that

thinking that was the cause
ring blowby

try a can of "Restore"


#3 tscinmd

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 09:39 PM

Ran some lucas through it today. I'll run it and see how that does. After some miles, I'll do an oil change and run a can of restore through it and see what happens. I've never used Lucas before today but a few guys on the high powered motorcycle drag circuit sware by the stuff. It's almost like glue going down.

Thanks for the info.

#4 Allouez

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 10:01 PM

Yeah...definately get back on this one. I have the same trouble. 1st time I've run across this. I've got an appointment with a mechanic next week...he doesn't seem to think it's rings, but we'll see. Mine's running poorly on top of it. (83' wagon....) Haven't tried the PCV yet...




Ran some lucas through it today. I'll run it and see how that does. After some miles, I'll do an oil change and run a can of restore through it and see what happens. I've never used Lucas before today but a few guys on the high powered motorcycle drag circuit sware by the stuff. It's almost like glue going down.

Thanks for the info.



#5 tscinmd

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 10:08 PM

Thats the odd thing with mine , its running good from what I can tell . This is my first carbed car with a boxer motor ... so im not 100 percent sure how it is supposed to sound or feel. Doesn't feel like its doggin down the road though. Not getting any smoke out the tail pipe either.

#6 NV Zeno

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 10:45 PM

I'll be watching this one...:-\

#7 tscinmd

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 10:49 PM

Zeno....have you ever seen this issue or are you as puzzled as i am?

#8 85Sub4WD

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Posted 06 February 2005 - 11:01 PM

Are you running the proper weight of oil?

If someone put something really light (5w-30 or less) I would expect it to start blowing out, but that does not really explain the pressure in the crankcase, and it would probably be burning it too.

When my car was carbed, the breather was always getting dirty, though it never seemed a problem.

I agree with Skip that it looks like rings, especially if you feel the pulsation of the cylinders with the pressure on the oil cap.

I would recommend changing the oil if you don't know what's in there. If it had a bad PCV for a while, the oil will be very dirty and acidic from the blowby gasses collecting and disolving in it. As you have already put the one chemical in there, run it for the spec'd time before changing it.
The oil should be changed anyway if the car has been sitting for a while. Old oil can get some really weird characteristics.

#9 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 06:48 AM

I'll run it for a few days with the lucas in it and let you guys know what happens. I figure its gonna wind up getting pulled and getting a ring job, if not a total rebuild unless I can find a straight ea71, which is probably going to be impossible around here.

#10 edalexandr

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 07:48 AM

this has happen to me and it was blow by

#11 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 07:57 AM

edalexandr, did you do a total rebuilt to fix it or just a ring job?

#12 Mudboat

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 08:50 AM

Pull your plugs and check the compression on each cylinder to see. I had low compression on one cylinder a few months ago. I pulled the piston and found the rings siezed and the piston burnt. Cylinder wall was ok. Ran a hone in the cylinder, put in a new $65 piston w/rings from Car Quest and it was back in action in about 6 hours.

#13 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 08:59 AM

Do you think they would still carry the pistons for the ea71 ? I've found ring sets for 65.00 .....

#14 MorganM

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 09:09 AM

I would recommend changing the oil if you don't know what's in there. If it had a bad PCV for a while, the oil will be very dirty and acidic from the blowby gasses collecting and disolving in it.


Don't forget where its shooting that lovely substances after passing through the PCV valve :(

#15 85Sub4WD

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 09:36 AM

Don't forget where its shooting that lovely substances after passing through the PCV valve :(


I'm not, I have really never liked the PCV system, I prefer breathers because the gases exit the engine permanently, however PCV valves are what our cars came with ...

I'm sorry to see an engine have to get rebuilt with less than 100k on the odometer, but things happen, and I do agree with the consensus that it appears to be rings.

#16 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 09:40 AM

Anyone have a good source for the things I need for a rebuild ... ie Pistons, rings, gaskets, ect.

#17 MorganM

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 10:51 AM

Anyone have a good source for the things I need for a rebuild ... ie Pistons, rings, gaskets, ect.


You said it runs okay; why are you rebuilding it? I say reroute the PCV system and drive on. Then you wont be foul'n up plugs and coating your intake mani / head intake passages.

#18 Petersubaru

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:23 AM

I had this apparently same problem with my car... I took care of it by changing the PVC...I had to install the PVC twice because, even when it "rattled" by shaking it, it would not always work properly when under suction..I would recommend checking the hoses going to the PVC for any blockage and possibly leaving the oil filler cap slightly loose to allow any pressure to escape more easily ....do a compression test to rule out poor rings...

1980 DL 1600 4wd Hatch 52k Miles All original.
Replaced PCV Valve, getting suction on it now.

A little pressure comming out of oil cap when I loosen it, with a little bit of fumes.

Getting some Oily residue in the breather. Not comming out of direct top of carb, but out of small white plastic cap with hole in the top that is located inside the breather case. The white cap is located to the left of the inside of the breather case when looking at the front of the car.


Could this residue be caused by a bad evaporative canister or a timing issue? I already replaced the pcv thinking that was the cause. The car burns no oil. No signs of coolant in the oil pan. No smell of gas in the oil.



#19 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:23 AM

Only thing is , It doesn't look like the oil is comming out of the pcv valve tube, Unless I am missing something. The oil is comming out of the little hole that is located on top of a little white plastic cap to the left of the inside of the air filter case. I made a diagram in paint .... best I could do while at work :-)

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#20 Petersubaru

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:40 AM

oil will not come out of the PCV..but if the motor is not breathing correctly as designed, there is every possiblity that it will then come up thru the carb...do the compression check to make sure the problem is not created by excessive blow-by...

Only thing is , It doesn't look like the oil is comming out of the pcv valve tube, Unless I am missing something. The oil is comming out of the little hole that is located on top of a little white plastic cap to the left of the inside of the air filter case. I made a diagram in paint .... best I could do while at work :-)



#21 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:42 AM

Will do ... I'll check the compression and see what kind of readings there are and then post.

#22 MorganM

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:44 AM

AH okay that diagram clears it up a bit. Thanks for the drawing.

Point still being; if it runs okay why rebuild from the block up? :confused:

#23 Petersubaru

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 11:57 AM

if the compression comes up rather on the weak side, but is not so bad that warrants a rebuild...then do away with PVC system and install breathers over each valve cover and replace the oil filler cap with breathing cap...just like the airplanes guys that use these motors to fly...good luck

Will do ... I'll check the compression and see what kind of readings there are and then post.



#24 tscinmd

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 12:02 PM

I don't want to have to carry a case of oil with me everywhere I go ... not to mention the mess it makes inside the breather lol. Maybe I just need to touch up on the workings of these motors and figure something out.

Can you guys recommend a filler breather cap?

#25 MorganM

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Posted 07 February 2005 - 12:31 PM

I don't want to have to carry a case of oil with me everywhere I go


How much oil is it using? You'd have to use A LOT of oil before you need to carry around more than a spare quart.




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