oregonloyale Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 Im going to replace the t. belt and oil pump seals and gaskets in my 92 EA82 wagon , I just want to know what tools I need on my check list before I get started? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 Besides the usual array of screwdrivers and metric sockets/wrenches, etc., you'll need a large (I think 22mm) socket for the bolt on the crank pulley, and also something to stop the flywheel (on a manual trans, anyway) from turning when loosening the crank pulley (like an old screwdriver that you don't mind bending up a bit). A torque wrench helps when putting everything back together, but you could probably get by without one. I'm sure I'm missing something here, but those are the main things I remember from when I did all that work on my EA82 earlier this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted August 25, 2003 Author Share Posted August 25, 2003 MINE IS A AUTO TRANNY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dennis Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 In that case, Subaru makes a tool called a "driveplate stopper" that stops the driveplate from moving when turning the crank pulley bolt, but I'm sure you can use something else without having to shell out the money. The automatic transmission from my '87 wagon is sitting in my driveway right now--if it was still in the car, I'd be able to take a look at it and give you an idea of what you might need to stop the driveplate from turning, but I'm sure you can look at yours and figure something out. A flat bladed screwdriver might to the trick, but without the torque converter sitting snug against my driveplate, I really can't say for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 You gotta tension the timing belts, so you need a tool to torque the cam sprockets. Like other guys here, I rigged up my own..... used a steel plate (from an electrical junction box) and four short bolts, plus a 5th one in the center to torque on. You'll see what I mean when you get the timing covers off. If you make your own tool, use a piece of paper as a template on the sprocket holes. You also need this tool to lock the cam sprockets when removing the three mounting bolts. This is to remove the sprockets for changing the oil seals. Someone in a previous thread mentioned a way to "eyeball" the belt tension, but this is a crucial step and the tool gave me that confidence. OH -- and you need a cardboard sheet to tape to the radiator. Saves the rad fins, and your knuckles I'm doing this same job now, and the only other new tools that come in handy are a flex socket extension and 1/4" u-joint socket for the oil pan. Last time I did this, without these tools, I used up 6 months of patience on those 18 bolts. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted August 25, 2003 Author Share Posted August 25, 2003 Do you have to remove the oil pan to do the oil pump? I thought it was up front ? I am going to remove the radiator and possibly do the water pump. You know , Im glad I asked this question here because the haynes manual didnt specify any special tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 No, you don't have to remove the oil pan.... But it seems one of the obvious "seals and gaskets" to change for this job. The oil pan gasket always is the first to leak. Two tips for this job -- since all this stuff is so fresh in my head from the weekend. I found that one of the camshaft sprocket pins was loose. (There are 3 bolts and a pin that align each cam sprocket.) One pin was loose, and that allowed about 5 degrees of play in the sprocket. If could easily have missed this and had valves/distributor off by 5 degrees..... I took out the pin (about 1/2" long), expanded it and tapped it back in. Don't know if this is a common thing, but check for play in the cam sprockets when you put 'em back on. The other is that the oil pump is a bear to disassemble. Once you get it out (5 bolts), all you've got is smooth aluminum mating surfaces to work with; the drive sprocket is held on with a 12mm nut and there isn't anything to hold onto to torque it off. I used two pieces of soft plywood, sandwiched the pump in a vise, and c-a-r-e-f-u-l-l-y gorilla'ed it. One slip and you can gouge the mating surfaces. Once the bolt is off, it took a few drops of PBBlaster and tapping on the pump drive shaft to break the sprocket free. Used the plywood pieces again to get the pressure sensor off. The oil pump seal was the worst leaker on my engine, so it was actually the target for all this work. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmmCeeBee Posted August 25, 2003 Share Posted August 25, 2003 How about that, my memory is going already, and it hasn't even been 72 hours. No, I used the plywood sandwich for the sensor. I used a carpenter's vice (you know, the two wooden blocks with hand screws) to get the drive sprocket off. The oil pump drive shaft has the drive sprocket on one end (12mm nut), and the 4-lobed rotor on the other. I took a square piece of old inner tube and laid it over the rotor, put it into the carpenter's vise flush with the pump's mating surface. Then torqued the vise tight. (Rubber on wood couldn't hurt a steel rotor....) With that resting on the floor, I tackled the 12mm bolt. Wasn't easy -- I darn near shredded the carpenter's vise. But I didn't mar the rotor or the pump body If anybody knows of a better way to do it, I'd sure like to hear. -- Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted August 26, 2003 Author Share Posted August 26, 2003 Damn , it sounds like I really have my work cut out fot me, Im starting to get alittle scared.:boohoo: I was told this should be an easy job , I have already bought all the seals , gaskets and T belts so........................ 3 day weekend , here we go! Thanx:( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 26, 2003 Share Posted August 26, 2003 you will have to remove all the plastig to get the oil pump off. when tightening oil, water pump bolts, be careful. once the bolt feels tight ITS TIGHT, dont over torque them , you can strip the alumonum threads. but as ;long as youre not he-man on the wrench thats nothing to worrt about. \ a 7/8 socket or offset (bent ) wrench will fit on the crank pulley. if its a 5 spd put it in 5th gear with the parking brake on, if its an auto, wedce a screwdriver between the flexplate and torque converter thru the timing window. before removing the belts, loosen the 12mm bolts on the tensioner pulleys, move them out of the way as far a s possible(spring loaded) and tighten them back down. this will make belt install much easier when installing belts, get the marks lined up and slip the belts on. now you dont need a special tool here, do like this: once the belt is on, grab the cam sprocket by chand and turn it so the top side of the belt, the one straight off the crank, tightens up, doesnt take much effort. after that, release the tensioner pulley and you are set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted August 26, 2003 Author Share Posted August 26, 2003 All you have been a great help, Im starting to feel alittle more confident about doing this . The whole goal is to get rid of the that dang valve clatter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MilesFox Posted August 26, 2003 Share Posted August 26, 2003 the timing belt doesnt have to do with valve clatter, but since you will have the front apart, moght as well take off the cam housings and clean up ypour lifters while you're there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oregonloyale Posted August 26, 2003 Author Share Posted August 26, 2003 I had planned on doing the oil pump seals and gaskets to rectify the clatter. Since the T belts have about 30k on em I was just gonna replace them. I had already replaced the check valve spring in the heads and the MMO treatment in 20W50castrol with no luck , so the oil pump is my last resort at relieving the chitty chitty bang bang clatter. hope it works??????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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