yarikoptic Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 Dear Subaruers. Legacy L, AT, 1995 I had a differential binding problem, so I've changed all tires so to make sure that all of them are equal, did a bit of rear-8-figure-driving and changed AT oil. I thought to change AT filter but I couldn't take the pan off because of the excessive rust -- didn't want to bother this time. The problem/questions are: what is the amount of AT oil usually gets dumped when no filter gets changed (damn me - I couldn't measure -- trusted too much to the manual). Manual says 4 Qt, Friends says 6 Qt. I added first 3 Qt, started - couldn't get stable level, added another 1 Qt, oil seems to appear but too many bubbles, added another 1 Qt, seems to be much better but few bubbles Rear -> Drive -> Neutrual -> 2 minutes, it is hard to get stable level but it seems to be on Low Hot when engine is hot how dangerous to overfill? all official sources say that overfilling is very bad, friend says that not really appearance of bubbles mostly due to over or under fill?? how bad to mix different brends of AT fluid? Thank you in advance for clarifying the questions for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 7, 2005 Share Posted February 7, 2005 Overfilling isn't horrible horrible.....but it's not good. To properly check the level, get the trans to operating temp, drive for 5 miles or so. Park on a level surface. With the engine running, slowly cycle the gear selector from park to 1 and then back up to park. With the engine still running, check the AT fluid level on the dipstick and verify that the level is between the H & C marks for the "hot" side. Depending on where the level is, you'll want to add/take away fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted February 7, 2005 Author Share Posted February 7, 2005 Thank you for replying. Legacy777, do you think that bubbles could form due to underfilling? or it is specific only for overfilling? In other words -- if I was low on oil, could AT mix it so much with air that foam lifted to the "normal" level giving me measures on the dip stick? Sure, the question is AT fluid specific and I don't remember what I filled it with - it was some synthetic blend of Penzoil ATF I believe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 There's bound to be some bubbles, but there shouldn't be tons The ATF fluid should be dextron III. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted February 8, 2005 Author Share Posted February 8, 2005 Legacy777: Thank you once again. Then I'm probably fine, if not taking into account the fact: the beast died 3 times today while idling... there were no sporadic rpm changes, which I think should accompany a problem with broken vacuum pipes which I could bend a bit while accessing AT and differential... After a 3rd death, when I started it, AT OIL TEMP light not only lighted up but blinked a couple of times - around 6-8 but seems it wasn't blinking 16 times which seems to be a warning for "THERE IS SMTH WRONG WITH AT - PLEASE READ OUT THE CODE". I will try to read out the codes tomorrow following the thread after the sun comes on and I can find necessary terminal under the steering wheel But can really AT make engine shut down during idling or I should really look for bad hoses/wires? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted February 8, 2005 Share Posted February 8, 2005 Yeah, see what the TCU has stored in it, and we can go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 5, 2005 Author Share Posted March 5, 2005 Here is me back asking for help Here is the short story after my lost Saturday car-research: indeed there are codes in TCU and ECU. TCU reports: 22 - mass airflow signal 23 - engine speed signal ECU reports P0100 -MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION P0130 -FRONT OXYGEN SENSOR CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION (FO2 -- V) (I've got some for ABS system as well but that must be a separate story) I've checked air flow connector, seems ok although one of the wires might be broken - it was twisted to much at some point... What should I do next to resolve my engine halting problem (yesterday I stall twice after driving for a while and then driving slow in traffic - pretty much at idle 10mph)? Should I rush and change oxygen sensor (I did the OBD reading at Autozone -- paranoid me says that their device gives 130 code randomly to boost sales of the oxy sensors)? What are other pins on the diagnostic connector? 5 - AT 6 - ABS rest ??? Thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted March 6, 2005 Share Posted March 6, 2005 I'd reset the computers, and see if the codes come back. If they do, you're going to most likely need to replace them. The O2 sensor isn't super urgent to replace, but I'd do it at some time. The MAF sensor is probably what is causing the stalling. Check that wire and see if it's good. If it's not, you might want to replace it, reset the ECU, and then check to see if the MAF sensor is throwing a code. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 6, 2005 Author Share Posted March 6, 2005 Thank you 777 That is about what I thought -- I've reset CUs today by disconnecting from the battery, after that I checked TCU and it didn't throw any codes. I'm going to get codes tomorrow as well (we will be driving a bit) and definetly after it halts again. Any ideas for engine speed signal? I kinda doubt that it is just a harness between ECU and TCU... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 7, 2005 Author Share Posted March 7, 2005 What days came to my life -- I've halted 30k$ RAID at work, my car stall again today 3 times (all the time it was moving in a jam with speed around 5-10mph so no disaster) but what even worse is that twice on high speed with rpms in 2-3k range it was like suddenly dropping 400-500 rpms, gas pedal was becoming soft, but then it was kicking back in so it didn't really stall but that didn't feel nice :-\ In the eveing I checked TCU codes and this time it reported only one code: 23 - engine speed signal so no more air mass signal (uff, may be I will save 200 on that one at least) I didn't have chance to get to Autozone to read any trouble codes from ECU if any were stored (CEL light is off) As I understand, oxygen sensor which was reported as bad can't do any crazy staff like what I've reported, can TCU 23 signal informing about the real problem? Anyway I'm going to order sensor from oxygensensors.com (walker universal 250-23000) because it seems to be a good price and might be good thing to do in general, but I'm lost in attempts to solve my problem. Also can anyone recommend me reasonably priced OBD-II interface to PC (or Palm) so I can save me trips to autozone to read damn codes. but I want not a simple code reader but an interface so I could track the changes in reported values... Any suggestions on proven to work on Subaru interfaces are welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted March 7, 2005 Share Posted March 7, 2005 Hmm....I wouldn't think engine speed signal would cause the issues you are seeing. I guess what I'd want to see is a wiring diagram, and make sure the engine speed signal is coming from that one wire from the ECU. I'd then verify that wire is good. It might be that the engine speed signal is just a bad code when it freaks out. Yeah I'd suggest checking the ECU codes, and see if anything correlates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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