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Ball Joint Tool


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Tom Dunn

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Posted 10 February 2005 - 01:54 PM

I have been looking at the NAPA site, wanting to buy a ball joint picklefork for my 91 Legacy. They show one, BK7759096, with the description that it "Separates ball joints on steering and suspension systems". It lists for $19.49
The other, BK 7759066, says it "Separates ball joints from steering knuckles" and provides the demension of 15/16" X 12"

Which one of these do I need to order???????

#2 uniberp

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Posted 10 February 2005 - 03:20 PM

I have been looking at the NAPA site, wanting to buy a ball joint picklefork for my 91 Legacy. They show one, BK7759096, with the description that it "Separates ball joints on steering and suspension systems". It lists for $19.49
The other, BK 7759066, says it "Separates ball joints from steering knuckles" and provides the demension of 15/16" X 12"

Which one of these do I need to order???????


I really like this lever type, and this is the source I got it from, believe it or not:
http://www.jcwhitney.../p-3140/c-10101
I had to grind out the inside of the fork just a little to get a better purchase around the balljoint, and it sure beats hammering away on you control arm.

#3 uniberp

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 02:57 PM

correction: the part number is ZX812149N search on the http://www.jcwhitney.com/ home page

I really like this lever type, and this is the source I got it from, believe it or not:
http://www.jcwhitney.../p-3140/c-10101
I had to grind out the inside of the fork just a little to get a better purchase around the balljoint, and it sure beats hammering away on you control arm.



#4 ron917

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Posted 03 May 2006 - 07:06 PM

I have the one from JC Whitney mentioned by Uniberp, which looks the same as the NAPA BK 7759096. It works well, it is ideal when you want to re-use the ball joint or tie rod end. Note that this is for smaller joints - I've used it on tie rod ends, but never on a suspension ball joint. You'll have to measure or try it to see if it fits the joint you want to separate.

I also have a pickle fork style kit made by Lisle (ZX136312Y at JC Whitney) that comes with three different size forks that screw onto a handle (for whacking with a hammer) or an adapter for an air hammer - all included in the kit. This one also works well, and is ideal when you don't want to re-use the ball joint or tie rod end or the joint is too big for the lever type tool.

#5 Patriot Guard 1

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 05:11 PM

I didn't need any special tools. If your trying to remove the stud part of the ball joint from the control arm here's what you do......Loosen the castle nut to the end and use a floor jack to start pushing on it and just tap the control arm and it will break "most" of the time little problem. I just did mine on a car with 232,000 miles in CO

#6 davebugs

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 05:25 PM

I have some "pickle forks".

But usually I just go to Advance auto and "rent" the front end service set.

pickle forks I have a tendency to rip the BJ boot with. Not a factor if it's being replaced but sometimes I wanna try and save the BJ.

The "rent" deal is you pay for it (used set usually), take it back in what a week or 30 days and get your money back.

#7 johnceggleston

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 05:26 PM

trying to remove the stud part of the ball joint from the control arm here's what you do......Loosen the castle nut to the end and use a floor jack to start pushing on it and just tap the control arm and it will break "most" of the time little problem. I just did mine on a car with 232,000 miles in CO


i would add,

the lug nuts are the same thread as the castle nuts, swap in one to prevent booggering the nut or the threads. this also works for the tie rod end castle nut. if you are swapping out the ball joint then you do not car about the threads, but once they are damaged you are at the point of no return. protecting the threads allows you to put it back together any time you choose, if you need to.

as long as the sway bar is attached to the control arm, the arm is going to be spring loaded. this will make it more difficult to remove. disconnect the sway bar end link first.

more and more, when working with brakes, struts, ball joints, ....i find disconnecting the sway bar end link simplifies the process. re-attaching the end links is pretty easy if you wait until you are lowering the car to the ground. as you put weight on the wheel, (maybe when the jack is removed) the control arm will line up with the end link. insert bolt and tighten.

hope this helps.

Edited by johnceggleston, 02 March 2011 - 05:35 PM.


#8 Fairtax4me

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 10:51 PM

These old threads are interesting sometimes. Fun to watch the replies. :grin:

#9 davebugs

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 11:07 PM

Actually you and I look at it differently.

I'm happy folks USE the search function.

Especially newbies.

Resurrecting an old thread means that someone actually tried to help themselves before creating yet another thread.

You know - my car is overheating.

I did a HG job and now my auto tranny won't move.

Can I swap a 2.2 for a 2.5.

I actually see it as progress when old threads are searched for and found. Doesn't bother me at all. There is a lot of old and excellent info here. I'm often amazed because I've only been here I'm guessing 3 or 4 years. The knowledge that's already documented here.

#10 Fairtax4me

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Posted 02 March 2011 - 11:55 PM

Actually you and I look at it differently.

I don't think so.
I'm all for searching, I quite frequently search (usually unsuccessfully). And I'm just as glad to see people use the search function rather than starting new threads about the same thing there were three threads on last week. (hypothetically)




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