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8 replies to this topic

#1 theflystyle

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Posted 12 February 2005 - 05:01 PM

hey board,

thought i would share some info for those who wander over to the search, type in drive axle and see how and what can happen if you wait to long.

well almost 6 years later, nursing a torn boot, bad axle combination the day finally happened. pulling out of the post office the usual sound (like going up a wooden rollercoaster first hill) was very loud and then the final crack and moan came out.

long story short the car is un driveable, and now sitting in the post office lot waiting for the the new axles (sittin in the backseat from CV) to be put in.

to make the story better, im at my university 3 hours away from my house and i have to find a way to get this done on my budget. dealers up here in the dc area ask for 220 a side labor.

guess the only good thing is that this was something expected, and i was going to drive home tomorrow to change it out but i was a day too short.

moral of the story, dont wait for this to happen before you fix your axles Posted Image



ali

#2 Smpol19

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Posted 12 February 2005 - 06:37 PM

looks like you are at Mason there are some good shops in the area that won't charge you $220 in labor a side...maybe that much for the whole thing. I take my subarus to KC's auto which is in the Citgo station on Burke Road in burke...good bunch of guys in there, they aren't subaru specialists but they know them well enough. I would offer up my driveway but i'm not going to be intown for atleast a week....

#3 theflystyle

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Posted 12 February 2005 - 08:11 PM

Smpol19,

thanks for the offer, i coulda used someone in the area with some subie knowledge. hard being in a area without knowing decent mechanics, etc...

tonight me and a friend are going to the lot were the car is, pushing it into a lit parking garage and having at it. i was looking around the forum for the tools needed for the axle change, pretty much the list is as follow from what i gathered (haynes is at home :( )

jack
pry bar
3/4 inch drive socket?
36mm axle nut socket?
3/16" pin punch
hammer

i would greatly appreciate anyone listing a tool i missed. or clearifying the 3/4 or 36mm socket??

thanks for the help

#4 Nug

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Posted 12 February 2005 - 08:22 PM

You nursed a split axle boot for six years?

I applaud your procrastination.

#5 theflystyle

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Posted 13 February 2005 - 03:15 AM

UPDATE

just got back from trying to get the old axle off... with all the right tools except for a 3/16 punch we got stuck at the pin connecting the old axle to the body.

i will post pics of the old axle, or whats left of it, never seen one that bad before.

and the best part, we have a size 27 (i think) torq screwdriver stuck on the top side of the axle pin. we are going to try to finish it up tomorrow with a decent punch. the torq 27 is stuck in there really good and we couldnt get it out so any ideas would be greatful.

-=-=-Needs advice-=-=-

#6 Scoobaroo

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Posted 13 February 2005 - 07:50 AM

You nursed a split axle boot for six years?

I applaud your procrastination.


Yeah, that rocks!

Never do today what you can put off 'till tomorrow!;)

#7 Scoobaroo

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Posted 13 February 2005 - 07:58 AM

UPDATE

we have a size 27 (i think) torq screwdriver stuck on the top side of the axle pin. we are going to try to finish it up tomorrow with a decent punch. the torq 27 is stuck in there really good and we couldnt get it out so any ideas would be greatful.

-=-=-Needs advice-=-=-


With a smaller punch, try to drive the torx screwdriver out from the opposite end. A cheap set of Chinese punches can be had at a discount auto parts store for a few bucks. If you have a grinder, you can make a punch out of anything metal that is larger than the drift pin you are trying to remove.

Let us know how it goes.

#8 theflystyle

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Posted 14 February 2005 - 05:17 PM

just to update,

we tried to take the old axle out, it was fairly easy considering it was broken into 2 peices. the hardest part was removing the old spring pin from the axle.

now the new problem, the car is stuck without the new axle. according to the haynes manual there is no need to remove the rotor, caliper, etc etc in order to get the new axle back in. this is were the problem is, me and my friends could not put the new axle in because of clearance issues. we tried putting both ends in first, but the other end was just shy of being placed correctly.

is it just us or should putting the new axle be a little easier. if i cant figure it out its off to a shop and paying $$ that i wanted to save doin it myself. (low budget)



thanks for any help

#9 theflystyle

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Posted 17 February 2005 - 05:03 PM

looks like not much help in this direction.. oh well

took the car to a mechanic...

got new axle in for 100, and then from the damage trying to remove the old one the threads on the front end tie rod got damaged (80 includng labor)

got my car back today, no clicking, etc etc but on some inclined right turns a loud thump, as if something is trying to settle is heard. any ideas on what this could be? going to call the shop later and let them know.




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