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2.2 Crankshaft Tool


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16 replies to this topic

#1 Tom Dunn

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Posted 17 February 2005 - 10:19 PM

What tool, other than the special tool designated in the FSM, or alternate method can be used to lock the crankshaft pulley when doing a timing belt replacement?

#2 BigMattyD

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Posted 17 February 2005 - 10:25 PM

I just put the car in gear, stepped on the parking brake, and allowed the resistance of the engine to hold the crankshaft tight. That probably only works on manual transmission.


Other people have used a chain wrench, or they use a breaker bar propped up against the engine compartment and give the starter a quick crank to break the nut loose.

Other people have made homemade tools to hold the pulley. Do a search on this message board for timing belt replacement and you'll get all the info you'll ever need.

I just did mine last month, and without all the info I got here, I probably never would have done it.

Matt

#3 richierich

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 12:23 AM

A chain wrench or a good belt wrench will usually take it off.


Taking it off using the motor works, but unforuately you will not get it back on tight enough. This will cause the bolt to come loose, then pulley to move on the crank shaft, and a lot of money and hassle down the line. Maybe even a bad crank.

A belt wrench is only like $20 and a chain wrench a little bit more. Can also be used to take the cam pulleys off of the 2.2 when that becomes necessary.

#4 Tom Dunn

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 12:24 AM

An old time mechanic I knew would remove a spark plug, feed a length of 1/4" nylon rope into a cylinder that was not quite at TDC, then allow the rope to "jam" the piston as it came up, effectively allowing the crank nut to be removed. This was on older motors however, and I'd be reluctant to try this on a modern engine, although the procedure seems pretty benign.

Binghamton area huh? My old home town. Sure miss Brozetti's Pizza!

#5 grossgary

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 01:18 AM

i tried that rope down the spark plug hole method a long time ago and could not get it to work in my soob. i'm sure it does with the right rope size and and all. but definitely be careful, dont' want to snag it on an opening or closing valve and get material in there. probably really wouldn't hurt anything, but i'm a little leary about intentionally stuffing things in the cyilnders.

it is a neat trick though, that's why i tried it (once).

i'm about to do my OBS as well, there's no access hole in the transmission like older soobs to just jam a socket extension into?

if you use a chain wrench i'd guess you cover the pulley with some rubber material so it doesn't mark it up?

#6 HobbyWrench

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 09:52 AM

i tried that rope down the spark plug hole method a long time ago and could not get it to work in my soob. i'm sure it does with the right rope size and and all. but definitely be careful, dont' want to snag it on an opening or closing valve and get material in there. probably really wouldn't hurt anything, but i'm a little leary about intentionally stuffing things in the cyilnders.

it is a neat trick though, that's why i tried it (once).

i'm about to do my OBS as well, there's no access hole in the transmission like older soobs to just jam a socket extension into?

if you use a chain wrench i'd guess you cover the pulley with some rubber material so it doesn't mark it up?


Sears has an inexpensive, heavy duy aluminum strap wrench for $19.99 (item #00945571000 Mfr. model #45571) that I recently used to pull the crankshaft pulley from my '90 EJ-22.

It has a heavy duty rubber strap capable of grabbing 12" diameter objects. Though the handle is only 8" long, a pipe could easily be put on the end for leverage - because it is a Craftsman tool with a lifetime warranty, Sears will replace it if you break it!

#7 Legacy777

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 10:10 AM

Put a prybar or big screwdriver in the access plug and snag the flex plate if you an auto.

http://www.main.expe...rs/DCP_2486.JPG

If you have a MT, put it in 5th gear, have someone step on the brakes, while you loosen the crank pulley.

#8 WRX1AB

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 10:53 AM

put breaker on nut

tell everyone to stand back

lock back of breaker on the ground, so that if the engine should rotate it will lock the bar on the ground


cross fingers


turn ignition key


works every time

be careful. makesure you know which way the engine turns! only let it turn over a couple of times. do not hit the gas pedle, maybe pul the power wire off hte ignition module so that the engine does not start.

I have done the wheel lug breaker in the spark plug hole before but never on an engine i wanted to keep.

#9 Legacy777

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 09:03 PM

Don't do it this way! It's not that hard to do it the way I mentioned, and there's a lot less chance of something breaking or someone getting hurt. Use some common sense.



put breaker on nut

tell everyone to stand back

lock back of breaker on the ground, so that if the engine should rotate it will lock the bar on the ground


cross fingers


turn ignition key


works every time

be careful. makesure you know which way the engine turns! only let it turn over a couple of times. do not hit the gas pedle, maybe pul the power wire off hte ignition module so that the engine does not start.

I have done the wheel lug breaker in the spark plug hole before but never on an engine i wanted to keep.



#10 Nug

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Posted 18 February 2005 - 10:43 PM

To remove the centrifugal clutch on a Stihl chainsaw, you would use the factory tool...which is this plastic ball on the end of a plastic handle that goes down into the spark plug hole and jams the piston aganst the head.

#11 Scottbaru

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 08:10 AM

I used the starter method on my Landcruiser a few weekends ago. A particularly stubborn crank bolt took many hits of the starter, burned the strarter contacts out. Luckily they're replaceable and I had a spare set. Legacy's little bolt shouldn't be as tough as this one (torqued to 304ft-lb and aged). I'm new here, but I advize if the Legacy doesn't have a tough, gear-reduction starter, with replaceable parts, I'd avoid the starter method

#12 Subarunation 713

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 10:17 AM

Don't do it this way! It's not that hard to do it the way I mentioned, and there's a lot less chance of something breaking or someone getting hurt. Use some common sense.(I bolded type 713)

And what, take all the fun out of it! I wanted to see the post that follows "How to remove breaker bar from battery", "Breaker bar busted ABS pump, what to do next", "Breaker bar flew off and killed neighbors cat, anybody know a lawyer" or something as fun.
Greg

#13 kmix99

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Posted 19 February 2005 - 11:10 AM

I snaked a thin wire cable through one of the holes in the crank pully, then looped it back up around the alternator bracket. The wire ends were secured with a small u-clamp to complete the loop.

Works great and very secure plus it's cheap.

I plan to post some picks.

#14 richierich

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 01:25 AM

So how do you guys get the crank pulley back on tight?


For your question on the chain wrench. Mine does not marr the crank enough to worry about, but some people use a old piece of belt on the inside. This is the way that many of the mechanics at the dealership does it because it take the least amount of time.

#15 Legacy777

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 08:51 AM

Same way I get it off....stick something in the flex plate to hold the engine.

#16 Subarunation 713

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 10:24 AM

Same way I get it off....stick something in the flex plate to hold the engine.

this is the EASIEST way on the planet. Pull the little rubber plug out, jam a big screwdriver (or something) in between the flexplate and flywheel by a bolt that connects the 2, move engine slowly to make sure screwdriver is clear of all hoses, wires, etc and you are done. Less than 2 minutes and you have a way to loosen the bolt and a way to tighten the bolt. If you want to do it the hard way the are are many other ways, just read previous posts! ;-)
Good luck,
Greg

#17 wrxsubaru

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Posted 21 February 2005 - 01:22 PM

Ive always used the starter method for both the crank and the cam bolts. I to jam a screwdriver onto the accses hole but it never held.




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