Aja1 Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 Any input on this one is greatly appreciated! Turn the key, dash lights up, all seems normal, BUT no start...no noise, no nothing. The battery is new and I tried jumping it (plus all elec. accessories work fine). Also, even with the key in the "on" positon I can't disengage the shifter from P...what does this mean? Oh, the car is a 96 GT wgn, 180K. All worked fine until yesterday when this started. Can I narrow it down to things like: starter? Fuse (although I checked most if not all of these)? Asterisk: I bought this car used in 1998, it came with a security system, one that disengaged the engine (not an alarm). I used it for a while, but then the remotes batteries went dead and I quit using it. So for the past 2-3 years I haven't used it and it was as if it wasn't installed. The AAA guy thought it might be the problem, but it seems strange that out of the blue it would engage and wouldn't be able to be disengaged using gher manual switch in the footwell (Which I tried). I also tried disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. Help!! Thanks, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 I would check for voltage getting to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to the 'on' position. If you have voltage then the starter is at fault. If you don't have voltage then the safety switch may be at fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigMattyD Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 It would seem to me that if you can't shift out of park or start the car, there may be a switch connected to the brake pedal that will keep you from starting or shifting out of park unless it senses that the brake pedal is depressed. I have a manual transmission, and I know I can't start the car unless the clutch is depressed. The switch is usually mounted up on the firewall behind the pedal "arm" so that when you press the brake pedal, it connects the circuit and allows you to start the car. (or maybe it is mounted in front of the bar, and when you press the pedal, it releases the switch) There may also be separate switches to turn on the brake lights, disengage cruise control, etc.. I am not sure exactly what the setup is, but based on the symptoms, that would be my best guess. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sea#3 Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Since you can't get it out of park and it won't start , you may want to take a look at the inhibitor switch ( prndl switch) Can you start the car in neutral? you will have to access the manual overide on the shifter lockout by removing the black bezel around the shifter and using a scewdriver to push down on the lockout selenoid ( hole at top right of shifter area) and pop it into neutral ,if it starts have a look at the inhibitor switch SEA#3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aja1 Posted February 21, 2005 Author Share Posted February 21, 2005 Thanks for the input. I'll try starting it in neutral...I'll have to disengage the shift lock anyway to get it towed won't I? If it is one of these repairs (inhibitor switch, safety switch) ...are they expensive? Thanks, again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setright Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 If you get it towed, make sure all four wheels leave the ground! FWD fuse is not enough. AWD must be lifted onto a flatbed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aja1 Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 Tremendous info from you smart people! I disengaged the shift lock, and sure enough she started right up. I let it run for a while, then shut it off, put it in park and tried to start it again...and it was as if there was never a problem! Should I live with this issue knoiwing that worst case I have to disengage the shift lock to start it? I can live with that for a while. If I do decide to get this fixed is it expensive (inhibitor switch)? Thanks to all, Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 I am curious to know what you did to disengage the shift lock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aja1 Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 To disengage the shift lock, there are 2 screws just under the center console bin, take them out, remove the E-brake cover, then pop off the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter, underneath is a small hole that you insert a philips screwdrive and push, it allows the shifter to come out of park. Takes 2 minutes to do...easy as pie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcoaster Posted February 24, 2005 Share Posted February 24, 2005 To disengage the shift lock, there are 2 screws just under the center console bin, take them out, remove the E-brake cover, then pop off the plastic piece that surrounds the shifter, underneath is a small hole that you insert a philips screwdrive and push, it allows the shifter to come out of park. Takes 2 minutes to do...easy as pie. that's 2 steps too many. You can just pop off the shifter bezel (the black plastic trim around the shifter indicator to access the hole on 95-99 Legacies and Outbacks. I had posted some pictures on the board a while back showing how. On 2000 and newer, there's a little door that you flip open to access the interlock release. To disengage, just insert a phillips screwdriver down the hole and press it down. [edit-found the pictures, here they are:] Pry out the trim with your screwdriver... Then insert the screwdriver into the hole to disengage the shifter. Besides, you don't even have to have the car running to disengage the shifter. Just turn the key to "ON", and press the brake, and then shift it out of park. Just be sure to set the parking brake so the car won't go anywhere while trying to start the car in neutral. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aja1 Posted February 24, 2005 Author Share Posted February 24, 2005 I was afraid of cracking my "wood" shifter bezel It was about 10 degrees when I did it...but you are correct, technically you don't have to do steps 1 and 2. Any idea what the cost is to replace an inhibitor switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unverviking Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 Asterisk: I bought this car used in 1998, it came with a security system, one that disengaged the engine (not an alarm). I used it for a while, but then the remotes batteries went dead and I quit using it. So for the past 2-3 years I haven't used it and it was as if it wasn't installed. The AAA guy thought it might be the problem, but it seems strange that out of the blue it would engage and wouldn't be able to be disengaged using gher manual switch in the footwell (Which I tried). Had this happen to a friend of mine on his 92 Legacy Turbo Sedan. It was in and out of the dealer for months before they ripped it out and threw it away... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcoaster Posted February 25, 2005 Share Posted February 25, 2005 I was afraid of cracking my "wood" shifter bezel It was about 10 degrees when I did it...but you are correct, technically you don't have to do steps 1 and 2. Any idea what the cost is to replace an inhibitor switch? I'm not sure of the cost but I do know it's easy to replace. The inhibitor switch is actually a tranny selector switch that tells the computer what position the lever is in. Looking over my Haynes manual, it appears there's a section on about adjusting the switch. It could be just as simple as the switch being out of adjustment. You just have to check for continuity between some terminals for Park and Reverse then tighten it down. For Park, Check continuity between pins 3 (Y) and 4 (, and pins 11 (BW) and 12 (BY). For Reverse, check pins 2 (Br) and 4, as well as pins 9 (RW) and 10 (BW). Here's the layout of the pins: __________=====_________| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 |-------------------------| 7 | 8 | 9 | 10| 11| 12|------------------------- This is for later models, the earlier models had this layout: 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 12 11 10 9 RC! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aja1 Posted February 25, 2005 Author Share Posted February 25, 2005 You guys are brilliant! As always I'm impressed with the knowlege around here and it has saved me $$...at least for now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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