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CV boot opinions, to split or not to split!


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15 replies to this topic

#1 nathana

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 07:52 AM

I have a torn CV boot and would like to replace it. Obviously it looks like the boots you can wrap around and put on without removing the whole wheel, brakes, etc would be a much simpler job. Any opinions on this? Anyone used either? both?

#2 teppichkopf

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 09:11 AM

Most will say the split boots are really worthless. They may save a little labor upfront but they only prolong the need to replace the cv axle. I've used one before but found that its rubber didn't last as long as a closed boot does.

And the other issue is that the whole cv joint has to be fully cleaned and regreased before the split boot goes on. Well, this is hard to do when the axle is on the car. Even if there is a little grit in there the wear on the joint will greatly increase.

Most will agree: get a rebuilt cv axle.

#3 northguy

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 09:59 AM

Split boots are junk.

#4 nathana

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 12:14 PM

Any pointers on where to dig up the info/instructions on how to do this? Inexpensive places to get good parts? Cost estimate? Tools?

#5 95Leg

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 12:59 PM

"..but they only prolong the need to replace the cv axle"

That's why I used one instead of replacing the whole axle. When it starts making noises while turning, then I'll replace the axle. My experience is that it takes a long time before the axle really deteriorates, especially if you catch it pretty soon after it has ripped and hopefully not much dirt really got in there.

I've always had a hard time finding the correct Quick-boot for Subaru's. If you decide to go this route, cut your old one lengthwise and then take it in to the shop with you, because the one they have listed will probably be shorter,longer or have the wrong diameter openings.

I just did this to mine a couple of months ago, and I ended up going to Pepboys who had some various Quick-boots sitting in the aisle. I just looked at them all and found one that seemed to match up well. Get yourself some worm-gear clamps to use instead of the clamps that come with the quick boot.

#6 Subarunation 713

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Posted 22 February 2005 - 08:55 PM

Any pointers on where to dig up the info/instructions on how to do this? Inexpensive places to get good parts? Cost estimate? Tools?

AutoZone sells rebuilt axles with new inner and outer boots and reconditioned CV joints for $60.00. You will need a breaker bar (if you don't have an impact wrench) and an axle nut socket you can borrow from Auto Zone. You will also need to drob the bottom of the ball joint off and a punch to knock out the pin that holds the axle at the transmission. If you follow a Haynes manual it really isn't too hard. If you go to a shop they will charge about $350 to $400 for this job. It would take you a Sunday afternoon and a little patience. You can go online and ask the group if you run into trouble as there is almost always one of us Subaru fanatics lurking around!
Good luck,
Greg

btw-don't mess with a split boot, my 2 cents

#7 AussieIan

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 03:36 AM

Totally agree split boots are useless. If your not getting any clicking on full lock turns just replace the boots. Subes are very easy to do thanks to some thoughful engineering. I did mine in about 3 hours both sides. The boots I purchased had a pack of grease with the boot, wear plastic gloves when your handling the grease it really gets into the pores of your skin.

#8 baccaruda

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 11:54 AM

you don't have to (and shouldn't) pop out the tie rod or ball joint. you can unbolt the control arm at the crossmember, unbolt the sway bar, and loosen the strut tower nuts in the engine bay. that will give you enough slack to get the axle off the stub without risking damage to the threads or boots on the tie rods or ball joints. look in the USRM for the axle tutorial, written by Ed.

#9 singletrack

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Posted 23 February 2005 - 12:14 PM

I've never had to remove anything but the control arm / cross member bolt to get an axle out, even when I had a swaybar. Changing axles is way easy, after the first time it should take less than an hour.

I'd go so far as to say it's harder to install a split boot than it is to change an axle, not to mention the split kit costs like a third of what you're ultimately gonna hafta spend on an axle anyway.

Split boots suck. Wise man once said, "If you don't have time to fix it right, how are you ever gonna find time to fix it twice?"

#10 95Leg

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Posted 24 February 2005 - 02:55 PM

I appreciate all the extra input. I've always heard it's a pain to replace the CV axle, but if it's really that easy on a Subaru, I might have to look into it next time I have a problem with a boot. It's good to hear different opinions on the subject.

#11 jcase321

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Posted 24 February 2005 - 10:44 PM

This is great. Thanks. I was checking all things under my car whiel I was changing the oil the other day. It is a 2001 Outback with 108,000 miles on it. I notices the end of the boot tore/broke off the clamp. The boot is still on and all or most of the grease is still in there. I thinkg I am going to check the pep boys quick boots for now. The longer I can prolong it the better. This is real recent. Should I shoot any grease in before i put the boot cover over it? I would be able to stick a tube in it since I can peal it back a bit.. Any thoughts?



"..but they only prolong the need to replace the cv axle"

That's why I used one instead of replacing the whole axle. When it starts making noises while turning, then I'll replace the axle. My experience is that it takes a long time before the axle really deteriorates, especially if you catch it pretty soon after it has ripped and hopefully not much dirt really got in there.

I've always had a hard time finding the correct Quick-boot for Subaru's. If you decide to go this route, cut your old one lengthwise and then take it in to the shop with you, because the one they have listed will probably be shorter,longer or have the wrong diameter openings.

I just did this to mine a couple of months ago, and I ended up going to Pepboys who had some various Quick-boots sitting in the aisle. I just looked at them all and found one that seemed to match up well. Get yourself some worm-gear clamps to use instead of the clamps that come with the quick boot.



#12 teppichkopf

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Posted 25 February 2005 - 08:22 AM

Wise man once said, "If you don't have time to fix it right, how are you ever gonna find time to fix it twice?"


That says it all.

#13 95Leg

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Posted 25 February 2005 - 09:02 AM

I probably wouldn't push any more grease into the joint with the torn boot on. Any dirt in there is probably on the surface of the grease that's sitting around the axle, and you don't want to push any more of that into the joint. When I cleaned mine out, I tried to get as much of the old grease off without pushing it further into the joint. If you are planning to use a quick boot, you want to drive the car as little as possible until you clean it and put the new boot on.

I've read about people using duct tape or other methods to seal up a torn boot until they can get it fixed, to prevent any additional dirt from getting in there.

I'm sure it's not as good as OEM, but the boot that I got at Pep Boys seemed like better quality than other quick-boots I've seen and seems like it should last for a couple of years.

With all the advice about how easy it is to replace the axle on the Subaru, I will probably look into doing that next time instead of the quick boot---if the weathers nice.

This is great. Thanks. I was checking all things under my car whiel I was changing the oil the other day. It is a 2001 Outback with 108,000 miles on it. I notices the end of the boot tore/broke off the clamp. The boot is still on and all or most of the grease is still in there. I thinkg I am going to check the pep boys quick boots for now. The longer I can prolong it the better. This is real recent. Should I shoot any grease in before i put the boot cover over it? I would be able to stick a tube in it since I can peal it back a bit.. Any thoughts?



#14 Scottbaru

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Posted 25 February 2005 - 10:40 AM

Unless you're going to replace it soon, use moly grease (molybdenum disulfide), not general purpose wheel bearing type grease.

#15 nathana

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Posted 01 March 2005 - 02:28 PM

So I got my Haynes and started reading. (it's the 90-98 all legacy models) On 8-13 I can follow those instructions for driveaxle removal (I'll do my front left where the boot is torn) and then the boot replacement (on page 8-15) which includes an inspection. If the CV is wrecked, (after cleaning and degreasing it for inspection), I'll try to find a whole new driveaxle assembly ready to install. It really doesn't look that difficult, this job, but it is going to be the most complicated one I've attempted.

I'll have to pick up a few tools for the removal part. I like new tools, though :D

My dad bought me the Haynes as a gift. He was going to buy me one for my dodge truck, but couldn't find it. I searched on my own and found a place called www.DiscountAutoRepairManuals.com that had the haynes for my truck at 12.95. That's a darned good price, so I orderred it. Just wanted to give out that address to anyone who might want a manual for a good price.

#16 subie94

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Posted 02 March 2005 - 11:40 AM

I have a torn CV boot and would like to replace it. Obviously it looks like the boots you can wrap around and put on without removing the whole wheel, brakes, etc would be a much simpler job. Any opinions on this? Anyone used either? both?



NO SPLIT!!! wasting your money.just gonna have to do the same work later on.




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