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Alternatives to axle pins for welded diffs?
Posted 24 February 2005 - 09:27 PM
All those spring pins do is ensure the axle won't slide off the spline, so you could shove pretty much anything in there an it'd work.
So, I'm thinking an appropriately sized bolt and a couple of nuts backed into each other would work,or even a bolt with a lil' hole drilled in for a R/C car body clip or the like. I'd choose a size that would ensure there's no slop, or even go a little small and put some rubber tubing around the bolt so it fit snug but comes out easy.
The drilled bolt and clip would make pulling/adding an axle take like 10 seconds. Even with some nuts on there it'd be fast, I'd rather break out a couple of 12mm wrenches then lay in the dirt and beat on a roll pin.
I'd keep the pins in the axle that stays put of course. The only hangup I can see is making sure the bolt (or whatever I use) clears the trailing arm as the axle spins.
Anywho, I'm SURE I'm not the first to think of this, so somebody come and tell me it'll work. Or tell me it won't so I can try it anyway.
Posted 24 February 2005 - 09:51 PM
Posted 24 February 2005 - 10:09 PM
Posted 25 February 2005 - 02:44 AM
Posted 25 February 2005 - 02:56 AM
Posted 25 February 2005 - 04:54 AM
locktite prolly has gone at least 2k since i did the job
Posted 01 March 2005 - 01:08 AM
Nice, except I'd hafta un-bend to pull the axle.
Still that's truly ghetto, and therefore belongs on my rig.
Posted 01 March 2005 - 03:18 AM
I'd run it :drunk:But then again I'd run anything. hose clamps, duct tape, zip ties, they're the name of the game when you're wheelin with me
In fact I have 1 hose clamp being used as a balancing weight on a driveshaft that I made about 1mm out (and it works perfectly now, up to 200km/hr ) The other hose clamp is holding my broken t-case mount right now, and hasnt failed me on any of my backyard excursions yet, though I will fix it properly before I put it on the road.
Posted 01 March 2005 - 06:48 AM
Posted 04 March 2005 - 12:18 PM
I've been thinking about this aswell, and thought a cleavis pin would work if it was an approx. O.D. as the roll pin. Some thing like this:
I think this is a cool solution. Easy to use and elegant.
Posted 04 March 2005 - 02:03 PM
i've never had any problem removing them, or installing them =/
Posted 04 March 2005 - 07:41 PM
they move around on those splines enough with the pin in there, and its a tight fit.
A tight fit in the cv cup yes, but the hole through the stub axle is much bigger than the roll pin. So the spline can slide around regardless.
I am actually drilling out the pin holes on a spare axle right now so they'll fit the 1/4" clevis pins I got at Truevalue. I think it'll work good, but if doesn't you guys will be the first to know:drunk:
Posted 04 March 2005 - 11:57 PM
Posted 05 March 2005 - 08:32 AM
Hate to burst your bubble.... but I'd hate even more to see you stranded.
Posted 05 March 2005 - 03:39 PM
Posted 05 March 2005 - 05:20 PM
Just an idea?
Posted 05 March 2005 - 09:12 PM
Believe me, I was working I was working the suspension past its limits and had no problems. Time will tell of course, but I think it's fine.
Installing and removing axles took under 5 minutes, but even then it was a pain to unbend the cotters. If I can make the clevis pin work, installing should be like 2-3 min, and I prolly won't even hafta get under the car to pull the axle.
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