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[updated 9-4] clunk when accellerating
Posted 28 August 2003 - 11:06 AM
My wagon has this clunk that feels rear-endish.. it'll usually do it's thing when i accellerate after shifting up. If I accellerate gently, it won't. I can put the clutch in and not shift, and reproduce it by letting the clutch up quickly enough.. it sounds like something in the drivetrain is catching up some slack somewhere? U-joints maybe?
Posted 28 August 2003 - 01:52 PM
Posted 28 August 2003 - 02:42 PM
I would crwl under neath and try turning the driveaxle , if there is any slack in the twist @ the CV joint more than not that CV is bad.There should be no p[lay in the joint when twisting it .
Posted 29 August 2003 - 11:06 AM
Posted 29 August 2003 - 11:14 AM
Inside joke, sorry guys.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 03:21 AM
They have a tendency to clunk under hard shifting. Solution is to either shift nicely all the time, or get a differential locking kit from Whiteline.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 04:58 AM
(i.e. U joint, rear CV rear DOJ, diff, mustache bar bushing, et al)
There would have to be power delivered to the rear wheels, is this not correct?
You make no mention of having it in 4 wd when this happens and 86 wagons did not have FTAWD.
So either it's coming from the front and being transmitted to the body making it feel "rear endish" or....... a consequence of having the rear suspension compressed as the car accelerates.
I just want to bark up the correct conifer thats all.
Sorry for the intrusion.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 12:40 PM
Hi Skip.. this car has the RX full time 4WD D/R tranny so no 2WD.. thanks though..
I'm going to check it out this weekend and I'll probably be back in here with an update or more questions
Posted 30 August 2003 - 02:28 PM
I have '88 turbo s/w f/t 4wd. Klunk from rear on hard accell. after driveline unloaded. Replaced axles. u-joints good. Diff mount appears ok as well as "moustache" bracket bushings. Removed arms-all bushings still good thoughthey show rust from rubbing!?
Feels like excessive differential slop as alluded to in last post. Would hate to think only cure is replacement but...
Still looking at answers, will post as I try different things. Local Subaru shop says they have never been able to fix one yet!? : (
Thanks for a great site! JEFF
Posted 05 September 2003 - 01:12 AM
sway bars are tight.
shocks/struts and springs didn't have any wiggle.
wiggled the tires and got some. seems that the wiggle includes the rotors and hubs too.. wheel bearings all round? aargh.
driveshaft had a 1/4 inch play when turning it back and forth before the rear wheels responded. sounded kind of clunky.
so should i just replace all wheel bearings and suspension bushings and u-joints? chase it away by throwing parts and money at it? hehe
if i'm going to convert to 5 bolt, this be a good time for it, me thinks.
Posted 05 September 2003 - 11:38 AM
1/4" play from driveshaft to wheel turn isn't bad.
Did you check the trany mounts?
Posted 05 September 2003 - 12:08 PM
tranny mounts have over 200k on them. I haven't checked them or the motor mounts.. how does one check those anyway? i don't think i could wiggle the engine/tranny without shaking the whole car with them ..just jack up the trans a little and remove the crossmember, eyeball the mounts? i can do that.
anyplace make poly motor/trans mounts for EA82?
Posted 05 September 2003 - 12:25 PM
The motor mounts are harder to tell, but if they're real bad you can grab the motor and shake or move it by hand.
My trany mount was so bad that the trany would hop around under a hard corner. Moved so much that it broke the 4wd sensor and started to leak gear oil!
Posted 07 September 2003 - 08:45 AM
Thanks for your Emails, though. Definitely try Brian at Subaruwrxparts.com ... He definitely may be of help!
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