The car is an 89 GL Tubo AWD A/T.
Except for front driver side, power windows ain't happening at the drivers switch. All of the motors test good off an independent power source, and are known good.
Parts that have been subsituted and believed to be good include fusible link, fuse, breaker unit, power relay unit, control unit, master switch and individual window switches.
Power is present at the relay, so breaker and relay are assumed to be good.
This would naturally point to the control unit, but I did swap it out with another unit , and 2 bad ones in a row seem kinda unlikely.
Any ideas anyone?
thanks, John
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Guest Message by DevFuse
power window circuit
Started by
thealleyboy
, Mar 01 2005 10:00 PM
5 replies to this topic
#2
MilesFox
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- Members
- 9,820 posts
Catch this Fox!
- Madison/Milwaukee, WI
Posted 02 March 2005 - 01:52 AM
try checking the wiring in the door itself, between the window harness and the switch itself. so you know the swithc and motors are good
i find that if any of the doors are unplugged from the body harness, none of the windows will work. if one switch on one door is disconnected then that window wont work from the master switch.
seeing that you have only one window not working i would check for continuity from the switch plug in to the body plug in if you havent already
i find that if any of the doors are unplugged from the body harness, none of the windows will work. if one switch on one door is disconnected then that window wont work from the master switch.
seeing that you have only one window not working i would check for continuity from the switch plug in to the body plug in if you havent already
#3
thealleyboy
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- Members
- 2,079 posts
Subaru Derelict
- Bexley, OH
Posted 02 March 2005 - 02:46 PM
try checking the wiring in the door itself, between the window harness and the switch itself. so you know the swithc and motors are good
i find that if any of the doors are unplugged from the body harness, none of the windows will work. if one switch on one door is disconnected then that window wont work from the master switch.
seeing that you have only one window not working i would check for continuity from the switch plug in to the body plug in if you havent already
Good call. I have checked each motor with a power supply, and also swapped out switches, but haven't checked the wiring between components yet.
John
#4
Sydfloyd44
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- Members
- 153 posts
USMB is life!
- Central PA
Posted 02 March 2005 - 07:34 PM
Open the drivers door and check the wiring harness near the hinges. We have seen those wires get severed, become disconnected, pinched, etc. COUNTLESS times. Rest assured, it is hard to work in there, but this is a common culprit of wiring woes.You should be able to pull back the casing enough to get a peek in there. Be sure to check as far as you can in both directions. If you don't visually see anything, try slowly moving the wires with your right hand as you hold one of the window switchs in the up/down position. Be patient!
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#5
thealleyboy
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- Members
- 2,079 posts
Subaru Derelict
- Bexley, OH
Posted 03 March 2005 - 09:31 AM
I've come to the same conclusion, though I haven't tested the wires individually. The other side of the circuit runs thru the control unit, which I have all but ruled out.
This would also support Fox's theory about the other windows being out of commission. Strange that they would design the circuit this way. Seems like it would be a safety hazard in an emergency situation if all the windows would be disabled if there was only a problem with one of them.
Hopefully, I'll have this mystery solved later tonite.
John
This would also support Fox's theory about the other windows being out of commission. Strange that they would design the circuit this way. Seems like it would be a safety hazard in an emergency situation if all the windows would be disabled if there was only a problem with one of them.
Hopefully, I'll have this mystery solved later tonite.
John
#6
thealleyboy
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- Members
- 2,079 posts
Subaru Derelict
- Bexley, OH
Posted 04 March 2005 - 08:52 AM
Turned out to be a combination of things...
Bad master switch, bad door switch, weak motor.
All the wiring had continuity, and the control unit & relay turned out to be good.
The motor really threw me since it seemed to work ok off an independent power supply. However, when tied into the cars wiring, it became obvious that the motor was hosed. Substituting another one verified it immediately.
Thanks for all the input guys
John
Bad master switch, bad door switch, weak motor.
All the wiring had continuity, and the control unit & relay turned out to be good.
The motor really threw me since it seemed to work ok off an independent power supply. However, when tied into the cars wiring, it became obvious that the motor was hosed. Substituting another one verified it immediately.
Thanks for all the input guys
John
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